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DIY Wet Return
Bomba
Member Posts: 28
Hey Guys,
Was wondering if it's "alright" to have a "tee" in my wet return? Was looking to run a new wet return, and wanted to run most of it before I cut out the current. In doing so, I would run a new went return down the center of my basement, elbow into the location where the current wet return is. My question is, can I run the wet return from each main run into a "tee", and then pipe it into the boiler. I'll include a non 3D sketch of what I'm suggesting.
Thanks!
Was wondering if it's "alright" to have a "tee" in my wet return? Was looking to run a new wet return, and wanted to run most of it before I cut out the current. In doing so, I would run a new went return down the center of my basement, elbow into the location where the current wet return is. My question is, can I run the wet return from each main run into a "tee", and then pipe it into the boiler. I'll include a non 3D sketch of what I'm suggesting.
Thanks!
0
Comments
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Yes, you can do almost anything as long as the whole thing stays under the waterline.
You can also put additional Tees with 3/4" garden hose valves to make flushing it out easy.NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
as the whole thing stays under the waterline.New England SteamWorks
Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
newenglandsteamworks.com0 -
Will the Tee be under water?
IMO, that is necessary.0 -
Everything will be underwater. My water line is 32 inches. Wet return will be 12 inches (all measurements from floor)0
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So each end of main drops will have a water seal from each other?0
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I just sent you a DM0
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yes your fine0
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Hey guys. Finished the wet return and main vents. After completing I think I did this one main line wrong with the vent. Was wondering if it was adequate or if I should try to bring the vents up into the ceiling?0
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It’s not horrible. I’d see how it does in practice. Remember the vast majority of venting will occur before the condensation starts really flowing. If the vents shoot water or fail to vent the air, you may have to raise them
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Pyrobar.0
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I was always taught that the proper posotiob of the main vent is 6-12" off ends of the main right before the elbow turns down.0
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That would be better
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
I’ve come off the vertical drop in the past with my venting tree, assuming you have at least 28”.0
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@Bomba
If it works..... fine.
If you have a problem take the bushing out of that tee and put a full size 90 and a nipple where the bushing is. Go up with that 90 to get above the water. Pipe it over to the side and make the vents as high as possible0 -
The trouble with coming off the end of the main like that is that the vents are vulnerable to water hammer if it should occur, and more likely to get water in them if there is a significant condensate load, for instance on a cold start.—
Bburd0 -
If you put a elbow (maybe with a nipple between it and the main) at that end of main opening and then a horizontal 6-12" nipple you can the use another elbow and a nipple (get new vent as high up as you can) to mount the vent on. That will protect the vent from and errant slugs of water. make sure the horizontal nipple has a bit of slope so water can find it's way back to the main.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0
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