Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Oil leak after Tune-up

Nick_22
Nick_22 Member Posts: 10
Some guy came over for quick Filter and Nozzle change. Now have oil leak i never had before. Metal Panel seems to be soaked now from the inside and there is some dripping from burner   
Any ideas? Wrong nozzle / Not installed correctly?


Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,170
    Somewhere in there your guy didn't get something put together right. Not tightened enough, missing gasket, God forbid cross- threaded...

    Did he also neglect to do a combustion test? That's not optional after a nozzle change...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Nick_22SuperTech
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,796
    Oh boy- several problems here besides the leak.

    First off, the oil delay valve has been disconnected. Whoever did that should not be in the business. If it was malfunctioning, it needs to be replaced.

    Second, the primary control (gray box with reset button) looks like it has a 45-second lockout time. This no longer meets Code, which requires a 15-second or shorter lockout time.

    You need a real service company, @Nick_22 . Where are you located?

    Also, is this a Peerless JO or TW series boiler?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Nick_22
    Nick_22 Member Posts: 10
    Jamie - Yes, that's what I suspect - something's loose. He did the combustion test but still not calling him back.
  • Nick_22
    Nick_22 Member Posts: 10
    Steamhead - Oil delay valve...good to know thank you. Got my neighbor's burner guy coming tomorrow. I'll point that out also.
    Primary Control - I replaced that just maybe 2-3 yrs ago. Maybe OK in CT?...I'll ask the guy tomorrow.
    Yes, Peerless "Super Section Steam Boiler". Hard to tell the Boiler number ( JOT - 4 ) but it's definitively old. Folks guess 40 yrs.
    One day I'll pull this all out, super insulate the house and replace with mini-splits particularly since we don't have A/C....but every year it ends up being "next year"
    :)
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,455
    Could be he forgot to tighten the nozzle or the wrong nozzle
    STEVEusaPA
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 281
    Cracked flare on jet line. Get a new Beckett chassis, update all the burner all at once.
    STEVEusaPAJellis
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
    edited January 2021
    BDR529 said:

    Cracked flare on jet line. Get a new Beckett chassis, update all the burner all at once.

    That's a bold leap. I see no evidence of a cracked flare, nor the reason to immediately replace the entire burner.
    I do see a good case for replacing the boiler, starting with some lazy tech who removed the front panel and didn't use a rope gasket and schmeared hi temp silly-cone.
    steve
    Nick_22
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 281
    #1 Nasty brown stain around chassis and jet line. Stain is not under the burner but being flung by fan.
    #2 Peerless ECT, Robust castings. Maybe a fire box too.
    #3 Doing a chassis is the most bang for your buck.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,725
    edited January 2021
    If the problem started just after a nozzle/filter change, Is it common sense to replace the burner chassis? Then by that logic, I assume that you have replaced the engine in your automobile after the last oil change when you saw an oil stain on your engine block or oil pan. And who would dare drive a car with visible Bondo patches and primer on a fender?

    I love the logic here!

    Are you the guys that jacked up their gas cap to slide a new car under it?

    Remember that some of the people who post herein do not have access to the tools and parts at our cost, and your simple suggestions cost real money at retail prices for many.

    I have used this powder to dry up oil stains similar to that.
    Put an ounce or two in the palm of your hand and blow the powder on the stain. On the pump, on the filter, anywhere the unknown source leaves a stain. Once the stain is dry you can watch the dry powder and see what part of the dry powder gets wet first. That is the way I find the source of elusive, hidden leaks.

    But, by all means, recommend a new expensive part or repair based on a photograph. Love the logic here!

    Any other suggestions that make sense?

    Respectfully submitted
    Mr. Ed
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
    BDR529Nick_22
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,796
    Nick_22 said:

    .......One day I'll pull this all out, super insulate the house and replace with mini-splits particularly since we don't have A/C....but every year it ends up being "next year" :)

    That would be a bad move. The house would never be as comfortable if all you're using is mini-splits. You want to keep the radiator system for that reason. Nothing wrong with beefing up your insulation though.

