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Replacing my Honeywell T6360B1028 for a digital version

boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
edited March 23 in Controls
Hi there, im wanting to update my old thermostat to a digital version.

Ive included a photo so you can see the wiring i have currently running to the T6360B1028 on my wall at home.

The way mine is wired is :-

1 red
3 yellow
2 blue

The way i see it is:-

1 (red) is live
3 (yell) is sw live
2 (blu) is neutral.

However I have purchased a Salus RT500, that only has positions for Live and a SW live.

My question is what do I do with the neutral. Can i just put it on a choc block. Will it still work okay?
Or is the RT500 not suitable for this type of wiring, and i'll have to find one suitable for this configuration of wiring.

Thanks




Comments

  • SteamingatMohawkSteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 234
    Perhaps you can find a wiring diagram for your heating system. That might help.
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    This is the controller I have EHE0200160 and I am guessing it is an S-Plan in my house, as i have 2 seperate zone valves, one for heating , one for hot water, and the S_Plan is the only one I see that has the 2 seperate valves.






  • SteamingatMohawkSteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 234
    How about the wiring diagram for the tstat?
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    edited March 23
    Wiring diagram for the stat is in my 1st post, havent got any more info than that.
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,093
    The Neutral in the Honeywell is solely for the heat anticipator.

    The RT500 needs the Neutral for the clock.

    Terminal L- Red wire
    Terminal N- Blue wire
    Terminal 4- Yellow wire

    L Normally Open to 4 will close on temperature drop.
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    My RT500 does not have a slot for neutral as per pic. Only positions for live & SW live , I thought the clock was controlled by the batteries ?
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,093
    Ok. It's far different from the diagrams you posted.

    You're dealing with 240v A/C, which we knew, but...

    The old thermostat needed N (120v) to energize the heat anticipator.

    The thermostats in the diagrams need N to power the clock.

    Your new thermostat sub base as shown is just a switch. No N needed.

    So you'll use the Red wire and Yellow wire. Cap the Blue.

    I dont know the significance between L and SL. It shouldn't matter. If only there where directions for that exact thermostat.
  • SteamingatMohawkSteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 234
    The new one with two wires as you stated above, not the installed one with three. Sorry for the confusion.
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    Ok cheers for your help folks, I'll just put the unused neutral into a term block n give it a shot. Thanks again
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