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closely spaced tees

HeatPav
HeatPav Member Posts: 13
I am new to the forum and I am a bit confused about closely spaced tees and how to utilize it. I am replacing an old (early 70's) cast iron boiler that was gravity fed where the circulator was placed on the return near the old boiler and the 4 zone valves on the supply side. I don't think the system I have in place is setup as a primary/secondary per-say, its more like a supply/return setup. I purchased a Westinghouse WBRCNG140W 140k BTU Condensing Natural Gas Boiler to replace the old boiler and I know I am going to have to re-pipe a lot of it. I will be calling in someone eventually to finish the install if I am lucky but I would like to save as much money as I can by doing what I can so I would like to get as much of it right as I can. The new boiler has its own primary inline circulator but needs an additional circulator so instead of using the old cast iron taco I purchased a new taco VR1816-HY2-FC2A00 variable speed pump and a Webstone primary/secondary loop purge tee.

My question is does my present setup really need the tees? From what I can gather the tees are needed when a system uses zoned circulators and the tees need to be placed near each of the zones. Since I will be using both the boilers inline circulator and the new circulator on the return, do I have to still use the tees and if I do, could I get away with placing the tee right below the boiler. I am attaching a photo to give an idea of what I am looking at doing and a page of directions that came with the boiler that closely reflects the setup I have or want to use and accomplish. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.



Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    Pipe it like it says in the instructions.
    Or re-pipe it like it says in the instructions after you didn't do it correctly the first time.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,387
    a fairly easy fix. Connect the two 1-1/4 together, pipe the boiler into that loop.

    Does the boiler have a pump inside? If not you need to add one, and also one for the heat/ zone valve loop.

    Use a delta P circulator for the heats loop, (new pump) in the supply line to the zone valves, ignore that bypass valve shown in their drawing if you use a delta P circulator..
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    HeatPav
  • HeatPav
    HeatPav Member Posts: 13
    Ah kewl, you even took the time to illustrate it, thanks. The new boiler does have a CH supply circulator so I redid my photo to show what I was thinking you might be suggesting. I was told having the expansion tank, air separator before the pump would work best on the supply side. My concern with this setup was the two pumps pumping away into the zone valves but what is being suggested is it would work fine AND how close the tees are to the boiler and how effective they would be placed there. Thanks Hot Rod for your help.

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,548
    Please note that the ONLY time that the Webstone valve handle should be closed is when you're attempting to purge air from the heat exchanger.

    It should NEVER be closed when the boiler is running. In fact, I'd open it and remove the handle. It's really not necessary in your setup.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • HeatPav
    HeatPav Member Posts: 13
    Oh OK, didn't know that. I had planned on leaving it opened but thought this would be handy in case there was a problem, thanks for the heads-up
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,387
    Locate the tank so both the boiler and system pump are pumping away.

    Either piping example , whatever fits best in your space.

    Need some distance before and after the Webstone valve, use this example.

    6-8" on either side of that Webstone fitting should be fine if it is 1" copper?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    HeatPav
  • HeatPav
    HeatPav Member Posts: 13
    Great advise Hot Rod and again, thanks for taking the time to illustrate it for me, makes more sense.
  • BillyO
    BillyO Member Posts: 277
    I know this is off topic but is that boiler made by kiturami? looks identical to HTP and Laars
    SuperTech
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,548
    BillyO said:

    I know this is off topic but is that boiler made by kiturami? looks identical to HTP and Laars

    It's basically the same as the UFT and some slight differences to the Laars.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • GroundUp
    GroundUp Member Posts: 2,112
    Kind of a mixture of the two. Kiturami HX, more like the Laars in that it's set up from the factory with an internal circ but more like the EFT with the fuel delivery/burner setup, except 5:1 TDR like the Laars. Except there's even less support for the Westinghouse because they're online only
  • HeatPav
    HeatPav Member Posts: 13
    Yes, I believe and I thought the original makers of this is HTP and Westinghouse just threw their name on it but it is identical to the HTP with a similar model number.