Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Buderus boiler acting wonky .... again
macolo
Member Posts: 7
in Oil Heating
Ok, so I got a - Buderus G115 Logano + 2107 Logamatic + Outdoor Reset + Logalux LT135 HW tank indirect all about 6 yrs old. There are 3 zone valves running in 2200 sq foot home built 1937. Outside Air temp is 35-40F at the moment. When I arrived home at the boiler, I noticed there was firing occurring with the boiler on its own but the pressure gauges were both dropped to zero (see inline photo please for the 2 white gauges to the rear of the boiler).
I did a quick shut off and turn back on ( i know idiotic) and still after some time nothing good. I finally said fk it, popped it into Emergency Mode - by way of the switch on the Logamatic to the right side. Then on the left side of Logamatic turned the dial to 140-150 range. Its been running fine delivering proper Heat and HW in Emergency Mode. The second I pop it to AUT mode via that same right hand side switch it either cuts out and dies OR runs but I get cool air forever. **** is going on with this thing. Any ideas to check. As I said was running just fine in AUT for months as with most things now nothing.
FYI - in the pic its firing fine and running as it should but it is in emergency Mode.
Worth mentioning maybe is I have thermostats per each of the 3 zones - 2 forced air + 1 baseboard. I keep all of these on HOLD at 66 all the time - no schedules et as I thought with the outdoor reset its worthless anyway to do so. That method has worked fine tbh. All are Honeywell Thermostats.
Any help or guidance much appreciated. I have gotten pretty familiar with the Logamatic controls so if anyone wants me to run through readings I can if that would be helpful. Then I need someone knowledgeable about Buderus product in CT eventually to come dial this in. Finally, do I run any serious risk of damage to the boiler by running it in this Emergency Mode or impossible to say..?
Thanks again.
I did a quick shut off and turn back on ( i know idiotic) and still after some time nothing good. I finally said fk it, popped it into Emergency Mode - by way of the switch on the Logamatic to the right side. Then on the left side of Logamatic turned the dial to 140-150 range. Its been running fine delivering proper Heat and HW in Emergency Mode. The second I pop it to AUT mode via that same right hand side switch it either cuts out and dies OR runs but I get cool air forever. **** is going on with this thing. Any ideas to check. As I said was running just fine in AUT for months as with most things now nothing.
FYI - in the pic its firing fine and running as it should but it is in emergency Mode.
Worth mentioning maybe is I have thermostats per each of the 3 zones - 2 forced air + 1 baseboard. I keep all of these on HOLD at 66 all the time - no schedules et as I thought with the outdoor reset its worthless anyway to do so. That method has worked fine tbh. All are Honeywell Thermostats.
Any help or guidance much appreciated. I have gotten pretty familiar with the Logamatic controls so if anyone wants me to run through readings I can if that would be helpful. Then I need someone knowledgeable about Buderus product in CT eventually to come dial this in. Finally, do I run any serious risk of damage to the boiler by running it in this Emergency Mode or impossible to say..?
Thanks again.
0
Comments
-
#1 Low on pressure or stuck gauge
#2 Do not need a 2107 you need the temp rise, especially for hydro -air. Yes it is useless in this application.You need the temp rise.
#3 Emergency/manual mode causes the domestic/hot water circ. to run constantly. so whatever the boiler temp is so is your HW.
My 2 cents.. Control hot water with separate aquastat and relay. Set switch to manual, temp @ 180 done
No difference in fuel consumption. Really, it is splitin' hairs.
0 -
Can’t really follow your question very well, when you put it on automatic mode, you say the burner goes out. Does the burner icon show up on the screen? If it doesn’t, it’s probably a programming, set up issue. If the burner icon still shows up and the burner goes out, that’s not good.