    Is natural gas available in your area?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    SuperTech
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,506
    BDR529 said:

    #1 Nasty brown stain around chassis and jet line. Stain is not under the burner but being flung by fan.
    #2 Peerless ECT, Robust castings. Maybe a fire box too.
    #3 Doing a chassis is the most bang for your buck.

    1. The brown stain could simply be related to disconnect the oil valve, or just a sloppy tech who doesn't wipe anything off. Or didn't fully tighten the nut when it first fired. Or it could be old and from back pressure, especially since the OP stated it wasn't cleaned, just tune up.
    2. Based on....x-ray vision? I do see signs of back pressure, maybe not properly cleaned, maybe a new chamber.
    3. Disagree. Cheapest/best bang for the buck would be to have it properly tuned up, and running properly. Pre/post purge, new primary.

    A competent tech will go over everything and find what's probably a simpler solution. Could be cracked end cone, air tube, but you need boots on the ground, right?
    steve
    BDR529EdTheHeaterMan
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,170
    Agree with @STEVEusaPA here -- though I would still check for a missing gasket, insufficiently torqued (or overtorqued) fitting, cross threading.

    And in a sort of echo of @EdTheHeaterMan 's comment -- indeed we do all need to remember that not all of us have wholesale access to things, nor can do various jobs ourselves -- and not all of us have much money to play with. A solution which works and does the job, although perhaps not the best or optimum solution, may not be what is needed (it does have to work, though!).
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 281
    edited January 2021
    Somebody has awful analogies. Could this be someones account on here and they got ruffled feathers, Hmmm..

    A Becket chassis is not an entire burner. Should not have to mention that. You will need a tech to install.

    So, callbacks are what all the cool kids are doing. Then you would not use a chassis as an option.

    I took a stab at the ECT. Apologies to the boiler gods.

    OK, I get it now. Shot myself in the foot then hit myself on the head with a frying pan. All better now! Thanks for setting me straight this is an handy homeowner site.

    STEVEusaPA
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,796
    BDR529 said:

    Ed your analogies are awful. Got ruffled feathers because this is your account and you dropped the ball?

    That was uncalled for. There is no evidence that this was one of Ed's customers. @Erin Holohan Haskell ?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    MaxMercySTEAM DOCTORJellis
  • Erin Holohan Haskell
    Erin Holohan Haskell Member, Moderator, Administrator Posts: 2,276
    edited January 2021
    Yes, it's uncalled for. Our #1 rule is to be respectful of others. Picking fights and throwing insults around is not helpful to anyone and will get you blocked from this site.
    President
    HeatingHelp.com
    Jellis
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,725
    I believe that one should endeavor to find the cause of the problem at hand. Once the cause is identified, then remediation can be implemented. I apologize if my comments offend. I just disagree with those who suggest spending other people's money in an attempt at solving a problem that may or not resolve the issue, Especially if the suggested solution is expensive .

    As I am typing from my wheelchair, I recall the question I often asked of my technicians: "After you do/replace that expensive repair and the same thing still happens, What will you check next?"

    Many times the next thing is the problem and is much less expensive.
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
    STEAM DOCTORMaxMercyErin Holohan Haskell
  • Nick_22
    Nick_22 Member Posts: 10
    Thank you everyone! I had a different service company come out today and they fixed it:
    1. Nozzle was loose.
    2. As Steamhead pointed out the Oil delay valve was disconected. He replaced it. Everything seems to be working well although he did say the boiler is on it's last legs and that it might not make it through the season....but honestly people have been telling me that since we bought the house 15 yrs ago :)
    I just nod every time and say thanks for helping keeping it going a little longer
    BTW - I always forget to ask the techs why do Nozzles need to be replaced? They're metal - can't you just clean them? Or are they so cheap it's not worth it?
    Just curious....Thanks
    MaxMercy
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,170
    You replace them because the tiny little hole which actually squirts the oil gets worn... or a little gunky... and the flame pattern goes off. And it's a lot cheaper to replace them than try to clean them without damaging them!
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    JellisMaxMercy
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,796
    Those JO-series boilers were built like tanks. Whatever else might be said about them, they do last a long time. @Nick_22 , you never did tell us if gas is available where you live..............
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting