Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
"Rust" particles in hot water tank
HarryL
Member Posts: 59
We have a 40gal State gas hot water heater. It is on about year 8 of a 10 year warranty.
A month ago we noticed that the hot water was slightly discolored. Unfortunately I don't know how long it had been discolored as our daughter noticed when visiting. I drained and flushed it the tank. At the end of the draining lots of bits of what look like rust were coming out. When it appeared no more particles were coming out I refilled and turned the burner back on.
I called the plumber that installed the unit 8 years ago. He said the tank is about to go, but that State won't replace it until it is leaking. Seems about right.
I called State and they said that if it was truly tank rust then we would already have some water on the floor. Instead they said it was caused by a bacteria reacting with the anode that creates the particles. Turning the hot water up to 140 would kill the bacteria though I might need to flush and drain again.
Temp was high for about a week and the water showed signs of discoloration again. So I am now draining and flushing again. Seems unlikely to solve the problem.
I was going to try to take the anode out but am afraid that since it hasn't been out in 8 years I will damage the tank trying to get it out. It now occurs to me that the particles are rust bits from the anode core?
I suppose I should get a new tank. The cheap side of me thinks to wait until it leaks as clearly this tank is not lasting the warranty period, but they won't replace it until it does. I'm also afraid we will have a wet basement soon.
Any ideas on what the problem is here and advice on next steps?
Thanks,
Harry
A month ago we noticed that the hot water was slightly discolored. Unfortunately I don't know how long it had been discolored as our daughter noticed when visiting. I drained and flushed it the tank. At the end of the draining lots of bits of what look like rust were coming out. When it appeared no more particles were coming out I refilled and turned the burner back on.
I called the plumber that installed the unit 8 years ago. He said the tank is about to go, but that State won't replace it until it is leaking. Seems about right.
I called State and they said that if it was truly tank rust then we would already have some water on the floor. Instead they said it was caused by a bacteria reacting with the anode that creates the particles. Turning the hot water up to 140 would kill the bacteria though I might need to flush and drain again.
Temp was high for about a week and the water showed signs of discoloration again. So I am now draining and flushing again. Seems unlikely to solve the problem.
I was going to try to take the anode out but am afraid that since it hasn't been out in 8 years I will damage the tank trying to get it out. It now occurs to me that the particles are rust bits from the anode core?
I suppose I should get a new tank. The cheap side of me thinks to wait until it leaks as clearly this tank is not lasting the warranty period, but they won't replace it until it does. I'm also afraid we will have a wet basement soon.
Any ideas on what the problem is here and advice on next steps?
Thanks,
Harry
Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area
0
Comments
-
For removing the anode, how much risk would there be to damaging the tank using an impact wrench?Home owner, 1927 2-story, single family
1 pipe Burnham IN4I, Boston area0 -
Roll the dice Sometimes the anodes remove easily with a socket and breaker, other times not.
An impact is a good option, you are less apt to twist the tank against the piping with an impact wrench.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Hi, A low tech "human impact wrench" is to use a 1-1/16" six point socket with a 3/4" breaker bar, and while holding it tight on the anode, use a small sledge to tap on the handle of the breaker bar. This can get out some pretty stubborn anodes. Should you replace the anode, use a magnesium one as the replacement.
Yours, Larry0 -
Put a pan piped to the drain under the new one whenever it gets replaced.HarryL said:
I suppose I should get a new tank. The cheap side of me thinks to wait until it leaks as clearly this tank is not lasting the warranty period, but they won't replace it until it does. I'm also afraid we will have a wet basement soon.0 -
How do water heater warranties work? Assuming a warranted failure, will they pro-rate it, giving him only 20% of the cost since it survived 8/10 years?
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 52 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 913 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 380 Solar
- 14.8K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements