Shutting Down For The Summer.

JackW

Looks like warm weather is finally here in NW Ohio, what is the proper shut down procedure for the summer months. Before I redid my system I just drained the top half and left the water in the floor then would flush it all out before firing it up in the fall. I know the water is dirty because I can see it in the strainer, plus I'm using a micro boiler now so I want to make sure it's clean, along with the lines and pumps before I fire it up in the fall. Do they make any kind of a cleaner that can be run through the system for that purpose? Also should I leave the system full or empty for the summer? Any other advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack

HVACNUT

I wouldn't think you'd have to do anything at all aside from shutting off the water feed.

Maintenance in the fall with a combustion analysis.

JackW

@HVACNUT my concern is the dirty the water that appears in the strainer. I don't know where that came from but I worry it might cause problems inside my boiler. I remember seeing a post that someone recommended using a cleaner of some sort, it consisted of two pressurized cans.

SuperTech

You definitely don't want to drain your boiler. Oxygen is your enemy with a boiler. Anytime you add fresh water, air and oxygen are added. This can increase the potential for corrosion inside your circulator and any other ferrous metals in your system. That strainer is ok, I'd rather have a magnetic dirt separator. I've used 8 way boiler treatment in my boiler at home. What do you have for domestic hot water? That boiler looks like it would go with an indirect tank. 😉

JackW

@SuperTech my system runs off of a micro boiler. I was looking for something to run through the system to clean it out.

SuperTech

Try the 8 way boiler treatment. Put it in before you start using the boiler again and keep it in there for the season. It will turn your boiler water purple initially, if it doesn't stay purple you might need to treat it again. I'm sure you can find more info on it online.

Zman

If you are concerned about the water, test it. PH and TDS at the very least. I would recommend treating the water if needed and cycling the pumps a few times over the summer. Leave the system charged.

hot_rod

Was the system properly cleaned when installed?

If not I would run a cleaner, flush, refill with good water and then add the second can of hydronic treatment.

Assuming the system is leak free, it should be sealed off, labeled, and last for 20 years.

All system fluid will get some color to the water, the systems with inhibitors tend to run grey, non inhibited plain water systems will run a bit red, indicating the ferrous metals have rusted from any O2 in the system. It's almost impossible to keep perfectly clear water in a hydronic system.

Rhomar is a good brand of inhibitor/ cleaner kits. A few others offer the two can cleaner/ conditioner packages.

JackW

@hot_rod thanks. The color of the water is rusty looking red. I didn't clean anything when I rebuilt it so I will do it now. Is the cleaner kit from Rhomar the "Hydro-Solv™ QC Aerosol Hydronic System Cleaner" below?

http://www.rhomarwater.com/Hydronic_Treatment.html

JackW

Thanks @Zman.

hot_rod

JackW said:

@hot_rod thanks. The color of the water is rusty looking red. I didn't clean anything when I rebuilt it so I will do it now. Is the cleaner kit from Rhomar the "Hydro-Solv™ QC Aerosol Hydronic System Cleaner" below?

http://www.rhomarwater.com/Hydronic_Treatment.html

yes this is a simple DIY kit.

Word of caution, be sure you have it connected tightly on the hose connection, the can empties in a few seconds!

JackW

Thanks @SuperTech I'll look into that.