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Need A Utility Sink Faucet With 3.125 Inch Center

SteamHeatSteamHeat Member Posts: 140
Hello Everyone,

Please see attached jpeg image.

I am looking for a utility sink faucet to replace this one which leaks whenever turned on, either hot or cold, from the spout joint and drips for hours after closing. It is well beyond its service life and is a very odd setup.

The problem I am having is that the centers measure 3.125 inches (3-1/8) and I cannot find anything with that size.

Anyone have any ideas besides complete re-work ?

TIA

Comments

  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,403
    My inclination -- since I go restoration! -- would be to take the spout off (is that a union? If not, take the whole thing off the wall and undo the spout) and find out why it is leaking. Odds are that it is a packing problem. Might be able to simply repack it. Do the valves shut off tightly? They look like quarter turn, which is relatively recent -- there might be parts for them available, as well.

    Otherwise...
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • SteamHeatSteamHeat Member Posts: 140
    Hi Jamie,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Before the plague was visited upon us, I had a pro (MP) come for a look-see. He could not figure out how to remove the spout. Neither could I.

    The valves would need to have the washers replaced and be re-packed, but they are NOT 1/4 turn and they are so close to the wall, they grind the back part of their handles against the metal splash plate that the former homeowner bolted to the wall whenever they are opened or closed.

    I was hoping to find a faucet that fit that had smaller handles so that they would clear the splash plate.

    There is (of course) no cut-off for this faucet other than turning off the water meter for the entire house. So removing the faucet without having another faucet to replace it, that will definitely fit, is not advisable. :) LOL !

    The folks that take pleasure in making a Rube Goldberg installation never seem to be the ones who have to repair it later on. :) LOL !
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,403
    Those old things can be a little difficult...

    You might look at Van Dyke's. This link is for their bath tub faucets at 3 3/8 inch spacing: https://www.vandykes.com/bathtub-faucets-wall-mount-338-inch/c/9242/
    but I haven't seen any at 3 1/8.

    The Big Box has this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-2-Handle-Laundry-Faucet-in-Rough-Brass-4211N-0001/206576360
    but it's 3 1/2.

    Lowe's has a similar one; they don't bother to give the spacing.

    Even Walmart has one -- but again, 3 1/2 inch spacing.

    I'm searching for "utility sink faucet" by the way...

    I'll look some more sometime.
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • SteamHeatSteamHeat Member Posts: 140
    Thank you, Jamie.

    I did not know about Van Dyke's. They might have some other old parts for my old home. :) LOL !

    I appreciate you helping me search for this.

    Many thanks.
  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 11,249
    I would think replacing or cleaning up the valve seats (not sure if you can still buy the tools for this?) And some new Neoprene washers and it would work like new for a long time.



    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 7,307
    The cheap easy way out is to rip it out and put two separate boiler drain valves on. If your using this for a washing machine or where it isn't likely that you need a mixing faucet then who cares?
  • SteamHeatSteamHeat Member Posts: 140
    Hi Chrisj,

    Thanks for the reply.

    The problem of repairing this is that with no cutoff specific to this fixture, if I turn off the water meter to the house and begin to repair this only to find it un-repairable, if I then reassemble and it is leaking in the off positions with no replacement ready, I am so very screwed.

    So even if I want to try to rebuild this faucet, I still need to have a replacement that fits ready in case everything goes wrong, which is all too often what happens with ancient plumbing hardware.

    What may not be very visible in my jpeg, is that the hot packing nut has a blob of what looks like epoxy on it. That does not portend a good outcome for repairs.

    I really need to see if I can find a direct fit replacement.
  • SteamHeatSteamHeat Member Posts: 140
    Hi EBEBRATT-Ed,

    Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, it is used for hand washing and other temperature sensitive purposes, so mixing is needed.

    However, if you could point me to a link for boiler drain valves which are top-fed, it would give me a way to save myself if they do start leaking while closed and if I cannot find a faucet that fits.

    I suppose I could maybe even rig a temporary mixing setup with garden hose fittings and tubing.

    TIA
  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 11,249
    Honestly, if it was mine, I would do what I already did to my own house.

