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Winkler boiler with Carlin oil burner not working

fireandicefireandice Posts: 1Member
Our oil heat recently stopped working. It's an old system running a Winkler Econo Section Boiler and Carlin Elite Model EZ-1. See attached pictures of setup.

The pump, pump screen, nozzle and oil filter were recently replaced, but still no heat. Those repairs were supposed to be preventative maintenance as heat was working prior.

Oil tank is underground and I think has plenty of oil based on lowering wooden stick into tank.

Unfortunately I don't know the history of the system. ANY suggestions on fixing or upgrading this would be much appreciated.








Comments

  • JellisJellis Posts: 126Member
    Not enough info provided to offer any help.
    is the burner going out on reset? or is there another issue?

    Don't forget, you could easily ruin your boiler or put yourself and others in danger by making the wrong adjustments or changes to the boiler. I highly recommend calling a pro to come take a look at it.
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Posts: 10,644Member
    Most likely problem is that it's lost its prime (doesn't take much of an air leak in some fitting or other) -- or was never properly reprimed after the service.

    However, as @Jellis said, this really isn't something for a homeowner to fix. Find a good service company and get them to come and service the burner and system all over again (I know, I know -- more money. But... if it worked before it was serviced, and doesn't work now...). Have you looked in the "find a contractor" section of this web site?
    Jamie



    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.



    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,063Member
    edited September 9
    You have an underground tank and a 1 pipe oil line.
    First thing for a pro to check is for a vacuum leak or a restriction, then proper priming, then the fuel unit itself, on the oil side.
    Looks like your set up for 1.5 gph, which is underfired, unless they properly raised the pump pressure.
    Did the tech leave a copy of the combustion results from the PM?

    Are these cracks (circled in red)?



    steve
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Posts: 2,318Member
    Does the burner fire?
    Do you have hot water or is it just no heat?
    When you raise the heat does the circulator run? The B&G red pump near the right side wall.
    Side note. The Lo side of the aquastat is at 120°. Raise it to 145°-150° to prevent condensing of the flue gasses and lower the Hi to 180° Max. Differential to 10 or 15.
    Keep a minimum of 20° between Hi and Lo.
  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Posts: 3,063Member
    edited September 10
    I think it’s cold start now, which is probably why they turned the low limit all the way down.
    OP, is the boiler still being used for dhw, with the storage tank?
    As far as upgrading, a proper heat loss would determine if that boiler is worth keeping. If the “5” on the name plate means 5 section, and 2 gph firing rate, then either you’re in a very large leaky house, or the boiler is massively oversized and wasting energy.
    I suspect the latter.
    I see signs of water leaking, flue gas condensing, old energy-hogging circulator, etc.
    A properly sized, properly piped and installed modern efficient boiler with modern controls would save you a lot of money, and provide you with better comfort.
    I’d be surprised if you’re doing better than 50% system efficiency.
    steve
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