Anode Rod Removal

benson2680

Am trying to replace my anode rod in my Bradford -White water heater. (it is at the hot water outlet) I have put WD40 on the threads, and have a large pipe wrench on it. I have tried tapping the wrench with a hammer to free it up, but it won't budge. Any suggestions as how to loosen this up with breaking it off? Thanks

STEVEusaPA

I'd try something like kroil or pb plaster. Many people have had luck with an impact gun and proper size socket

benson2680

there is not a nut on top, i can't use a impact gun with socket, only a pipe wrench

HVACNUT

What model water heater?

benson2680

benson2680

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

They don't make it easy, do they?

I would remove the dielectric union and cut the copper so that it's out of your way. Treat the fitting with Kroil oil and use an offset pipe wrench with a cheater. A three foot piece of 1½ steel pipe will do.

It helps to have another person there because the water heater will want to turn with you when you start wrenching. Have them back you up.

nibs

Read an article some years ago testing penetrating oils,
the best by far was a 50/50 mix of diesel and automatic transmission oil.
Have made my own since reading the test results.

nibs

Am getting old, I was wrong, it is a 50/50 mix of ACETONE and ATF.
SORRY.

Larry Weingarten

Hi, I'm with Alan on this, but have a look at this "Hoe" wrench from 1922. You can still find them on Ebay and it likes being used with a cheater Leave the tank mostly full of water to help steady it. I put a foot on the side of the gas control also when pulling on the wrench. Another trick is to put an easy-out or large bolt in the nipple so it won't collapse. That helps keep it from tearing off.

Yours, Larry

HVACNUT

What size pipe wrench? I would remove the exhaust hood to get a better bite and leverage.
Have a new anode rod ready to go because its likely the threads will score or the nipple will crush.

hot_rod

If you leave the fitting on the nipple, the dielectric union, put the wrench below if possible that will help keep the nipple from "egging" out. The more the nipple distorts from round the tougher the pull.

benson2680

i will remove the hot water outlet pipe when the new anode arrives, the pic is showing a 14" pipe wrench, and I can get a good grip without moving the the exhaust hood.

EBEBRATT-Ed

a cheater on that wrench will work. I like using electrical EMT light weight and plenty strong. You have to find away to keep the heater from twisting as others have mentioned

@hot_rod & @Larry Weingarten tricks for keeping the fitting from "egg shaping" are excellent and tricks I have used for years.

When you install the new one use Teflon tape and never seize for pipe dope and the next time it will come right out

hot_rod

sometimes a quick, accurate smack with a singlejack will free them up

Do you feel lucky 🍀

Larry Weingarten

We call that the "human impact wrench". It does work.

Yours, Larry

rick in Alaska

I would try tightening it up a little first. More times than not it will tighten up, but not loosen up. if you can move it at all in the tightening direction, then it will unscrew when you go back the other way. Not sure why this works, but it usually does.
Rick

benson2680

thanks for the tips

ChrisJ

I think the blower comes off pretty easy.
I changed the anode in mine a while back and my dad did his several times.

I don't recall anything special other than leaving the heater full so it at least weighed something.

And no, they don't make it easy nor do they want you to know it even exists.