    Sawzall.
    Years ago I replaced most of the galvanized with copper. I just replaced some of the really old copper with pex A and replaced the galvanized water service line which was lots of fun.

    In the end, it was worth it.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,183
    I just measured a couple of retired surface mount shower valves, one is 3 1/2 the other is 3 3/8.

    You could remove the faucet via the unions, then remove the upper half of the union. That part is brass and may unscrew fairly easy. Or hold the nuts up and grind/saw the brass across the threads almost to the iron pipe threads.

    With them off you could them install 1/2" galv or brass 90's and regular boiler/hose bib drains. Old school globe valves give better regulation than 1/4 turn ball valves.
    Then the hokey hose wye on the outlets to give you a single port faucet. The only caution is to not put any valve on the single port, this gives you a potential cross connection of hot and cold.
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,403
    On the whole, not an unusual problem with old (like really old) plumbing. I don't like the sound of the blob of epoxy at all...

    And repairing the seats and washers is a very iffish proposition. One of the unappreciated problems (been there, done that, by the way) is that older faucets like that have much larger diameter seat (and washers) than even ones from the '50s, and even if you can find a faucet reamer the correct size for them, it's remarkably difficult to get the seat really square. It doesn't matter so much on modern (!) smaller ones, but at those sizes... drip drip drip.

    I honestly think my own approach would be to find one -- probably Van Dykes -- which had much the same look and feel, and then redo the plumbing above it to fit. And a suggestion on that: if you do, install independent local shutoffs in the lines above. Ball valves to suit are not expensive, and can save an unbelievable amount of grief later one.
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 11,249
    On the whole, not an unusual problem with old (like really old) plumbing. I don't like the sound of the blob of epoxy at all... And repairing the seats and washers is a very iffish proposition. One of the unappreciated problems (been there, done that, by the way) is that older faucets like that have much larger diameter seat (and washers) than even ones from the '50s, and even if you can find a faucet reamer the correct size for them, it's remarkably difficult to get the seat really square. It doesn't matter so much on modern (!) smaller ones, but at those sizes... drip drip drip. I honestly think my own approach would be to find one -- probably Van Dykes -- which had much the same look and feel, and then redo the plumbing above it to fit. And a suggestion on that: if you do, install independent local shutoffs in the lines above. Ball valves to suit are not expensive, and can save an unbelievable amount of grief later one.

    Oddly enough the stops I just installed are not ball type.  I've kind of given up on cheap ball valves.   Expensive ones yes I'll use but the cheaper ones, no thanks.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • SteamHeatSteamHeat Member Posts: 140
    Thanks for the replies everyone.

    Unfortunately, I have some experience with sawzall. A pro used one to cut some water pipe to make a mod for me and the vibration caused all sorts of leaks down the line necessitating a lot of replaced sections that were not envisioned in the planning of the mod.

    Another problem is that the feeding pipes are mounted nearly flush to the foundation wall and getting an elbow threaded on would require chopping a matching hole into the concrete blocks. Not something I would really want to do.

    I am trying to avoid re-doing the plumbing above, though if there is no other way, if I cannot find a fixture that fits, then I guess that I will have to have my pro re-do the piping and I'll have him replace the slop sink at the same time. That would have to be post-plague though.

    I will keep looking. Somewhere out there maybe someone has a fixture that fits. I think that the faucet was a mass produced item. There must have been a 3.125 line from some manufacturer at one time. I just have to find one that is in good or new shape.
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,861
    Wouldn't hurt to start replacing some of that galvanized with copper and add some shutoffs or buy a faucet with service stops.

    Here is a gerber without stops:
    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Gerber-G0049530-Two-Handle-Clamp-On-Laundry-Faucet-w-IPS-Sweat-Connections-Threaded-Hose-Spout-Rough-Brass-49-530

    Kohler and speakman probably make one too
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,861
    those pipes will almost certainly move out half an inch or so and over a quarter inch to fit a faucet with slightly different spacing if you undo some of the hangers. you will have to replace the half of the unions on the risers to match the unions on the old faucet.

    i really don't think someone who knows what they are doing would have any problem rebuilding that old faucet.
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,861
    I think the spout comes off by unscrewing that nut on the top then there is a washer arrangement that seals it and holds it to the faucet body.
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