"New" house in New York has old radiators. Considering refinishing (sandblasting? painting?)
it seems sandblasting is the true course of action. i called a few local places. one charged $20/fin, another $50+ but had no solutions to removal and transport.
our painter also told us he'd sand and paint them but i doubt he'd take all the proper precautions if lead is present.
at any rate, hoping to spark a discussion here. thanks!
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Here is a discussion that started back in May 2020 that seemed to have a happy ending. https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/180002/stripping-paint-from-cast-iron-radiators-using-a-lye-bath
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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agree, they look nice but i'm in NO way comfortable attempting that process.EdTheHeaterMan said:Here is a discussion that started back in May 2020 that seemed to have a happy ending. https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/180002/stripping-paint-from-cast-iron-radiators-using-a-lye-bath
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Have you tested the paint for lead?Burnham IN5PVNI Boiler, Single Pipe with 290 EDR
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no. as of now it's just an assumption.acwagner said:Have you tested the paint for lead?
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You can buy lead testing kits at a hardware or home center. They're little swabs that you smear on the suspected surface. That might help understand the extent of the problem.Burnham IN5PVNI Boiler, Single Pipe with 290 EDR
18 Ounce per Square Inch Gauge
Time Delay Relay in Series with Thermostat
Operating Pressure 0.3-0.5 Ounce per Square Inch1 -
Where are you located? $20/fin is outrageous, at least in my area. Try calling a powdercoating place (ask for "blast only", as opposed to blast and powdercoat), or failing that any sort of heavy truck or farm equipment repair place. If that doesn't work, an auto body shop might be able to point you to a sandblasting place.
Removal, transport, and reinstallation is a whole 'nother issue.0 -
thanks - just outside NYC.TomTA said:Where are you located? $20/fin is outrageous, at least in my area. Try calling a powdercoating place (ask for "blast only", as opposed to blast and powdercoat), or failing that any sort of heavy truck or farm equipment repair place. If that doesn't work, an auto body shop might be able to point you to a sandblasting place.
Removal, transport, and reinstallation is a whole 'nother issue.0 -
Many years ago when I was restoring an 1810 town house in Philadelphia we removed a had some sandblasted and then painted by a local auto body (different people) --- it was a lot of work. Later when doing a stone victorian in Chestnut Hill PA there was no way I was going through removing and reinstalling heavy radiators -- just getting them disconnected without damage would have been difficult. That project was large and I had people blasting other parts of the project .... they blasted the radiators in place and I had them sprayed. Back then they used shells.
Today they blast with both dry ice and baking soda ... I had a whole project soda blasted after a fire in 2012. Soda blasting is common when cleaning old beams for barn projects. It's actually easier to find blasting companies today as they have truck based franchised people around -- they don't use sand anymore.
Stripping them with chemicals depends on how thick -- it's messy and hard to get into the tight spots to clean off.
I would look for someone who would do them in place0 -
Many times I've removed all radiators for sandblasting and paint in a renovation. Since I live in a major city, there were 2 places to have it done. Now there is one place that does it. The owner or GC is responsible for delivery and pickup. The paint used is a high temp paint available in a dozen colors. Powder coating is not used anymore due to hazards in the workplace. Costs were "reasonable", about $300 per radiator0
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Paul Pollets said:Many times I've removed all radiators for sandblasting and paint in a renovation. Since I live in a major city, there were 2 places to have it done. Now there is one place that does it. The owner or GC is responsible for delivery and pickup. The paint used is a high temp paint available in a dozen colors. Powder coating is not used anymore due to hazards in the workplace. Costs were "reasonable", about $300 per radiator
I’ve been getting more estimates:Sections
Cost
Radiator
27
700.00 each (3)
Radiator
8
240.00
Radiator
17
510.00
Radiator
23
600.00
Radiator
15
450.00 each (2)
Radiator
20
585.00
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Some photos of the rads
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SuperTech said:Those radiators look pretty nice to me. Maybe I am missing something. I would just repaint them. I've seen much worse than that. You are lucky to have a home with cast iron radiators. They are a wonderful way to heat the house.
Given we have an infant at home we’re exploring the options we have.
It seems the options are:
1. sandblast
2. paint again and cover
3. replace with similar radiators
I’d prefer to go down route 1 but thus far I’ve found it to be prohibitively expensive - upwards of $10k+ including transport.
On #3, if I wanted to scour various sources for replacements do they need to be the EXACT same size? Or is close enough ok (for example replacing a 5 foot radiator with 4.5 feet).
Additional insights appreciated!0 -
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I was gonna say, I wish mine looked that good
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Grallert said:Those radiators appear to have been refinished recently. Except for the second one. I would be comfortable with a quick lead test on the others and an over paint.
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So it didn't show lead and now you assume they all have lead? I'm confused
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ethicalpaul said:So it didn't show lead and now you assume they all have lead? I'm confused
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Ok, the top layer had lead? Or you saw lead where a chip went down past the top layer?
either way I’d just paint a good quality interior paint over whatever is on there, hand-scraping off any loose stuff. The kid’s not going to be sitting there gnawing on the radiators.Every house built before 78 or whenever has lead paint, it’s just a fact. Keeping it covered and not hitting it with a power sander is a fine way to live with itNJ Steam Homeowner.
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All but one look great. The one that needs a good coat of paint I vote to hand scrap and repaint. That is what I did with my downstairs powder room & kitchen rads. The smallest I was able to get outside to wash really good and painted in the driveway. The larger one I built a room around using plastic and used an old window fan to vent. I didn't have to scrap either one of them much at all, just cleaned really well.
Now this maybe bad advice but I think you're over thinking the lead risk. The past 10 years I've lived in this house I have done a lot of work with stripping paint off windows and trim and demo work in general. Everyone in the house has had our blood lead levels tested at least once or more times. My blood level in December of 18' was .8 ug/dl, my sons was <.5 I also work with a lot of brass where I work and grew up in older homes, think late 19th century Victorians.
Pretty much if the paint is falling off the walls, you don't ever clean, and you let your toddler(s) crawl/walk freely with no oversight while neglecting their nutrition yes you will have a problem. And that right there is a biggest key. Proper nutrition! Lots of calcium for growing bones. This helps prevent their bones from becoming laced with lead for decades when they do have exposure, which they will naturally through any environment. And the insidious thing about lead is that the body will confuse it for other nutrients and readily absorb it if starving.
Helps to explain why lead poisoning is so rampant in the inner cities.
Edit: Just remembered you said you're by NYC, maybe check into the legalities first. In Ohio homeowners can do their own lead and even asbestos removal last I checked. But I've heard NY is almost as bad as CA when it comes to that.
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Typo. DID not didn’t. As they’re all painted similarity I assume if one has it they all do.oldradiator said:ethicalpaul said:So it didn't show lead and now you assume they all have lead? I'm confused
You could check them all. Or have you done that? Clearly the flaking one needs to be refinished if for no other reason than it looks like hell. As mentioned simply knocking off the loose paint and recoating will suffice. It is very possible to have them stripped and refinished to what ever color you like but it does get expensive. If you do that make sure you protect the radiator spuds and label each one so as to put them back in the same location..Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager,teacher and dog walker3 -
Is there a special primer and paint that’s best for these? They don’t get super hot on account of them being hot water.0
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There's been a lot of discussion around radiator paint but I think it comes down to any high quality interior latex primer and paint.Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager,teacher and dog walker0
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