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Radiator sounds like it is boiling water inside of it

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Comments

  • SteamingatMohawk
    SteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 1,025
    I'm retired, too, and having the capability to instantly adjust between orifice capabilities or go below the #4 is worth the cost. I have a 4 unit rental house (I don't live there) with 9 radiators on two floors and am too lazy to go up and down the stairs disrupting tenants, unlocking security entry doors each time I go into an apartment that's not in the end of the house where the stairs to the basement are.

    Admittedly, the exercise is probably good for me.

    Enjoy.
  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
    I haven't actually tried it yet, but it looks like it would be pretty easy to make an adjustable Gorton vent by slipping a sleeve of 7/16" ID brass tubing over the thing at the top where the vent port is. You could either drill a hole in the sleeve and adjust it by rotating it to change the alignment of the holes or—much easier—sliding the sleeve up or down.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • SteamingatMohawk
    SteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 1,025
    Patent it!
    BobCHap_Hazzard
  • gfrbrookline
    gfrbrookline Member Posts: 753
    I am a Condo manager and I really like Ventrite No. 1's but you can't always rely on the knob being calibrated correctly, so below 3 can be touch and go. For anything that low I use the G4.
  • SteamingatMohawk
    SteamingatMohawk Member Posts: 1,025
    That works, if you don't need more restriction than a G4.

    I have one apartment that is on the first floor the closest to the boiler, has the chimney in it, is on the south side of the house and has two pipes that supply an upstairs apartment. On top of that the tenant likes it cool and I take care of my "Peeps". So, I had to resort to a vent that can be even slower than a G4.
  • gfrbrookline
    gfrbrookline Member Posts: 753
    edited February 2020
    If there isn't slower vent could you put a smaller radiator in the unit. I have swapped radiators around in my building to add and subtract heat from various rooms with good success. Made more sense to me to match the radiator to the room than to slow or speed the vent.
  • Matthewdg73
    Matthewdg73 Member Posts: 38
    ethicalpaul said:

    You may be the first person to say it out loud, but I know when I first saw it I was like "that radiator is massive"

    That's why earlier I asked what his complaint was...I'd be happy if it worked at all :)

    The slow vent will help, but once the air is gone, nothing is going to hold back an awful lot of condensate trying to pass by an awful lot of steam in a 1" pipe

    Paul,

    Other than ripping up walls in the house to replace the 1" pipe with something bigger, which may or may not fit in the design of the house (built in the 40's), would removing the 30 section radiator and replacing it with a smaller one somewhat correct the issues. This radiator is in our bedroom and let me tell you, this thing keeps the room toasty. I know this will throw off the EDR of the system and make the oversized boiler (by 34 btu's) I have now even more oversized. sigh, why can't people just do right when installing systems instead of half a**ing things, sigh.

  • Matthewdg73
    Matthewdg73 Member Posts: 38
    edited February 2020
    Harry_6 said:

    Unless I missed it in all of the comments, isn't 1" pipe feeding a 30 section one-pipe radiator at least one, possibly two, sizes too small?

    If I was to replace the radiator what would be the max size to put on a 1" pipe (second floor, if that makes a difference)? Thank you!

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