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aNOOOO! rod...note to self

HydroNiCK
HydroNiCK Member Posts: 185
in Domestic Hot Water
The anode rod hex head on my Rheem Fury water heater is an alloy.  I tried to tack a nut onto it since I stripped it.  Bad idea.

Comments

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,119
    and if you get too deep the magnesium ones will really light you up. 
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    HydroNiCK
  • HydroNiCK
    HydroNiCK Member Posts: 185
    edited October 2020
    There was a magnesium rod in there but probably disintegrated.  I bought this 15 year old heater with the house.  After three years and my wife recently complaining the hot water was running out too fast i decided to clean it.  A lot of rusty water came out.  The expansion tank was filled with rusty sediment and shot.  I started on the anode with a breaker bar. Then added 5' black pipe cheater and recruited my father.  Then put a little Rydlyme on it and let it marinate, it seeped through the threads. I hit it with 1/2" impact wrench...and it didnt budge. After all that, the hex was stripped.  At this point it was a matter of pride.  Soo I hooked up the welder.  Needless to say it was a bad day in water heater world.  I now have a new A.O. Smith.
  • BillyO
    BillyO Member Posts: 277
    FYI, probably a disintegrated dip tube was the problem
    Larry Weingartenmattmia2Intplm.
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,564
    Hi @HydroNiCK , A trick I use with anodes is to remove them, before the heater is installed and put a few turns of teflon on the threads, then reinstall. That way, years from now when I want to check the anode, it will be pretty simple. I know life this way has far less drama, but boring can be good sometimes :p

    Yours, Larry
    Solid_Fuel_Man
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,769
    that acid probably tended to dissolve the head of the anode, probably not the thing to use for that.

    powered anodes are expensive but don't really require regular maintenance. I would replace the drain valve with a full port valve like this and a brass nipple so you can really flush it out:

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-40313W-3-4-Female-x-Hose-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-Lead-Free
  • HydroNiCK
    HydroNiCK Member Posts: 185
    I put food grade anti sieze on my new anode.
  • Solid_Fuel_Man
    Solid_Fuel_Man Member Posts: 2,646
    Wow, food grade anti seize.... I'll have to put some in the truck for occasional snacking! 

    I'm not really one to munch on anodes however. Munchos on the other hand......
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,157
    Food grade or not, don't just stick your anode in anywhere you like. You never know where some tappings have been. (Covid and all... Just saying)

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Intplm.
  • HydroNiCK
    HydroNiCK Member Posts: 185
    EdTheHeaterMan said:
    Food grade or not, don't just stick your anode in anywhere you like. You never know where some tappings have been. (Covid and all... Just saying)

    Its ok, thats why i use RectumSeal


  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,833
    Rectum, it damn near killed him.
    SuperTech
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,611
    Or install these and forget it. https://www.nilesst.com/power-anodes/
    I have them on a couple big tanks. So far, so good...
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
    mattmia2HydroNiCK

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