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Plumbing a new wall toilet

hankwylerjrhankwylerjr Member Posts: 61
I'm about to run a 3 inch sewer line from my old cast waste in my basement up through to my attic. I already have a pipe chase and installed a ten foot piece of 3 inch pvc. I'm looking to install a floor toilet but it's going to be a model like the wall toilets because I don't have the room to get a decent pitch. Any ideas or suggestions would be great. I'm familiar with most basic plumbing just don't want to glue everything to find out it's not right thanks in advance

Comments

  • I like the Grohe wall carriers. There's a bit of a learning curve, but relatively easy to install. Lots of youtube videos.

    I believe all the carriers need a 2 x 6 wall.

    Stay with cast iron pipe, especially in the attic where there's living space below. PVC is very noisy.


    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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  • claptonvclaptonv Member Posts: 10
    I just installed a Kohler and they make both 2x6 and 2x4 wall carrier ,it was pretty straight forward . Im a 40 yr building trade plumber and always want each fixture vented . Mine was put into a concrete block wall and I did put a piece of steel across the top to carry the block load so was a bit more work but its a 2x4 carrier and cant create stoppage if I wanted to , only draw back is the diameter of the water pool is small and have to give the mini flush ( pee pee flush ) to wet the china so the poop doesnt hit dry china and need constant cleaning
  • hankwylerjrhankwylerjr Member Posts: 61
    I like these wall toilet style. I'm looking into it now but I am worried about the 3 inch pvc. I am not an expert on the way the pipes will exactly run. I'd like to upload a sketch of my proposed design not sure if this will be the correct forum? Thanks for the help
  • claptonvclaptonv Member Posts: 10
    worried in what way ?
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,028
    There are also conventional tank toilets with the outlet out the back like a commercial toilet, that might be much less costly.
  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 10,665
    If it helps I'm currently ripping all my cast iron out and replacing it with PVC.


    PVC is noisy but cast iron has its own problems that are much worse.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • claptonvclaptonv Member Posts: 10
    if youre worried about 3 inch being too small , dont since its larger than trapway of toilet . the carrier was about 425 $ and toilet the same ; about the cost of a Kohler one piece san raphael which i think flush fantastic , but the nickel actuator plate was not cheap 125 $ i think mostly plastic
  • mattmia2 said:

    There are also conventional tank toilets with the outlet out the back like a commercial toilet, that might be much less costly.

    Less costly, but way more troublesome in my opinion. And you don't save space like you do with the carrier system. The tank is in the wall.

    There is also a coolness factor.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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  • sallaberrysallaberry Member Posts: 19
    Just use primer and you’ll be fine I wouldn’t waste time or money on a wall mount unless that’s the look your going for.
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,028
    The standard tank toilet will also use standard parts you can get at any hardware store.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,086


    If something like this works for you. This type of toilet sits on the floor but discharges out the back and not the floor. They are residential toilets that has conventional repair parts readily available when needed. You do not need a wall carrier for this type of toilet, so it is also more economical to purchase.
    The rear discharge gives you the room for more pitch as you say you need in your first post. Hope this helps.
    mattmia2
  • hankwylerjrhankwylerjr Member Posts: 61
    @Intplm. looks like a great idea going to look at them but probably buy one. Do you have any idea of how to install? Standard 3 inch pvc elbows to the main I'm assuming. I'm going to tie them into my existing 2 inch vent with a tee. I have to cut a piece out of the cast 4 inch vertical main and install a fernco angled tee or something. Any idea what to use to tie that it with the proper parts? Thanks
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,086
    Commonly, you would install the drain the same way on the wall as you would on the floor.
    Most, not all, are bolted with a common closet flange. All you should have to do is install the flange on the wall according to the manufacturer's instructions.
    hankwylerjr
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,028
    I assume all your 90's should be long sweep in the waste side of it.

  • Often wrong, never in doubt.

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  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,086
    @mattmia2 long sweeps are a good idea. The only place they are not required however is the discharge of a toilet.
    And @Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes on the above drawing, where it shows a 3 x 2 low heel 90.
    That should be a 3 x 2 x 3 tee wye. Offering a 2 inch vent.
    mattmia2
  • Alan (California Radiant) ForbesAlan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 2,129
    edited February 6
    That's exactly what a 3 x 2 low heel 90 is. At least, that's what we call them out West.


    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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    Intplm.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,086
    Ah! Very good. @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

    A 3 x 2 in my neck of the woods here in New England is three inch on the run of the TY and two inch on the branch.

