Rough/Rumble Running Likely Due to Crud Sludge

BinDerSmokDat

I'm running a Weil-McLain Gold WTGO circa 1997-98 with Beckett AFG Burner running a Delavan 1.0gph 80deg B nozzle and a Suntec A2VA-3006 oil pump and 10 micron Westwood spin-on.

It is running rough and twice it had a misfire in the last week requiring me to hit the reset.
It hasn't been serviced in about a year and I'm in the process of switching out the old tank which I know had a sludge problem.
Currently running out of a 30 gallon drum with clean fuel until the new tank is in place. Line from drum to burner is clean 3/8" copper tubing.

It is running rough and rumbly, especially at start, with the burn seemingly improving as it fires for a little while. I'm only running the boiler for hot water right now; the Mistubishi divorced mount AC/heat exchangers keep my small rancher comfortable.

Money is a little tight and I have cleaned the basket and nozzle before, albeit ten years ago. I can't afford a few hundred or more for a service call right now but for under $30 in parts and a little time, I think I can perform a basic service. I think it is igniting fine but not atomizing well due to crud, I will check the ignition, vacuum and brush out blower inlets, and check/clean elbow/chimney connection.

Question: If I go to the supply house and pick up a new strainer, pump gasket and nozzle, replace and put a new filter on, I should be good? That is basically a tune-up sans combustion meter check, right?

Jamie Hall

Your basic diagnosis is probably about right. However, there is a good deal more to a tuneup than just changing the nozzle and all. Electrode settings, depth of insertion, and then the air adjustments -- since every nozzle is a little bit different, try as they might. Also the fire side of the heat exchanger should be thoroughly cleaned. You probably won't be much worse off... but you really can't do it right without the instruments.

BinDerSmokDat

I can check the physical measurements of the electrode (gap, nozzle to tip, above center).
I can also check nozzle to head depth and total air tube stickout.
I will clean the CAD.
I can clean the air inlets, blower and burner housing.
I will check and clean the flue and heel.
Shouldn't be much in the chamber to clean when I swing the door open right?

That is all easy enough.

As for air adjustments since I don't have instruments, I'm reluctant to mess with them. I'll note the current position of all air parts and reassemble. What is the worse case? I'm running a little lean or rich for a few weeks?

I've never had the top off to clean the flueways. There IS a brush hanging in the basement for 20 years since I moved in, but I've never used it. I'll take a look, since cleaning them seems to be low-risk of messing anything up.

Anything else to check? Like I said, I don't have combustion instrumentation, but I have voltmeter, vacuum gauge on filter housing and a little common sense. It is running now, so it's not like I'm diagnosing a dead unit from scratch.

Anything else I should check?

BinDerSmokDat

One other thing, I will log everything I do and replace, with part numbers so when I get it professionally serviced, I can get feedback from the tech on how I did.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@BinDerSmokDat

Not sure what you mean by "It hasn't been serviced in about a year" and "I've never had the top off to clean the flueways. There IS a brush hanging in the basement for 20 years since I moved in, but I've never used it"

So the question is has a professional serviced this or not?

Sounds like you need a pro....your heading in the wrong direction

BinDerSmokDat

It was serviced professionally a year ago, full tune-up and cleaning.

The brush was hanging in the basement next to the boiler when I moved in. It hasn't been used by ME. And the professional techs bring there own.

Anyways, changed the filter, basket strainer (new pump cover gasket) and nozzle, adjusted ignition.

The top of the filter was VERY sludged and when I poured out the contents, it was 1/3rd water and crud. The filter was doing it's job though, only a few flecks of crud on the strainer. Probably fine stuff that got past the filter and accumulated in a low spot on the flexible fuel line, then broke loose and caught by strainer. At less than $3 for strainer and gasket, didn't even attempt to clean it, just swapped it. Nozzle looked clean too, but replaced it since I had it out.

$17 in parts, including tax and it's running much better. I'll swing the door open, clean inside, check flue/heel and pop top off Friday to clean.