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Electric boiler temp

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Comments

  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
    edited November 2019
    Those look like check valve isolation flanges, are they, and are they on all 3 pumps.
    No the garage and bonus room need to be controlled separately.
    Separate thermostats.
    Was the tubing installed on 2" blue or pink Styrofoam? Perimeter 4' foam around the home.
    Something is wrong especially with a ICF home.
    Do you have a air exchanger?
    D
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,611
    Are you on some sort of "demand metering"? That can have a huge impact on electric charges.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Yes the garage and bonus have separate t stats ... actually all 3 rooms use the same rehau digital stat, yes built to code
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Yes to air exchange a Hrv 60 one for the house and the exact same one for the garage
  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
    Where is the bonus room? Above the garage? Tubing also in concrete?
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Yes bonus above garage yes also in concrete , and yes I believe to check valves ....I will get a better pic
  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
    What temps is the odr control set for?
    Has this system recently started doing this? Or has it done this for the last 7 years.
    D
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Never was right from day 1
    As I recall my first hydro bill with it on was close to 700😡😔😔😔
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Check vslve
  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
    Are you on time of day or demand heating? Where the electric company shuts down the power to the boiler for a set time period if they so chose. Usually give you a price reduction for this.
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    No such thing here in Manitoba... on all the time same rate
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    That out door reset is pre programmed and non adjustable.... I’m not sure about it
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,611
    Do the rooms generally get up to setpoint and stop heating or do they overshoot the setpoint temp?
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Eventually yes they do ... no it does not over shoot
  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
    Earlier @Zman posted a heat calc chart form. That is a wonderful tool to compare different heat sources. Take the time to plug in numbers in that chart. Call around for lp gas, and oil prices. Put them in the chart for a full comparison. Numbers don't lie, and I use that tool all the time. We are all in different parts of the world so everyone's numbers are different. I'd be curious how your numbers look with the comparison of elect, lp, oil.

  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,611
    Gta said:

    I don’t think the current boiler is either set up right or is running correctly.... I spoke to another guy last nite in another town and he heats a 1700 sq ft home with a 25 kw boiler, he says it hardly ever turns on and his heat bills are bout 150 a month ..... I think I’ve got more issues going on

    I have a couple of buddys who claim great fuel economy in their trucks and credit it to a fantastic fuel-saving product they have installed. When I go on road trips with them and fill their tank, I notice that they get the same mileage as everyone else.

    Bottom line. Don't believe claims that you have not verified. Energy cannot be created or destroyed. If you are putting energy into the home and it is not overshooting the setpoint, that may be as efficient as it gets. What is the cost per KW? It would be helpful to know how much energy you are using, not just what the monthly bill is.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
    Solid_Fuel_Man
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Ok , I just checked the elements... 12 Olm’s of resistance each ... so all good there .

    I have a question about the manifolds and flow . The lines are 1/2 inch pex . From the fully closed position if I open them 1/2 a turn I get aprox .5 or so on the flow meter . I can continue to open them a full 3 turns and have no difference register on the flow meters .

    What is the correct way to adjust these? Currently I have them at a full 3 turns open,
    Maybe this is creating too much flow and causing the boiler not to be able to keep up?

    Opinions? Thx s
  • Solid_Fuel_Man
    Solid_Fuel_Man Member Posts: 2,646
    If all your tubing loops are within 10% length of each other you just open all the valves like you did. I have the same.manifolds in my own home. 0.6 Gpm is correct with your NRF-22 pump. Dont get caught up on flows.
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    NRF 25 pumps in speed 2

    I have had it in speed 3 and noted the whole house and garage felt more even ... verified via infrared thermometer...

    What would the head loss be on a 300 ft 1/2 pex line?

    I want to ensure I have enough pump
    Thx s
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Maybe instead of a second boiler I should just get a 28 kw to replace the 23 I have
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,950
    edited November 2019
    Do you have natural gas available? Replacing that thing with an appropriately sized mod con might pay for itself in a couple years.

    Never mind. I see this was already covered.
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    No natural gas available
  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
    At anytime does the system not keep the setpoint of the thermostats? That would be just not maintaining heat for long periods, not just a quick cold spell.
    Still don't understand the garage and bonus room. The zones and pumps are separate, so their operation should be different, no?
    Getting a larger electric boiler will definitely increase your electric usage. I just don't see that as a solution. You haven't mentioned not being warm or unsatisfied with the heat settings/temps.
    If that is the case you have plenty of btu's with your current boiler.
    The only other way to reduce your heating costs is to look at LP, or oil.
    D
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    It does reach the set points , it just runs a long time to achieve it .... the periods of off time are little to none , by the time one zone stops calling the others start. I keep it cooler as the thought of turning it up and eating more energy is keeps the stat low .
  • Solid_Fuel_Man
    Solid_Fuel_Man Member Posts: 2,646
    If you are able to reach and maintain set point, your boiler is big enough.

    A larger boiler would run a bit less, but cost more to run when it is on, so it's a total wash. Dont waste your money on a bigger boiler.

    Can you get us real numbers on oil and LP? That will be your answer. Electric is electric, you are making heat and heat is leaving.

    Only way to pay less to heat a structure, all else being equal is a different (cheaper) source of heat. We just dont know what is least expensive in Manitoba.
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
    DZoro
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    I’m meeting with another HVAC guy this am to go over this system and talk over a possible replacement, hydro here is currently 8 c a kw ... they are going up 8% per year till 2024 🙄🙄🙄.... I gotta change something another 40 percent more will not be doable
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,398
    do you need to heat the garage? Dropping that off, or to a lower temperature will reduce operating cost.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Yes ... it’s totally finished just like the house inside , it’s set low at 12c
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Does anyone know about the specific settings in these t stats?

    See pic attached
  • vibert_c
    vibert_c Member Posts: 69
    @Gta said “I spoke to another guy last nite in another town and he heats a 1700 sq ft home with a 25 kw boiler, he says it hardly ever turns on and his heat bills are bout 150 a month ..... I think I’ve got more issues going on”

    I have a hunch the builder of your system neglected to use at least 4” of SM insulation around the perimeter of your slab in the original install. A case here in Ontario back in 2006 revealed only 1” under the slab and none around the perimeter. His monthly invoice for hydro was 1400.- when he threw up his hands to give up. Sold his can of worms to another radiant buff.

    An FLIR camera might reveal to you where the heat is escaping in your case.

    vibert_c
    CanuckerSolid_Fuel_Man
  • Gta
    Gta Member Posts: 151
    Hi again

    Thx for all the replies ,

    I have another question, the feed/ return lines to my main manifold... they are part 1/14 steel and then go to 1/14 pex ... at the transition point it seems to reduce down a lot ... is this restriction affecting my heat out put to my main manifold? The manifold has 11 /300 ft runs . I will attach a pic , thx Sean

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