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New Gas Boiler recommendations?
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So I am not sure about where all the low voltage wiring correctly connects to the boiler. Can anyone tell me what goes where. I connected the outdoor reset to the "SV IN OD".
I have 3 wires left.i have 1 wire coming from the taco flow switch, 1 from a temperature sensor that is one the copper and 1 from my tekmar 304p switching relay. All my zone pumps and thermostats are wired to the tekmar relay.0 -
The boiler has 5 connections on bottom.
A-Central Heating Supply
B-Return from indirect water heater
C-Gas
D-Domestic Hot Water inlet
E- Central heating return
Do I need to put a cap on the B connection for the indirect water heater return? I am using this boiler for heat only, no DMW.
Thanks0 -
I think the manual states to cap the outlet if not using an IDW.0
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I didnt read that anywhere but after looking at the diagrams in the book of how the water flows through the actual boiler, it makes sense.
Any help on the wiring?0 -
5v connection is correct..its a5 volt outdoor reset connection...0
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Is the taco flow switch a paddle version...is it required by code?
Could you use a low water cut off in its place?
Or not use it at all..we dont need to use it in some areas around here..
Also see page 28 of install manual.
Diagram has a boiler with indirect water tank that states " cap this fitting when not in use"
Could you take a few pictures of your setup...stand about five feet in front of the boiler.
Please show piping arrangements. Zoom on on wiring.
Get about 3 -5 good ones...
I not sure why there's an aquastate and that taco switch wired together..0 -
Was the old boiler a floor standing or wall mounted boiler?
Have any pictures of the old setup?0 -
Old boiler was wall hung in the same spot. Not sure if the taco switch is required. The old system was just baseboard heat, this is all radiant. The supply and return pipes below the boiler have the old taco, honeywell and other temp sensor on them. Grundfos are wired in at the bottom of the tekmar. Thermostats wired into top and a wire runs out of the top to the boiler. I need to know where to connect that wire. So the boiler can talk to the tekmar relay.
There is a grey honeywell temperature sensor of some sort and another sensor below that. The grey Honeywell has a wire connected to the taco Model: ifs01br-1. There is then a wire that runs from the taco out to the boiler. I need to know where that wire goes also
There is one zone on my panel that's going to be hooked up in the future.0 -
Also, the temperature sensor that you can see below the grey honeywell sensor, that sensor, which is wrapped around the copper before the steel pipes, also has a wire running out that connects to the boiler panel as well but I am not sure where that goes.0
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Looks like you should have a red and white wire running from tehmar.marked x,x...these should run to boiler marked tt1..
The honeywell and taco control might be the same as low water level cut off switch...
Question... where does the power orginal come from to operate both the honeywell aquastate and the taco flow controller?
Do these still have juice on?
I would presume that the do not have power any longer?
Did the older bosch use primary/ secondary piping?0 -
Another question...
Those pipes that have the honeywell and taco control present...are those both return lines fron two different heat zones?0 -
Please send a picture of the pipes ,but have picture show where theyre routed from the new manifold.
And also how theyll be attached to teturn on new boiler0 -
The old steel pipes that are the supply and return out of the bottom of the boiler are connected to the distribution panel via those long steel corrugated tubes on the left of the expansion tank.
The bottom of the boiler is connected via corrugated stainless as well to the tops of the steel pipes. and the gas is in the middle connected via steel.0 -
Do those switches not get power from hooking them to the boiler circuit panel like the tekmar and outside reset ? They were connected to the Bosch panel0
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And yes I know I need to put a strut down towards the bottom for additional support0
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The lines that have the taco, honeywell and temp sensor are the main supply and returns from the boiler.
Honeywell and temp sensor are on the CH Supply at boiler
Taco is on CH return at boier.
Those steel pipes were attached to my previous Bosch boiler so I figured they would probably be ok staying. Not sure if I even need to have them0 -
Did the.bosch.have the fw200 controller?0
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So, is the honeywell connected to the taco lwco sensor ?
Fyi: Your code may require the taco lwco to be mounted 6 inches above boiler.
I didnt see anything in install manual for lwco..a call to tech support might be needed...0 -
Yes, the bosch had the FW200 controller.
The honeywell is connected to the taco.
To be honest, I am not terribly worried about it meeting code but I do want it to be safe.0 -
honeywell aquastat 6006c10180
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Ok..then.follow the manual, use page
32 as your guide..
Make sure to change the outdoor reset to the unit that came with the htp..
For some saftey..add a battery operated fire and co detector close by your boiler..
When performing your gas test, disconnect your outdoor reset. Hook that back up after you test the gas pressure..set per manual .0 -
outdoor reset has been changed. All the water piping is hooked up correctly. I will plug the tekmar into the TT1 spot on the boiler.
Since my aquastat is connected to the taco switch, should I be connecting that wire coming from the taco switch to the "TNK" connection on the boiler?
That would leave the temperature sensor that is located below the aquastat. What part of the boiler does that connect to?
Also, will I need a jumper wire for the "TT2" slot?
Thanks Fenkel, you have been a huge help0 -
I would repipe without both the taco and honeywell devices.
Your boiler has an internal lwco, and those temp aquastates are not needed...
You do not have to use the tt2 at this time...
Where we are located we dont need to used lwco, if boioer has a built in lwco...
