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Chrome plated copper Toilet Supply Lines types of washer ends ?
heathead
Member Posts: 238
I am hooking up toilets and both types work, but what is better ? A end with cone shaped washer looks more prone to water attacking it ie chlorine vs the flat washer? The cone washer would compress more easier to seal. I am using chrome plated copper and hooking it up to fluidmaster fill valves. Tying to use the best longest lasting. Any breaking of the fuildmaster valves in feild after years of use. I know the flexible stainless lines and plastic ones have some tags that read replace after five years. I know its a basic question but wanted some thoughts. Trying to learn. Aslo they make a PVC pipe repair coupler ie no ridge in middle of coupler. I have given up trying to use it and use a fernco instead. Every time if i prime pipe and coupling and slide it with glue it gets stuck. What is the trick to this.
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Comments
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We've always used the the plastic one in the past. The rubber one would be best to hold a seal; the plastic one best for durability. Whichever one you use, make sure you also use a brass friction ring.
But we no longer use rigid and have switched to the braided, stainless steel.
As far as the PVC slip coupling, de-burr the ends of the pipe, maybe file out the inside of the coupling to give you more slippage, double coat with glue and mark your pipe so you know where to stop.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
I have always used the cone type of CP brass, but now the SS braid type.
If you are concerned about chlorine affecting the washer, look inside the WC tank.....plenty of rubber and plastic sitting in the water.
The tank chlorine/bleach "tank pills" will certainly work on the rubber flapper. Can't imagine you have that much chlorine in your drinking water.0 -
Even in St. Louis in August there isn't enough chlorine residual in the water to attack rubber in any reasonable length of time... like a decade or two...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
In michigan a flapper is good for 5-10 years on either Detroit or Ann Arbor water and that is with the supposedly chemical resistant ones.
What is with the different styles of ends on supply lines? I thought the cone type was for faucets and the flat type was for ballcocks. It seemed like the cone type didn't go far enough in to a ballcock for the nut they provide to catch enough threads.0 -
Chlorine has been OK with rubber plumbing parts for a long time now. It's only with chloramine (chlorine + ammonia) that rubber starts breaking down. Check with your local municipality as to what kind of disinfectant they use to treat the water.8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
Yes water type is chloramine ? spelling disinfectant. Both type Fit the ball cock. Yes Stainless line are easier to install but I don't trust as much. If you have a water line break in a house you do anything within reason not to have it happen again. That being said everything including dishwasher supply line are going that way. With a dishwasher I could see the copper line vs a braded stainless line a wash. The copper could get kinked and leak vs stainless braded line. Thanks to all how responded. Stay safe.0
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Try to find a faucet that doesn't have braided lines built in to it...
But I agree, anything but copper is a burst risk and not more difficult or expensive than the alternatives.0 -
I love the look of a rigid closet or lavi supply, but I got tired of the leaks at the angle stop nut and ferrule. If anything moves or if someone comes along and bumps it, it leaks. The no-burst supplies are fast and virtually leak free. Sometimes a good business decision trumps beauty.8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0
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