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Route PEX around wood blocking

RodHot
RodHot Member Posts: 22
in Radiant Heating
I need to route the Radiant Heat PEX around some wood floor blocking. I am concerned that the 1/2 PEX will eventually come out of the aluminum transfer plates overtime when the PEX expands and contracts. Is it advisable to use a talon where the PEX comes out and then goes back into the heat transfer plate?

See photo without talon...

and proposed talon installed...


Thank you,

Comments

  • TAG
    TAG Member Posts: 757
    have found that it stays in the groove of the extruded plates -- I would have put one in the middle where it goes over the hump. But --- your idea should be fine as long as any expansion at the edge does not make any noise. I don't think it will as I have used them and they seem to allow slip w/o binding
    Ironman
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,555
    Or, you could just cut out a notch in the blocking.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • RodHot
    RodHot Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the feedback.

    I thought about a couple notches in the blocking, but with my inspection agency that might not go over well.

    As for the Talon, it is marketed as "quiet"...
    The most affordable solution to keeping tube off the mounting surface for a quiet system.

    I thought two Talons placed next to the aluminum heat transfer plate will ensure the PEX does not come out and then start to cause noise. If you look close in the first photo you can see even the cold PEX tube will not stay in the aluminum heat transfer plate. Maybe warm the PEX would stay better, but I thought the Talon will make sure, and should not hurt anything.

    Thanks again for the feedback.
  • TAG
    TAG Member Posts: 757
    edited December 2020
    If you go on the Radiant Design and Supply site .... they have pictures where the tube is out of the groove at the end .... they do it so the plate covers more of the floor . They manufacture the plates. I have never had to do that as my heat need did not require that extra bit at each end. but the tube must stay

    Here is my latest 3/8 system using the plates -- I used those clips in a few places. They work well vs the type that hold tight to the sheathing .... this was a first with the 3/8
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,407
    edited December 2020
    I would put some sort of isolation if it touches the block so it doesn't squeak. Looks like it has some space.
    Any tube with the external EVOH barrier tends to make some noise when it expands and contracts against wood.
    No harm in pulling a few inches of tube from the plate to lessen that U bend, that is common at the ends of bays when you drill across the joist as the holes need to be in the middle 1/3 of dimensional lumber joist with near bearing points. Looks like you may have broken that guideline? :)

    The block is probably under a plywood seam, so I would not weaken it too much by notching.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,955
    I would use the 2 screw type of clip that is both more secure and has a hole that is less obstructed for the tube to slide in and the 2 screws hold it square to the tubing so it will not get cockeyed and bind that way. I would not secure it at the peak of the wood, I would leave that as a loop for the tubing to expand.
  • TAG
    TAG Member Posts: 757
    edited December 2020
    Hot Rod .... What does EVOH translate ? EDIT -- found the info.

    I have recently been using Viega PEX and it's a 4 ply ... I did not understand that some are three with the exterior being the O2 barrier. The Viega covers this and it's smooth and slick.

    EDIT -- seems that Viega counts the glue as a layer and the outer layer being a tine of the inner does not need glue

    The old Wirsbo pipe was vey slick ....
  • RodHot
    RodHot Member Posts: 22
    mattmia2 said:

    I would use the 2 screw type of clip that is both more secure and has a hole that is less obstructed for the tube to slide in and the 2 screws hold it square to the tubing so it will not get cockeyed and bind that way. I would not secure it at the peak of the wood, I would leave that as a loop for the tubing to expand.

    I assume you are talking about this type of clamp...
    https://www.siouxchief.com/products/support/supply-hangers/plastic-cts/tube-hangers/ezglide-tube-clamp



    My thoughts also with allowing the tube to expand, "away" from the wood block.
    hot_rod said:


    The block is probably under a plywood seam, so I would not weaken it too much by notching.

    Yes, this is blocking under the plywood seam in a shower, so I would rather NOT notch the block in any fashion.

    Thanks again for the feedback and ideas.

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