Looking to convert compression tank

mario44222

Hi All,

It seems that my compression tank started to leak and in search of correcting the problem. The current compression tank is mounted in the ceiling and the size of it is 33" length and about 12" in diameter. I'm assuming it is a 15 gallon tank from what I've researched. It's currently connected with a airtrol fitting (ATF-12) which is then piped to that back of the boiler off of a Y type of connector.




I'm assuming I can replace the tank with a HFT-60 or Extrol EX-60, but wondering if any other fittings would be required?

Thank you!

neilc

post another picture of your Y, the boiler, compression tank, and circ, all in one shot if you can,
your tank acts as air separation when piped correctly,
coming off that Y, I have my doubts,

if you are to replace it with an expansion tank, you would add air separation and an auto vent,
and likely repipe some details so as to "pump away",

let's see the general picture

Ctoilman

What size house? I'm thinking all you need is a 4.4 gallon, #30, tank.  Hook new tank in place of old one. 

JUGHNE

Have you had any other problems before the leaking of the tank?
Such as having to bleed air bound radiators or the tank water logging?

mario44222

Here are some more pictures (pretty difficult to get it in 1 shot):








I removed the drain from the tank, but the tank is leaking on both sides hence the replacement.

From the Y middle copper pipe goes to the ATF-12 to the compression tank.

mario44222

The house is about 1,656 sq ft, basement, main and 2nd floor. There are cast iron radiators on the main and 2nd floor.

mario44222

JUGHNE said:

Have you had any other problems before the leaking of the tank?
Such as having to bleed air bound radiators or the tank water logging?

Not really, every few years would have to bleed the radiators

JUGHNE

Considering the age of the boiler and the asbestos looking insulation on the piping,
I would consider just replacing the compression tank, like for like.
Reuse the ATF 12, make sure the isolation valve between the system and tank works.
There is probably a form of air scoop built into the Wye fitting.

Start considering the cost for a new system...boiler...pump...exp tank... etc.
Your boiler is good until it leaks.

Someone here recently replaced their compression tank. They are still available.

mario44222

JUGHNE said:

Considering the age of the boiler and the asbestos looking insulation on the piping,
I would consider just replacing the compression tank, like for like.
Reuse the ATF 12, make sure the isolation valve between the system and tank works.
There is probably a form of air scoop built into the Wye fitting.

Start considering the cost for a new system...boiler...pump...exp tank... etc.
Your boiler is good until it leaks.

Someone here recently replaced their compression tank. They are still available.

I figured the same, I did find a B&G (#116029) which is a 15 gallon tank. I'd figured would have been more economical to go with a EX60 tank.

I did see this article: https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/181521/upgrading-and-mounting-larger-expansion-tank and figured I could just get away with a #60 sized tank without anything special.

STEVEusaPA

Has anyone taken that flue pipe off in the last 50 years? Looks like some roll out at the hood.

mario44222

STEVEusaPA said:

Has anyone taken that flue pipe off in the last 50 years? Looks like some roll out at the hood.

It was recently cleaned before the start of winter last year along with the whole chimney path

Steamhead

JUGHNE said:

Considering the age of the boiler and the asbestos looking insulation on the piping,
I would consider just replacing the compression tank, like for like.
Reuse the ATF 12, make sure the isolation valve between the system and tank works.
There is probably a form of air scoop built into the Wye fitting.

Start considering the cost for a new system...boiler...pump...exp tank... etc.
Your boiler is good until it leaks.

Someone here recently replaced their compression tank. They are still available.

That's what I'd do. With all that asbestos, any major changes would require abatement which does not come cheap. And, when the boiler is replaced you can continue to use that tank and Airtrol fitting, with a newer air separator.

Those older American-Standard boilers are built like tanks. They were popular in the Baltimore area and I've never seen one leak, unless it dry-fired. The gas train and high limit are OEM-specific, but can be retrofitted using standard parts. Replacing them is usually done to upgrade, rather than because they failed.

mario44222

Do you think the best bet then is to get a replacement tank such as:

and reconnect the ATF-12 fitting on it? Do I still need to mount it in the ceiling where the old one was?

Steamhead

Yes. Just put it where the old one is and you should be good to go.

Also, I'm a bit worried about the surface-mounted aquastat mounted on the piping. It could fail to operate if the circulator failed, since overheated water from the boiler might not reach it. I'm guessing the original gas valve, which included the high limit, failed and was replaced. A better solution would be to use a remote-bulb aquastat which would mount on the boiler's jacket. This would require replacing the well that the aquastat probe would go in, to match the new unit. The result would be a control that sensed the water in the boiler rather than the pipes, which is much safer. Just my 2 cents.

JUGHNE

Just to clarify, the compression tank system, which you have, wants all the air in the system to go into the tank.
That means no auto air vents which would remove the air and leave your tank water logged because the air did not get up there.

The other tank you are considering is a bladder type tank which will hold no air. The air then must be removed by auto air vents which you would have to add to your piping.

mario44222

JUGHNE said:

Just to clarify, the compression tank system, which you have, wants all the air in the system to go into the tank.
That means no auto air vents which would remove the air and leave your tank water logged because the air did not get up there.

The other tank you are considering is a bladder type tank which will hold no air. The air then must be removed by auto air vents which you would have to add to your piping.

Meaning that option #1 would be get the a compression tank like I mentioned earlier and reconnect the ATF-12 fitting on it
or option #2 get a Extrol #60 and do something like this with an autovent?

Example:

EBEBRATT-Ed

@mario44222

Yes you can do that

WMno57

I replaced my compression tank at the start of this heating season with a new compression tank from Quality Tanks Inc in Clinton, Wisconsin.

They have a 12 x 30 and a 12 x 36. Part numbers DL1230-15 and DL1236-18. They also make tanks with extra ports for a sight glass (just put an S on the end of the part number).

http://www.qualitytanksinc.com/Expansion-Tanks.html

I highly recommend them. A quality product at a reasonable price. They are very nice to deal with. You can call them direct.

The thread from my tank adventure:
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/181774/replacing-ceiling-mounted-thrush-compression-tank