Weil-McLain EGH secondary LWCO location piping.

Robert O'Connor_12

I'm going to be replacing an EGH-95 I installed over 25 years ago in a church. My question is the 2nd LWCO location and piping required by the insurance carrier & NJBPVC. I've been at this a while, and have done this before. It's just it always seems to be a problem. In the past I've replaced the probe style with a probe style with the manual reset. So adding the 2nd one must be higher than the factory probe location. This not only raises the normal water line which isn't very fuel friendly. But also promotes wetter steam. In this application I'm not concerned about the wet steam for I have ample rise and oversized header. The way I've been doing it is adding it in between the gauge glass tapping's. But you need to roll it up slightly and modify the gauge glass (making it smaller). I'm replacing the exiting Watchman condensate pump so connecting to the "return" isn't an option. Anyone have a better way of introducing the 2nd LWCO?
Also, This boiler is shoehorned into a small pit directly next to another EGH handling the other parts of the church so right side location is practically out of the question. They're just too close together. Thanks!

Robert O'Connor NJ

EzzyT

Put the manual reset on the right end section of the boiler on the H 1/2” tapping with a 1/2” probe .

EBEBRATT-Ed

I don't know the EGH tappings so maybe this is stupid. What can't you come out of the bottom of the boiler or any tapping below the water line and make a 1" pipe tree. Tie the other end of the 1" into a tapping on top of the boiler or the header. Hydrolevel makes a tee type fitting you could pipe it in at any height you wan't in the 1" Leave a valve for blow down.

Not ideal as it can sludge up if not cleaned/checked but it will work. You could mount the manual reset in the boiler as the last line of defense and the auto reset in the 1" pipe a bit higher.

You could also put a #67 with a manual reset on the gauge glass tappings

Steamhead

This is easier than it sounds. I was just at a job earlier where we did this. On page 10 of the boiler's manual, there is a tapping list:

https://www.weil-mclain.com/sites/default/files/field-file/EGH Boiler Manual.pdf

which shows try-cock tappings (J) next to the sight glass. These are listed as 3/8" but, at least on older EGH boilers, are actually tapped 1/2" or 3/4" and you're expected to bush them down. Install your primary LWCO probe in the lower J tapping, which is slightly higher than the C tapping we normally use. You may need to use a remote probe here since clearances are tight. Then put your secondary LWCO probe in the C tapping, and you're done.

ethicalpaul

Personally I wouldn't worry about the additional fuel required to heat a few gallons to the boiling point from whatever the standby temp is at that time. That's the only extra fuel it will need. Once it's steaming, there is no additional fuel required.

ScottSecor

I would also recommend clicking on Steamhead's link to the EG/EGH manual and see page 20. 1" tappings are your friend on the EGH series (don't believe they come on the smaller EG series).

Robert O'Connor_12

Thanks for the replies gents!
This EGH-95 doesn’t have the (LEFT SIDE) J (tri-cock) tapping even tapped. The manufacturer also doesn’t show a plugged tapping slightly lower and to the right of the C tapping. Is that what you (steam head) meant? Also the smallest probe I’m aware of is 1/2”. If the J was tapped, it would only be 3/8”.

Robert O’Connor. /NJ

Steamhead

@Robert O'Connor_12 , you might want to double-check with your supply house. I'm sure a boiler that big will be delivered knocked-down, right? Stop by and look at the actual left-side section they will be delivering to see what's what. We've used that lower J tapping for a probe on several jobs.

Robert O'Connor_12

EGH's get delivered with the block assembly in one piece. This one I got down to the basement level in one piece but then had to take it apart into 2 pieces to get it into the pit its going to reside in. EGH's are basically 2 EG's put together in the middle. So. There's 2 block assemblies. Only 2 rods holding 4, and 3 section assemblies together. 
The J tappings aren't even tapped. I believe that's a special order.

Steamhead

That may have been a recent change- all the ones we have either have plugs or probes in them.

EBEBRATT-Ed

If the boss where they tap it is their you can drill and tap it yourself. Not for the faint of heart but I have tapped Smith 28 boiler sections 1" to add an indirect water heater.

Happy warranty!!

Robert O'Connor_12

Well I ended up doing exactly what I've been doing with these and simply installing a #67 off the gauge glass tapping's. I hate the way it comes out because you must raise it and then you lose several inches of the gauge glass.
Thanks for the replies

Robert O'Connor/NJ