    But when a change in dimension is on the run it would be a three by two by three inch TY.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,086
    Either either, neither niether🙂
  • I think you're absolutely right on the 3x2x3 @Intplm. , but for some reason, we've always called it 3x2.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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    rick in AlaskaIntplm.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 6,624
    I have never roughed in a floor mount/wall outlet WC.
    Is there any provisions for vertical adjustment?
    If not then the final finished floor needs to be considered for exact alignment.
  • You have to be right on the money, otherwise the wax ring will not mate with the horn of the toilet.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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    JUGHNE
  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 10,665

    You have to be right on the money, otherwise the wax ring will not mate with the horn of the toilet.

    Aren't you suppose to install the wax ring on the toilet first?

    I know............that's going to start some arguments. >:)
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • @ChrisJ "Aren't you suppose to install the wax ring on the toilet first?"

    Different technique, same result, no?
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 10,665

    @ChrisJ "Aren't you suppose to install the wax ring on the toilet first?"

    Different technique, same result, no?

    I've yet to do one, but will soon. So I can't comment. Even then, after doing one I won't have an opinion.

    I'm just parroting the arguments I've seen all over regarding it.

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 1,086
    I have installed them.
    Wax on the bowl horn or the closet flange? It really doesn't matter.
    As long as the rough in measurements are correct, the installation should be just fine.
    The tank bolts install the same too.
    The bowl will also fasten to the floor with lag screws or equivalent fasteners, along with some extra bolt caps to hide the screws used in the floor.
  • TAGTAG Member Posts: 200
    I'm on my second project using wall toilets -- Geberit carrier for 2x6 walls and Duravit toilets with rim flush and the special glass coating. Work great .. the control plates are expensive if you want metal. I like floating vanities -- so these go well.
  • TAG said:

    I'm on my second project using wall toilets -- Geberit carrier for 2x6 walls and Duravit toilets with rim flush and the special glass coating. Work great .. the control plates are expensive if you want metal. I like floating vanities -- so these go well.

    A much better option (in my opinion). More expensive, but it's a very clean look and there's no footprint on the floor; easy cleaning.

    Every time I've seen those Kohler floor mounted, rear flushing toilets, the floor and sheetrock are stained from leaks.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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  • hankwylerjrhankwylerjr Member Posts: 61
    Anyone have an idea on how to get this cast iron drain to accept a sanitary tee or other fernco setup to allow me to run my new 3 inch pvc drain from the attic both toilet sink properly and fairly cost effective? Thinking of Sawzall look for a tee or other fitting cut out a small section so I can get it done
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,028
    I would cut it above that saddle and pull everything out of that hub just above the floor and replace that, the cleanout, and your new y with pvc and use a fernco doughnut or lead and caulk the pvc in to that hub. You might need to cut the floor and connect to the ell below the floor or connect with a hubless fitting to the horizontal portion below the floor.

    You can cut it with a sawzall, an angle grinder, a combination of both, or you can rent a tool with a chain with cutters that wraps around the pipe and tightens down and snaps it.
    hankwylerjr
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 6,624
    I have made that connection with your situation without cutting any cast iron or concrete.

    IIWM, I would remove the PVC clean out plug/fitting that is on the base of the CI stack.
    Replace it with a 3" PVC WYE, the branch of the wye would face straight up for your bath DWV connection, the run of the wye would go into the CI wye branch and the other end of the run would get the CO plug.

    I would try to compact the assembly/clean it up by using a 4 X 3 Fernco donut directly into the CI CO branch. (No rubber couplings would be showing that way---sturdier connection also)
    Then a Fitting CO adapter with plug into the PVC wye.
    You may have to relocate the cold water hose bib on the wall.

    May not meet some codes, but I have done it several times with no problem. Good flow connections and you will vent your bathroom group upstairs separately anyway.

    The existing PVC saddle on the side of the stack may not be code either.
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • hankwylerjrhankwylerjr Member Posts: 61
    @JUGHNE codes here are pretty lax here no worries. I however have a problem with your proposed setup. My 3 inch will come straight down on the other side (right side) of the now pvc cleanout. Can I still somehow get this to work? Use some elbows at the top etc? ty
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 6,624
    I would come straight up and then use 45's to match up with your new drop.
    Easier with 90's, but the 45's give better and quieter flow.
    If needed I make a long sweep 90 with a street 45 glued into a standard 45.

    What does that 2" with the trap on it drain?
  • hankwylerjrhankwylerjr Member Posts: 61
    @JUGHNE I might draw something take it to plum supply so Im certain of the parts... that 2 inch is a front load washer it shouldnt be an issue but like i said trying to come down about a foot away to the right of the main cast will be interesting for me Im assuming
  • If you don't mind doing the extra work, cut a new wye into the stack. Get rid of that saddle tee at the same time.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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    mattmia2
  • mattmia2mattmia2 Member Posts: 1,028
    If you want it to be legal, the cleanout needs to be the size of the line that it is cleaning or larger.
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