How to break apart old steam piping

Dairon421

Hey so the return line is leaking. The pipe size is 1 1/4 and its very old piping. I used a long pipe on my pipe wrench to give me more leverage but its not working. Any other technique you guys use?

motoguy128

1) Cast iron fittings will split apart using 2 small sledge hammers one as an anvil place on the casting seam and what it with the other.
2) Grinder - carefully grind the fitting in half.
3) Cut pipe nipple about 2-3”from fitting. Very carefully cut 4-5 notches in piece of nipple left in Fitting without knocking threads. Use pipe wrench to cause the nipple to collapse and it spins right out since it’s diameter is now smaller.
4) cut pipe, hire welder to weld back together.

STEAM DOCTOR

Dairon421 said:

Hey so the return line is leaking. The pipe size is 1 1/4 and its very old piping. I used a long pipe on my pipe wrench to give me more leverage but its not working. Any other technique you guys use?

Bigger pipe on wrench! Also try to tighten, then try to loosen. No idea why that works but it does. Think that I got that tip from someone on this site. Or any of motor guys tricks

Big Ed_4

Cast fitting would have a extra wide lip on fittings

JUGHNE

It seems best to crack or break the existing CI fittings.
I have went with the 3-5' pipe wrenches and ended up cracking the fitting or egg shaping (crushing) the pipe itself.

mattmia2

Can also cut a notch in the fitting almost down to the threads and split it with a cold chisel. Lamp wick/single strand wick is your friend when putting it back together.

retiredguy

I was told by an "old timer" that when a fitting is tightened on a threaded piece the tension and friction is in that direction. The hardened pipe dope, rust, and years of the mating surface bonding resist movement in the opposite direction more than in the same original turning direction. Once the pipe dope, rust, and mating surface bond is broken by tightening slightly, only the CW tension is still present. This may not be the exact cause, but at least it sounds like a good explanation.

My 1st choice would be 2-4# hand sledges to crack a cast iron fitting to save time. My 2nd choice is a 6" cut wheel on a 4-1/2" Milwaukee hand grinder with the guard removed and a good pair of work gloves and goggles for protection. (you have to try and be safe)

tim smith

Vote for grind and split. Our guys have got so proficient at this. 5 minutes or so. They grind through the collar shy of threads, cold chisel and spin off. 

mferrer

I recommend using wrenches first, then cracking using two heavy hammers as suggested in other posts if that doesn't work.

Backing out old CI fittings is not easy but should be done with two wrenches (and levers if necessary). It's crucial to use a "hold back" wrench (and lever) tbat is equivalent in size/length to tbe wrench (and lever) that you are using to back off the fitting or pipe. Be careful not to crush (egg) the pipe because you will, in effect, be wedging the threads into the fitting and making it harder to back off. It's easier to remove a fitting (that won't collapse) from steel piping (that will collapse) than the other way around.

Another trick is to apply heat (using a turbo torch with a large tip) to the CI fitting, allowing it to expand, and using large wrenches in the same fashion. Obviously you have to work safely with an open flame (fire extinguisher, etc.) This little trick works great for that stubborn fitting. 

I have used cutting wheels with grinders on many occasions. They are extremely dangerous. Both young inexperienced and older, tired workers have suffered terrible accidents using grinders. Use caution! I teach workers to avoid them as a regular use tool. Use only on a very rare occasion. The odds of accidents runs high!

STEAM DOCTOR

Instead of the grinder, you can try Diabalo heavy metal sawzall  blades. They cut through cast iron like butter.