Those temp guages /aquastates dont make any sense to me unless the operated a seperate heating zone..
They might have been there from the boiler before the bosch..
So take both out for now and repipe per page 32..
Fyi: we usually take all the old parts out and redo all the pipes and controllers associated with the new boiler...0 -
I understand taking them out and repiping but for simplicity sake, would I be ok just leaving them and not wiring them?0
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You could, but if you have any.flow issues, youll have to pull out the devices and cap the with plugs..
Id do that for a couple of bucks to start with..
Probably 2 each of 3/4 plugs..
Dont wire them in...
I looked at the install manual for wall mount bosch boiler.... i think those where external temp sensors for that boiler.0 -
Before you run the boiler system, flush it out with water, chemicals would be better, you'll want to get out any oils and gunk out..
There might be a post perge function in boiler setup mode..run it with all zones running to purge out all air from system.. do one zone at a time..
You do have a 30 psi pressure relief valve by the boiler?
Hopefully, installed the air bleed up on left corner front side of boiler as well..0 -
I installed the bleeder on the upper left corner. I am not sure what you mean by a pressure relief valve? Isnt that what the brass cylinder above the expansion tank is for? It has a bleeder screw on top of it.0
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No thats a air vent, pressure relief valve looks like whats on top.of your water heater.
You need a pressure relief valve .
Look to page 9 of install manual.
The section called whats in the.box
Look down to #5... thats a pressure relief valve.... you really need it!
Did the box also have a 6 inch piece of gray cpvc ?
That should be the first piece coming outbof the boiler in exhaust line as well, provided is was in the box.
See page 37 if installers manual.
Its marked warning0 -
Yes, I used to the 5" cpvc on the exhaust.
#5 the pressure relief valve, that is what is installed on the top left of the boiler. Page 19 - item #1 - shows a picture0 -
The air purge valve is below that, #2 on page 19.0
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Then you're almost done...0
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Thanks Fenkel, I should have a part im waiting on in a couple days and I will have it up and running hopefully. I need to read the manual more on how to set stuff up for the initial startup. Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated.0
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Np...Just post here if you want more help,0
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I got the boiler working. I was wondering why the grundfos pumps on my distribution panel are reading different watts. One pump is read 33watts and the other is 15. I have them both currently set on the "high" setting. Should I have them on medium or low?
Also, when I put the boiler on "auto" it throws an error that says my outdoor sensor is not working. Does it matter how I connect the red and white wires to the outdoor sensor? Maybe just flip the connections and see if it works?0 -
I have my boiler set to 145 degrees, approximately how long will it take before I start to see the temperatures on my manifolds change? Ive had it running about an hour and it hasnt changed much, if any at all.0
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I had the sensor wired incorrectly, got that fixed. Boiler is now running on auto. Guess I will wait a few hours and see if the tubing warms up.0
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Figured out I had air in the lines still, got it figured out.0
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Make sure you crack open the bleed off nipple on your deaerator..sometimes this is closed from factory..
I would purge each zone one at a time.start with closest zone to boiler.
Zones will not get hot or warm if air is present in the zone..
Make sure to get the air out of boiler as well. If not youll hear some cracking sounds coming from boiler for a while...
Also, sometimes raising boiler temp will aid to remove air from system.
Why 145?
Was your system designed to operate at 145?
Once you get the air out, system should heat up fairly fast...
Next pay attention to short cycling...
Boiler should run longer than 5 minutes before it shuts down... once zone gets warm it may cycle more, but we can make some btu adjustments to get you in the ball park..0 -
I have the thermostats set to 72, problem is I wont really be able to dial this thing in until i get the cellulose blown in the attic. Exterior walls are insulated though. Its 45 degrees out and the house is still climbing a couple degrees an hour. Its at 67 right now.
Boiler is set to 120 (lowest it will let me go?). I have to figure out the controls. The auto setting seems to take it 140, dont want it that high.
My question. Right now the supply temp at manifold is 110 and the return is 90ish. Should I be turning the pump inside the boiler down a little bit? Its 3/4 of the way up right now, came from the factory on max setting.0 -
Leave inside pump on high..
It.doesnt matter right now about the attic insulation...
What you need to figue out what yourhead load is..
Did you do a heatloss calculation?
If not,
Go to slant fin and use their online app to get a heatloss per room. ( the slant fin app will factor in insulation valves)
Then youll need to figure out what type of heat ommiter you have and then how much heat per foot it puts out at a give water temp
Then determine if you have enough heat omiters in
each room to heat that room with water temp of 180 first.
Every Manufacture will have a btu capacity per degree per size.
Here is a short example using heat trim baseboard .
Room needs 5800 btus to heat room:
Manufacture states 580 btu at 180 degrees.. you'd need ten feet of baseboard ( 3/4 inch and 4gpms flow)
If you want to run the temp at 160 degress, 450 btus at 160, you'd need approximately 13 feet of baseboard.
You need a baseline temperature for your heating system. You then set the boiler to it , your outdoor reset will take the outdoor temp and send a signal back to boiler, boiler will take this temp and thru a mathematical formula, boiler will make an adjustment to water temp to heat the zones, say the temp gets colder outside, the boiler will use a higher temp to heat.. same happens if outside temp warms up, boiler uses a cool temp to heat.
So Get a system design temperature .. then set your water temp to it..
Dont guess on a baseline temp.do the homework!0
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