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Replacing my Honeywell T6360B1028 for a digital version

boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
edited March 23 in Controls
Hi there, im wanting to update my old thermostat to a digital version.

Ive included a photo so you can see the wiring i have currently running to the T6360B1028 on my wall at home.

The way mine is wired is :-

1 red
3 yellow
2 blue

The way i see it is:-

1 (red) is live
3 (yell) is sw live
2 (blu) is neutral.

However I have purchased a Salus RT500, that only has positions for Live and a SW live.

My question is what do I do with the neutral. Can i just put it on a choc block. Will it still work okay?
Or is the RT500 not suitable for this type of wiring, and i'll have to find one suitable for this configuration of wiring.



  • SteamingatMohawkSteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 251
    Perhaps you can find a wiring diagram for your heating system. That might help.
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    This is the controller I have EHE0200160 and I am guessing it is an S-Plan in my house, as i have 2 seperate zone valves, one for heating , one for hot water, and the S_Plan is the only one I see that has the 2 seperate valves.

  • SteamingatMohawkSteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 251
    How about the wiring diagram for the tstat?
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    edited March 23
    Wiring diagram for the stat is in my 1st post, havent got any more info than that.
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,373
    The Neutral in the Honeywell is solely for the heat anticipator.

    The RT500 needs the Neutral for the clock.

    Terminal L- Red wire
    Terminal N- Blue wire
    Terminal 4- Yellow wire

    L Normally Open to 4 will close on temperature drop.
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    My RT500 does not have a slot for neutral as per pic. Only positions for live & SW live , I thought the clock was controlled by the batteries ?
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,373
    Ok. It's far different from the diagrams you posted.

    You're dealing with 240v A/C, which we knew, but...

    The old thermostat needed N (120v) to energize the heat anticipator.

    The thermostats in the diagrams need N to power the clock.

    Your new thermostat sub base as shown is just a switch. No N needed.

    So you'll use the Red wire and Yellow wire. Cap the Blue.

    I dont know the significance between L and SL. It shouldn't matter. If only there where directions for that exact thermostat.
  • SteamingatMohawkSteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 251
    The new one with two wires as you stated above, not the installed one with three. Sorry for the confusion.
  • boredcolboredcol Member Posts: 5
    Ok cheers for your help folks, I'll just put the unused neutral into a term block n give it a shot. Thanks again
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