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anyone know of stanchion hardware for 1 and 1/2" IPS

archibald tuttlearchibald tuttle Member Posts: 686
i put this in plumbing because i'm trying to support a water meter near the floor although the same could hold true for some low pump manifolds for heating, etc.

I've virtually never been confronted with this issue before with most meters i work on are just in a hole in the ground supported by the pipe coming out of the ground and usually they go up to the ceiling from there so the pipe on the other side can serve as vertical support, not to mention that most of the meters i deal with are much smaller and lighter. So called my longtime mentor on such things who said you use an F&M ring and threaded rod but work a piece of black pipe over the rod before you put the ring on to stiffen it so the pipe if sized carefully is what the ring actually sits out on. That seems doable but pretty finicky vs. a ring that has maybe a pipe receiver and set screw and you could just use a threaded end into a flange on the floor. I guess there just are far fewer applications for stanchions (now that the nuclear power industry is waning) than for hangers. But I thought I'd ask the hive heating mind.

I already don't like the hanger options for overhead F&M rinks because they are a royal pain in the a#$ when the pipe is close to the ceiling and i'm putting in hangers that the last guy neglected to so the pipe is in place already and prevents readily driving screws upwards into a regular flat plate hanger. so I have taken to dismembering a two screw FM ring and reaming the threads out of it and putting a nut above (picture too) which gives me plenty of adjustment like an A band setup. obviously you can't get as tight as you can get with just a flat plate but I digress.

just wondering if there is any hardware ready made for stiff support from underneath pipes rather than over. Then I'm also going to run a support back to the wall. I'm hoping there is some system i've been missing that does just what i want to here. thanks

brian







BillyO

Comments

  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,565
    I've seen custom-built things, made out of tubular steel, for sprinkler pipes; but the easiest thing seems to be a pipe sleeve over all-thread. It's really not that hard to get them the right length. Conduit is a lot easier to work with than pipe, but whatever's on hand is cheaper than buying something.
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 7,321
    2 pieces of Uni strut with clamps on the meter stubs (you can even use the cushion clamps) or I think they make insulating clamps now.

    Support rods (4) up to the struts. Use 3/8 rod with or without sleaving or use 1/2" rod depending on the height your at.

    Use the U shaped "strut washers" on either side of the strut for easy adjustment
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 13,869
    You can also find unistrut foot brackets. A couple anchors and cush clamps and away you go.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • archibald tuttlearchibald tuttle Member Posts: 686
    So i spent some time looking at strut fittings because I thought, perfect, i'll put a plate on the wall and one on the floor and then use and angle connector. But couldn't find a butt angle clamp designed to put the channel U-up on top of piece coming from the floor. Then I thought, I'll just use an inside angle but for reasons unknown to me they don't make the holes on their connectors with the same spacing as the holes punched on the strut. Now the slots even on half-space might be long enough to play games accommodating this, but what genius decided to use multiple spacing on a single bracket and not have it correspond to the punched spacing on the strut. I mean you can get 2 or 4" spacing on the strut punch and this has 3 and 1/8", 3 and 1/4" and 3 and 3/4". I wish I could get some of that sensimillia they are giving out down in strut engineering.




    But look what i found. just how imagined this should be done. As you would expect its for heavier applications but they do have a 2 and 1/2" model not listed so if I get a good rubber cushion for 1 and 1/2" pipe should be we the people and, no they don't give it away, but it isn't that far north of a century and looks like it was meant to do the job. That kind of thing will always coax $25 or $50 out of me, the quintessential skinflint. So now I'm just looking for a nice thick rubber bushing for 1 and 1/2" pipe. anybody . . . ? Bueller . . . ?





  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,899
    edited August 25
    Use a piece of rubber hose and slit it to pad out the clamp...

    Personally I would take the under $10 route and put a plate and rod on the floor and one on the wall.
  • archibald tuttlearchibald tuttle Member Posts: 686
    edited August 25
    mattmia2 said:

    Use a piece of rubber hose and slit it to pad out the clamp...

    Personally I would take the under $10 route and put a plate and rod on the floor and one on the wall.

    I just find the rod work so finicky and marginal and it just is not really designed for compression. Not to mention friggin with the threads once you cut it, although this is a great help cleaning that up lately:



    definitely the rod approach is cheaper and i definitely can see that with a little experience you can add a piece of pipe to stiffen the floor supports and get the sizing right pretty easily. But I can afford two of these stanchions for this job and it will make it look like nuclear solid which is what I want because I had to beg the friggin water company to bless this installation to begin with because it is 6 feet from the entry into the house which is in an apartment and I used to have to wake up the tenant to turn off the water if there was an emergency. and they always imagine this is about stealing water rather than about improving maintenance and accessibilty.

    Taking your hose splitting idea a step further, I think I might split a couple of these for bushings as I need nice thick bushing to fit the clamp which is designed to do both 2 and 1/2" and 2" pipe sizes:



  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,206
    There are heavy duty wall angle shelve brackets that are about 16 X 16. Maybe $6-8 each. You could bolt short unistrut section on the top and use cushy clamps for the pipes.
    Looks good for maybe only $30.
    mattmia2
  • archibald tuttlearchibald tuttle Member Posts: 686
    JUGHNE said:

    There are heavy duty wall angle shelve brackets that are about 16 X 16. Maybe $6-8 each. You could bolt short unistrut section on the top and use cushy clamps for the pipes.
    Looks good for maybe only $30.

    junghe, I thought on that general model as well. and you're right i could use the wall with good welded brace angle bracket and although the bracket is not an industry standard the strut and clamp would be recognizable. I thought on that and I think it would make the water board folks happy but I really got a thing for these stanchions now so this may be the rare case that i splurge.
  • Larry WeingartenLarry Weingarten Member Posts: 1,916
    Hi, Looks like something could be done with Kee Klamps. McMaster has a decent selection.
    Yours, Larry
  • GroundUpGroundUp Member Posts: 1,038
    Don't overthink this. Drill an anchor into the floor, cut 3/8" allthread to the proper length (with a band saw or even a screamer, there will be no burr) and screw it into the floor anchor, thread on a hex nut and washer both below the split ring and above the floor anchor then sandwich the 1/2" pipe between the two nuts/washers (jamb nuts, if you will). Rock solid mount done in 5 minutes for 5 dollars.
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,899
    I thread a nut on the rod before cutting it, that way when you take the nut off it takes off the burr. a little harder to start than chamferd bolts but you only will be doing it once.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,206
    I used to always use a chop saw for threaded rod. But then had to grind a taper on the end of the rod using the side of the chop wheel........loud...sparks and time consuming.

    Since getting a "Hackzall", one handed Sawzall, I use it to cut rod. If the blade is placed so as to cut the rod at the angle of the threads then nuts start quite easily. I also have a thread restorer tool (for all sizes) that will straighten up burred threads if needed.

  • GroundUpGroundUp Member Posts: 1,038
    Does nobody have a porta-band? It's 2020. Anyone who cuts any amount of rod would be money ahead in about a week by never having to de-burr a thread again. And I mean never. In 13 years of dozens of cuts a day I bet I haven't had 3 that were troublesome to get a nut started.
  • MikeL_2MikeL_2 Member Posts: 268
    edited August 28
    We routinely fashion brackets from kindorf or unistrut ( picture a large version of a carpenters speed square ). With a Sawzall or grinder, and a couple of angled cuts, you can easily form the strut into a sturdy support bracket.......
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