How Do I Vet a Contractor?

reframmellator

New member here. We are replacing a 29 year old Lochinvar Mini Fin gas boiler (copper HX) in our 1977 home. We converted from oil in 1991 and would not go back. Home is 1750 sf, not including a full unheated basement. Two zone heat with Honeywell zone valves. The Lochinvar has generally worked well after I installed a "bleeder line" to increase the return temperature enough to stop hammer, but it is corroding and started to make all kinds of noise very late in the heating season after the expansion tank failed loudly.

I agree with the assessment here that I should find a good contractor first, then worry about the hardware. I tried your search tool here, but there is nobody within 50 miles of me (near Albany, NY.)

I like the guy who helped me with the failed expansion tank. He was thorough, fast to respond, very reasonable, and about five minutes away. He is also in his early sixties and has two younger employees. He is a fan of Utica conventional boilers. He is very highly reviewed on our neighborhood website.

My questions for you experts:

What is the best way to evaluate a contractor? Word of mouth is good, but is it enough?

Is a Utica boiler a good choice? What other options should I consider?

Last year, I replaced a badly corroded galvanized duct tee that connected to the wall and chimney. If I need to repair the vent/chimney, does that make a higher efficiency (condensing) unit a little more competitive in terms of installed cost?

EdTheHeaterMan

One trick that I like to offer is to check with the local supply company the contractors use. Tell them you wish to purchase a new boiler and see who they recommend. If they offer you more than one, then those are the contactors that know what that are doing. When I spent 2 years working in the supply house business, I got to know the guys who had no clue, because they were always returning parts the were "Junk" because they did not accept the concept o "Installer Error". I would not recommend these clueless contractors to the homeowner customers in our showroom.

I also got to know the ones that knew their stuff and also attend continuing education classes we offered.

Word of mouth is also good.

Older contractors may not be up on the latest and greatest energy-efficient electronic wonders. If you are looking for best value, you may want to consider more modern equipment the old guys are nor comfortable with.

Finally, Get references and look at photographs of completed jobs. There are always the super-happy customers that will be glad to tell you what a great job the contractor did. If not, then maybe he does not do such good work.

MikeL_2

Try calling your local building department and ask for a list of contractors who regularly apply for heating equipment installation permits & inspections........

Zman

I do wonder why the galvy vent has failed to begin with.
The hammering issue may have been related.
What are the supply and return temps to the boiler. What is the operating stat set to?

hot_rod

Ask local wholesalers for some names. Also find the rep for the product and ask them for a list of contractors they recommend.

reframmellator

Many great suggestions here for contacts. Thanks! I feel much better about being better informed going forward.

I'll try to answer a few questions. This is what was left of the galvanized tee:



This layman is worried about what the vent looks like inside the wall - first for safety, second for costs to repair.

The rear of the boiler (vertical surface) also has two slit-like rusted-through holes, each about 2", in the sheet metal that encloses the heat exchanger and connects to the vent ductwork.

I am not sure, but I think the operating temperature is set to 190F. I can't offer any help on the other temps.

The hammering was severe and occurred shortly after the boiler would start up. The contractor said it was "normal" for the boiler and offered no help. I dug into the manual and way in the back it described what to do in case of banging. I followed those instructions and the banging stopped. I connected a jumper line with a gate valve between the circulator pump outlet and the return to the heat exchanger. When the banging started, I cracked open the gate valve until the return was warm enough to stop the banging and left it there. So I'm pretty sure the banging was thermal shock to the HX, which probably contributed to its replacement under warranty.

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

The Better Business Bureau may have him listed - good or bad. His contractor's license should be current with the state license board. A Google search of his name and location can offer some hits. If Yelp! is active in your area, customer comments can provide insight.

STEAM DOCTOR

Ask him what criteria he uses to size boiler. Ask him about his piping strategies. Take notes and post them here. 

gennady

Knocking probably related to high temp, poor water circulation and boiler over sizing. Lower temp to at list 180F, manual reset aquastat to 210F. Vent connector corrosion related to boiler condensation. Temperature of the boiler water must not drop below 140F, otherwise it will condense. Check if there is a triple aquastat, set low knob to 140F. You can consider high efficiency condensing modulating boiler.