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Thoughts on layout.

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JackW
JackW Member Posts: 236
edited October 2019 in Radiant Heating
I've partially plumbed up my system, please take a look and let me know if I need to change and/or add anything. The tee's below the boiler are for drain valves not shut offs.
Thanks.


Comments

  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    Your closely spaced tees are not correct. The should move left so the water does not prefer to go straight.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
    JackW
  • GroundUp
    GroundUp Member Posts: 1,907
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    In addition to the above, your gas regulator cannot be in a vertical position like that unless the vent is piped outdoors. Also, where are your return lines from the radiant?
    JackWlchmb
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
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    GroundUp what vent are you referring too? I have to raise the return lines, I haven't done that yet.
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
    edited October 2019
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    Zman I assume you mean the two tee's just left of the boiler, if so is it 4X or 8X of pipe diameter between tees? This is the plan that I am roughly following.


  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,144
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    Be nice to have the tees better positioned, it will work as shown.
    Watts Radiant HydroControl panels were built like that and worked fine.

    But it looks like the boiler is injecting into the return loop of the secondary. The tees should be in the upper piping?



    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    JackW
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    In your picture it would be 8" to the left and 4" to the right. As Hot rod said, many systems are piped similar to what you did and I think they perform OK. I would not drain down and tear apart a system piped as you did, but it would be easy to correct at the stage you are at.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,838
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    Shared Piping? How many Gallons Per Minute (GPM) are you required to move thru the boiler for proper operation. Will 3/4" copper be sufficient?

    In reference to "Zman" comment above. when using a "Primary/Secondary" piping design, the Supply and Return pipe from the Primary (Heater) loop MUST enter the Secondary Loop at Tees located on a strait pipe as shown in the picture you have taped to the boiler. The actual piping you have will create a greater pressure difference (across the short pipe between the tees) than you want. This will cause water to flow to the path of least resistance and that may not be the path you want it to go. Remove the 2 pipes indicated by the blue X and place them where I have indicated with the red vertical lines.

    Check that diagram you have on the boiler for pipe sizes to see if you need to Increase to 1".
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
    JackW
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,144
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    Here is an example of a P/S piping where you see the first mixer piped off the run of a tee, none of the common P/S rules followed for spacing, distance before the tees, etc :) These panels have been and still are manufactured like this 30 years or more.

    I suspect it is more of a space saving design. The Danfoss/ Robert Bean designed ZCP boxes were piped even tighter than this Watts design, it all fit into a 12" square box!

    By all means follow the accepted piping practices, distances, spacing, sizing etc, especially when you have the real estate available in the mechanical room as you do.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    Zman
  • GroundUp
    GroundUp Member Posts: 1,907
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    The vent I'm referring to is the hole the little brass thing is screwed into above the spring in your regulator. That is what they call a "vent limiter" and the reg needs to be in a position that the blue cap is pointed up in order for the limiter to function. You can mount the regulator the way you have it, but that vent limiter needs to be removed and replaced with pipe, that terminates outdoors.
    JackWChrisJ
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
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    Ed what I didn't do was go to the right of the tee's because I didn't have much room and I still wanted to go straight down for the output and return lines, didn't think doing it this way would make a difference but it does so I will change that. Thank you
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
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    Groundup thank you I will change that before I fire it all up.
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
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    Zman so I need to move the left tee 8" to the left then space the right tee 4" to the right of the left tee, like what Ed drew?
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
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    Hot_rod so instead as they have it in the picture should I move both tee's up the line the air eliminator is on?
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    JackW said:

    Zman so I need to move the left tee 8" to the left then space the right tee 4" to the right of the left tee, like what Ed drew?

    Yes.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
    JackW
  • JackW
    JackW Member Posts: 236
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    Here's an adjusted picture from what I think you guys are telling me. I can't thank all of you enough for the help.