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How to refill boiler system after draining

JayDJayD Posts: 3Member
So I have a leak coming from the gate valve that lets the water from the street into my boiler. I’d like to fix it but have no idea how to go about Filling it back up after service. I’m not really good with boilers so please if you can walk me thru how to refill the boiler back up? The only other thing I can note is that the boiler is on 1 single loop around my one story house. It’s not an option for me to call a tech everytime a drip appears on my floor, so that’s out of the question. Also the hvac tech who was here last installed the yellow ball drain valve in one of the pics and used it to take the air out of the system. It worked great and my heat was in all vents and was very quiet. Would love to know how to use that as well. Please explain like you’re talking to a dumb child, which I might as well be when it comes to this. If I need to post more pics please let me know. I appreciate any help I can get.




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Comments

  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,844Member
    The bigger problem is your venting-boiler and water heater, it's not up to code.
    If I were explaining it to a 'dumb child', I'd say..."Go get an adult". :)
    Your system is very simple to fill/purge thanks to that new valve.
    However, who's going to replace the valve?

    You should have an auto feed valve with backflow preventer. A low water cut-off would be wise also.

    In your case, you're going to have to drain the system, and shut the water off to then entire house. And if your main shut off doesn't hold, you have more problems.

    This is a simple fix for a plumber or hydronics person who will most likely shut the water off, drain the system, press or solder a new shut off/water feed/backflow preventer, and purge the system.

    For purging It's harder to explain than it is to just show you. I can't see the valve orientation, but basically you are going to hook a hose up to that new valve, close that valve. Open up the water feed fast fill and run water thru the system and out that hose into a sink, maintaining about 20 psi. I usually put a 5 gallon bucket in the sink and bury the hose into it so I can see when all the air is purged. Then you'll have to close the fast feed valve and open that new valve at the same time. Then close the new valve again just to drain a little water off to get the pressure down to 12 psi, hopefully your pressure gauge works.
    While you have the system drained you can save yourself from future eventual expensive repairs by adding the low water cut-off now, and changing the connection to the expansion tank to a Webstone expansion tank shut-off valve. Then you can isolate/check the charge of the expansion tank. And when the expansion tank goes bad, you won't have to drain the system again, just close the valve and swap out the tank.
    steve
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 6,533Member
    What part of the valve is leaking?
  • JayDJayD Posts: 3Member
    edited January 17
    Thank you so much steve, i’m at work atm but still have a few question, regarding how to raise the psi to the boiler. The valve I was referring to is the gate valve just to the right and back behind the ball drain valve that brings water in from the street because it’s an open system . My main water line should be able to shut off with no problem, but it is old so I may have to tighten the packing nut. Im just going to sweat a new one on or pex if I can install pex b without oxygen barrier. Thanks for your help! Also im unsure what a fast feed valve is.
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,844Member
    Are you sure you have an open system as you have a bladder expansion tank?
    Here’s a water feed/backflow combo

    steve
  • JayDJayD Posts: 3Member
    Please forgive my stupidity but you mentioned “ Then you'll have to close the fast feed valve and open that new valve at the same time. Then close the new valve again just to drain a little water off to get the pressure down to 12 psi. Im a tad confused about this part, as im not sure I have a fast feed valve on my system, at least one that looks like the one you pictured. By the new valve do you mean the pressed ball drain valve or the new gate valve? Also theres two valves on the ball drain valve so im unsure which one youre saying to open and close... thanks buddy for your help.
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,844Member
    I'll refer you back to my first post.

    The bigger problem is your venting-boiler and water heater, it's not up to code....

    ...You should have an auto feed valve with backflow preventer. A low water cut-off would be wise also...

    ...This is a simple fix for a plumber or hydronics person who will most likely shut the water off, drain the system, press or solder a new shut off/water feed/backflow preventer, and purge the system...

    steve
  • SuperTechSuperTech Posts: 1,164Member
    > @STEVEusaPA said:
    > I'll refer you back to my first post.(Quote)

    Steve that system is equipped with a fill-trol type of expansion tank. The amount of air pressure in the bladder of the tank and the funky brass fitting between the tank and air scoop control boiler pressure. Usually the bladder fails or the fitting becomes plugged with sediment. I'd remove and test/check both the tank and fitting and replace if necessary.
    Usually I have to hook my hose up to the water heater or washing machine connection to purge the system. Fill troll setups suck, I usually recommend replacing them with a proper pressure reducing fill valve and backflow preventer and #30 extrol tank.
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