Adding 3rd zone /wiring question/ System 2000

KyleO

So I'm adding a 3rd zone and have wired the Nest thermostat using 18/3. I could swear I have it right, Pics attached, but it keeps saying I don't have power to the thermostat. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance. 
R on T3 for power to trigger the zone, C on A2 for common (power to the thermostat), and W on A1. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious here. 

HVACNUT

Switch the white and red at the Manager. A1 is 24v power and must go to R on the thermostat. 

KyleO

Thanks HVACNUT, that seemed to solve the Nest issue. But even when I set the temperature above the current temp it doesn't kick the circulator on to actually pump hot water to the radiators. Any idea there? The circulator light goes on but it ain't pumping. Thanks again 

KyleO

Pic attached. The zone valve does open, that's confirmed. 

KyleO

Jamie Hall

Make sure I have this right here. You kick up the Nest and the zone valve opens, but the circulator doesn't pump? Zone valve end switch connected? Getting power?

HVACNUT

Jamie Hall said:

Make sure I have this right here. You kick up the Nest and the zone valve opens, but the circulator doesn't pump? Zone valve end switch connected? Getting power?

Normally that would be the direction to go. Typically, unless otherwise specified, EK uses 2 wire zone valves. There is a relay to energize the circulator. No need for the zone valve to fully open first, as the boiler has a built in bypass.

@KyleO, try the other heat zones. If they're operating normally then I'd say the new zone is air bound or there's a valve off.
If you dumped the whole system to install the new zone, everything might need to be purged. This would be a good time to check the Hy-Vent as well.

KyleO

HVACNUT said:

Jamie Hall said:

Make sure I have this right here. You kick up the Nest and the zone valve opens, but the circulator doesn't pump? Zone valve end switch connected? Getting power?

Normally that would be the direction to go. Typically, unless otherwise specified, EK uses 2 wire zone valves. There is a relay to energize the circulator. No need for the zone valve to fully open first, as the boiler has a built in bypass.

@KyleO, try the other heat zones. If they're operating normally then I'd say the new zone is air bound or there's a valve off.
If you dumped the whole system to install the new zone, everything might need to be purged. This would be a good time to check the Hy-Vent as well.

Thanks again @HVAC@HVACNUT
The other zones work fine. I have power. Yes my zone valves use 2 wire and all are hooked up correctly. The 3rd zone valve does open when the boiler heats up and calls the circulator. But the output doesn't come. You're right the zone valve doesn't open right away until it's hot, which is quick. 
I did NOT dump the whole system to hook up the 3rd zone, as I had shut offs for the output and the return, so I cut the caps, soldered on the new pipe and then opened up the shut off valves. I don't have any radiator vents in the whole house. I did slightly open the main vent valve (pictured). Is that the Hy-Vent you referred to? 
How do I fix being "air bound"? 
Thanks again 

HVACNUT

Turn off power.
Manually open the zone 3 zone valve and lock it open.
Make sure the boiler feed valve is open. 
Close the ball valve on the return. It might be behind the Manager. Connect a hose to the drain valve on the return. Put the other end into a bucket or drain.
Open the drain valve and purge until its steady water. 
Close the drain valve. 
Open the ball valve. 
Release the lever on the zone valve so it closes.
Turn power back on and see what you've got.

Roger

Great suggestion, @HVACNUT - there has to be a reason that there is no flow through that particular zone and being air bound would be a highly likely cause based on @KyleO ‘s description so far. 

For reference, when the circulator light is on, there is line voltage power to the burner and the circulator (through the burner/circulator relay). This means that the burner cannot fire unless there is power on to the circulator at the same time. 

The burner light indicates that T-T is closed on the primary control. 

Best, 
Roger

KyleO

OK, sorry for the delay, got tied up on another job.
I followed @HVACNUT suggestions, got a steady flow, booted back up, turned on thermostat, boiler heated, circulator light turned on, zone 3 light turned on, zone valve opened, but I'm not getting heated water to actually pump thru the new lines.
Other zones work just fine still. 
Help! What's next oh gurus of heat? Thanks guys

HVACNUT

Is this loop buried in a slab or crawlspace? 
If your purging correctly and getting good flow, it should be circulating. 
Does the zone split into 2 or more branches?
All valves are definitely open?

Robert O'Brien

KyleO said:

OK, sorry for the delay, got tied up on another job.
I followed @HVACNUT suggestions, got a steady flow, booted back up, turned on thermostat, boiler heated, circulator light turned on, zone 3 light turned on, zone valve opened, but I'm not getting heated water to actually pump thru the new lines.
Other zones work just fine still. 
Help! What's next oh gurus of heat? Thanks guys

What does the radiation of this new zone consist of? Head loss?

KyleO

HVACNUT said:

Is this loop buried in a slab or crawlspace? 
If your purging correctly and getting good flow, it should be circulating. 
Does the zone split into 2 or more branches?
All valves are definitely open?

Hey thanks again @HVACNUT, the loop is in the basement run in the walls. I didn't put it in the slab and it's all accessible.
When I did the purge, I got lots of air then good flow, ran about 3 gallons into a bucket. 
I know the zone valve works, during the purge, because when the drain valve was open (with the ball valve closed), the only way water would come out was when I had the zone valve manually open (held with my finger).
The only other valve is the ball valve above the zone valve and that's definitely open (same validation during the purge).

Im stumped... 

HVACNUT

3 gallons is nothing. Purge like it owes you money. Let it flow and try to maintain 12 psi while doing it. You should be able to manually operate the automatic water feed valve. Don't go over 20 psi and 30 psi will blow the relief valve. 
Turn down the temp or disconnect one thermostat wire from the water heater so its doesn't operate while purging.

KyleO

OK will do. I turned off the power on the last purge so it wasn't hot. Pressure is around 15psi. I'll report back, going to get a longer hose so I can avoid using a bucket and go into a drain.... Thanks again 

KyleO

That did the trick, I got heat (in the summer)! Increasing the pressure with the water feed valve and running it for 15 minutes or so did the trick. Thank you so much @HVACNUT I owe you a 6 pack!