Need Old Weil mclain 572 steam boiler Operating Manual

mellowmaximo

Hi All,

I am in need of an operating and installation manual for my steam boiler Weil Mclain 572.  Having trouble attaching image of steam boiler.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Search the internet. It's probably so old you won't find one and it would be little help if you did. What problems are you having?

Steamhead

That boiler was made between 1956 and 1975. Post a pic if you can.

mellowmaximo

Can't seem to post a photo using my phone.  I'll try at home on a desktop. 

I wanted to check the recommended near boiler piping setup for this boiler. 

I have one steam pipe coming out from the top ofnthis boiler, but there seems to be another opening that is plugged on top.  I wanted to peek at the piping scheme suggested in the operating and installation docs to see if anything is amiss.

I'm currently dialing the system in; changed out the main and riser air vents. Waiting for a vaporstat to be delivered.

Currently boiler is cutting out at 4 psi!  I need to dial that back a lot.

I have 14 radiators, all same size.

I've been reading Dan's books.

I want to reduce my heating costs.

Jamie Hall

I guess the first question would be -- are you experiencing problems with the system now? Banging? Water surging? And if so, what?

You certainly need to dial back the pressure -- cutting out somewhere between 1.5 and 2 psi, depending mostly on what your pressure control device can do.

While an install manual is always nice to have for the minimum recommendations, the principles don't change much. Even fairly large boilers can get away with one top connection, even when there is provision for two. The real thing is to make sure that the riser you have is full size -- not reduced by a bushing -- where it leaves the boiler, and that it goes up at least 28 inches above the boiler water line (not necessarily the top of the casing) and connects at one end to a header, which should be one pipe size larger. Then you go along the header, and the steam mains take off from that -- ideally straight up, but they can be as much as 45 degrees off to one side -- then at the end the header turns down to the equalizer and then you can reduce the size of the equalizer to get to the Hartford Loop.

Or you can get fancy and use a drop header -- which can be particularly handy if you are short on headroom, or if you have two risers (much easier to do the swing joints!)

If you are not experiencing problems with the system as it stands, or if they are no worse than annoying, you may not be able to save much on fuel costs with piping revisions. That's much more a function of the boiler itself -- but even more important, the heat loss of the structure. It's that latter where, in most cases, real improvements can be made.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@mellowmaximo

Lowering the pressure is a good idea. If you not having any issues the piping is probably OK even if not ideal. I would not spend any money repiping a 50-60 year old boiler

mellowmaximo

Thank you for your responses. Super kind.

This is the boiler. One of the photos shows boiler cement on top of the boiler where I suspect is a spece for second steam connection.

I am going to move that rear control to where the 30 psi gauge is in the front so it does not share an opening with the relief valve.

mellowmaximo

Any helpful insights welcome. These photos are dated, but show the near boiler piping well. The boiler controls have brass pigtails installed at this point. I am aware of the mud line leak on the right.

Jamie Hall

Nothing wrong that I can see off hand with that piping. Kind o hard to see sizes under the insulation (!) but I'd be actually kind of surprised if it were too small -- which is the most common problem.

I'd be very much inclined to leave it alone unless you very definitely know of a problem. You'll not gain enough -- if you gained anything -- to make it worth the money and effort.

mellowmaximo

Thank you Jamie for your help. 

10-4 on the insulation.  I'll look under the hood next time I'm in the boiler room to see if the riser is reduced with a bushing.

Steamhead

Jamie Hall said:

Nothing wrong that I can see off hand with that piping. Kind o hard to see sizes under the insulation (!) but I'd be actually kind of surprised if it were too small -- which is the most common problem.

I'd be very much inclined to leave it alone unless you very definitely know of a problem. You'll not gain enough -- if you gained anything -- to make it worth the money and effort.

This. Remember, that type of boiler has a huge steam chest, so the header doesn't have to do all the work of separating water from steam.

If you're looking for better efficiency, and aren't ready for a completely new boiler, the flueways in that one can be baffled to improve heat transfer. This is NOT a DIY job, but here's one example:

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/170456/door-mount-disaster-or-ohhhhh-this-is-just-wrong

JUGHNE

If you really want to turn some wrenches on that old girl, you might consider opening the wet returns and installing some isolation valves and flush ports for cleanout.
The piping on those look to be quite original and could be full of sludge giving you slow return.
That would be proactive and ready in the event you get a boiler replacement.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Agree with the above posts. Keep it running. The steam supply and header are fine for that boiler. The old timers could actually read and pipe things correctly. Keep maintaining it and maybe do some return & boiler flushing in the summer.

The new ones don't seem to last 20 years never mined 50-60 years. We see too many on here that don't make 10 years