No Heat Upstairs, old Weil McClain.

dugthefreshest

So I've been troubleshooting for 3 days now.  Over the last couple of years I've gotten a decent understanding of the boiler, but I'm stumped. Here's what's going on. 

Pipes were knocking hard so I bleed the lines. I've done this before no problem. Now no heat upstairs. 

Tried the thermostat, didn't seem to call for heat. Tried just tying the wires together, nothing. 

Next was the zone valve which is newish.  It wasn't opening, so I opened it manually to let water through, still no heat upstairs even with confirmed hot water on both sides of the pipes.

Next was looking for a way to bleed the air out of the baseboards, but my home has 0 of the small spouts you need on the baseboard themselves. 

From another post, I raised the pressure up to 28 and bleed the lines again, with water rushing out the slowing way down and sputtering. Did this about 5x.

Seeing as I have no way of getting the air iuruos3, should I just continue what I'm doing? 

Jamie Hall

"From another post, I raised the pressure up to 28 and bleed the lines again, with water rushing out the slowing way down and sputtering. Did this about 5x."

Were you keeping the pressure up in the basement at all times? You have to.

Further, if it slows quickly -- after a quart or two -- I'd be concerned about the health of your expansion tank...

HVACNUT

That zone valve needs to be open while you purge. The others should be closed.
We know the feed valve works since you bumped up the pressure, but does it keep up automatically when purging? It should. Purge until its steady water. 
Air wasn't the original problem however since you stated the zone valve doesn't open through the thermostat. For that you need an electrical meter and maybe post some pics.

dugthefreshest

HVACNUT said:

That zone valve needs to be open while you purge. The others should be closed.
We know the feed valve works since you bumped up the pressure, but does it keep up automatically when purging? It should. Purge until its steady water. 
Air wasn't the original problem however since you stated the zone valve doesn't open through the thermostat. For that you need an electrical meter and maybe post some pics.

Do I need to keep the fees valve "open" when purging? Or should I be raising the pressure, closing the valve, and then purging? 

HVACNUT

I dont know what type you have but leave it in auto feed. You can bump it If needed but let it do the work. 

dugthefreshest

HVACNUT said:

I dont know what type you have but leave it in auto feed. You can bump it If needed but let it do the work. 

I see what you mean. If I close the valve when purging, it definitely goes back down to 0. I have the type that resembles a gold bell.  But while the boiler is running it keeps a steady 15.

dugthefreshest

HVACNUT said:

I dont know what type you have but leave it in auto feed. You can bump it If needed but let it do the work. 

So the zone valve is working properly, so is the thermostat. I have confirmed heat in 2 rooms upstairs, but only specific baseboards.

going to call a professional. thanks

HVACNUT

@dougthefreshest, let us know how you make out.

motoguy128

“Pipes were knocking hard”

what temp was the system at?  Knocking often means the water is boiling.  The relief valve should be lifting and system pressure spiking over 35psi.  

Definitely get a pro