2107 and air handler’s were never my fave. Gotta raise the offset.0 -
Sorry for the incoherent initial post and wow you guys are quick to respond. I am posting as much info as I can below off the way it is currently programmed in hopes it helps.
first tho, @GW - The burner icon does appear and then goes out shortly afterwards. It will repeat this a couple times and then eventually fire successfully for a long period all with air handlers running. The issue is I dont get nothing but cool air. HW last for a bit but in the end those pressure gauges both dump out to 0 after a while and then eventually air handlers stay cranking and HW production keeps slowly dropping et. I am wondering if the water in the system is the issue? I think @BDR529 was going here with his post and what he describes in #1. Anyhow I notice the Taco Low Water Control seems to cut it off when it tries to run in AUT but I could be wrong about this.
Below are all the programmed settings:
Room Temp - 86F
Pump logic - 104F
max temp 1 - 194 F
Freeze temp - 41F
Bldg Resp - 1
Reference Temp - 180
Using SETBACK
offset - 9
0 -
And sorry, I mean given what you know , which I realize is not enough not having diagnosed yourselves. am I running the risk of seriously messing this thing up by running it in emergency mode ? I mean it seems to work fine in this scenario so i dont know.0
-
Should not have press drop, 20-22PSI happy as a clam.
Will never get any heat out of it @ 140-150 range.
Will not hurt it in emergency mode but you got zero control over the HW, careful of scalding above 120!
If you got a 155/WS thats an upfired Riello with 185PSI pump press. Some Riellos get cranky with the high pump press running on blended fules.
Buderus makes a Cold start control that looks like the 2107 but would fit your application perfect.
Ok, Address press drop and get rid of the 2107.
Wouldn't it be nice to get the chill out of the house At 40 degrees?0 -
If you have zero on the pressure gauge, that means the boiler and the system are low on water and you're running the risk of dry-firing the boiler. That is extremely dangerous! Shut it OFF and allow it to cool down. Then look at the fill valve to see if there's a manual bypass where you can fill the boiler to 15 psi. If so, you can turn it back on, but your fill valve needs to be replaced.
The reason the burner fires in manual is because you're over-riding the ODR feature.
Again: DON'T FIRE THE BOILER until there's 15 psi on it and the air is bled out.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Thanks guys. Appreciate the insight and continued advice. The boiler in emergency mode is retaining pressure of solid 20PSI on the nose without deviation and the temp of the boiler on gauge is around 190 or so. Heat and HW delivery is good. Just sucks the Logamatic BS cant work. I will have to have someone out at some point but looking for alternatives. Does anyone know someone who can handle this type of setup near Monroe CT? thanks again0
-
It’s a bummer tracking down guys that work on 2107. Most hearing guys are terrified of them
Your pressures seem weird/ it’s going 20 to 0 to 20?
Your settings seem correct.0 -
Yea most seem to run the other way.I wish I hadn't gotten this damn thing now but I really didn't have any idea of the ridiculous tuning required. I knew almost immediately after install that things might be problematic because I had to have the installing company out several times to get things right. anyhow, yea to your question it maintains everything as it should just fine in emergency mode pressure all good and sustains the heat and hw load without issue. Move it to AUT on the switch on the logamatic and all goes to $hit. If anyone has any recommendations for Buderus service pros in my area would be grateful.0
-
No you have a great boiler ... Keep it on auto and run the outdoor reset ...
You may have a water logged expansion tank and a stuck feed valve or it just may be shut off . Check the feed , juice the fast fill to see if it's stuck . If it seems loose check the water going into the feed valve . If it free up , beware of relief valve poping off on temperature rise .. Tank will be water logged , replace....There was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
Did you check the moon (night) temperature? Maybe the clock is messed up and the moon is too low
Your room temp is the day setting0 -
@GW thanks i will check that. Last night I noticed 'BOILER SENSOR ERROR' displayed on the Logamatic gui. While Im going to guess that could likely be a number of different things, am I posing a serious threat to continuing to run the boiler with this error present? Seems to still be functioning but Logamatic not indicating Boiler temp as a result .thanks0
-
It would be a rare event for the boiler to harm itself, highly unlikely1
-
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 52 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 913 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 380 Solar
- 14.8K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements