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Help - minimum gypcrete thinkness for in floor heat
zem
Member, Email Confirmation Posts: 2
We are building a new home and our contractor has ran into a conflict with our door heights and planned in floor heating system. An option that is being considered is to reduce the gypcrete to 1 inch versus 1.5. Please let me know what the consequences of that would be. Seems like the heating system would be much less efficient with a third less gypcrete?
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Comments
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Sounds like the framers were unaware or forgot about the gypcrete?
I would consult the gypcrete manufacture. I would be concerned about cracking. They may have a way to strengthen the mix. I don't think there would be a huge effect on transfer efficiency, you could tighten the tubing spacing if needed."If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein0 -
I don't think it would affect the efficiency of the floor system. The danger is the thickness of the gypcrete from the top of the tubing to the surface not being strong enough. Radiant flooring and gypcrete is an expensive system when done right, Astronomical if it is messed up.
Raise the framing or cut down the doors.0 -
actually a huge sliding door was installed too low so now they are trying to find a way to lower the floor. the ideas are shrink the gypcrete and lessen the thickness of the wood floor being selected. As owner I am leaning to just ordering a new door....0
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If it were my house. I would push back and get the door installed correctly.0
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Are you an owner/builder?
If you have hired a contractor to manage the job, this mistake should be on them."If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein0 -
You want a min. 3/4 over the tube. if you used 3/8" tube 1/2" OD you could get away with 1-1/4" thickness.
Or use the Uponor or Viega 5/16 tube, gets you to a 1-1/8" pour.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Will Uponor Quik Trak, or Viega Climate Panel work with your finished flooring?0
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For me the gyp gets you a medium mass system, some additional mass, not as much as a 4" slab.
Plus floor leveling, fires stop and noise control, if that is any benefit.
If not, any of the "dry" over the top systems could work. I like the Roth system, the 3/8 panels add 1/2". Some flooring can attach directly to it, 3/4 nail down hardwood.
In bathrooms we added cement backerboard, 1/2" then tile. I think you can find 1/4 backerboard.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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