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Removing Diverter Tee

TrumTrum Posts: 5Member
We purchased our house a little over a year ago. The previous owner had remodeled the kitchen and removed the hot water baseboard heaters and capped the lines in the basement at the Diverter tee. One article I read says that is not the correct way. Will this affect the amount of fuel oil used? Will leaving one diverter T in have the same results as having multiple that are capped?

Comments

  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Posts: 10,644Member
    If it's the leg of the diverter T that used to go to the radiator that was capped, no, it won't affect oil consumption, except that the radiator it used to go to isn't using heat -- so it should be reduced slightly. What it will do is affect the work the circulating pump has to do -- but the effect is minor.
    Jamie



    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.



    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • Intplm.Intplm. Posts: 777Member
    edited June 2
    When removing rads on a diverter tee system what I have always done is to connect the branch from one tee to the next with a length of pipe to help with air elimination and venting the system.
    This pipe takes the place of the removed rad below the removed rad in the basement or below the floor.
  • ScottSecorScottSecor Posts: 260Member
    We've always done one of two things. Run a jumper (pipe) from the monoflow tee to the regular tee -or- remove the tees (monoflow and regular) altogether.
  • TrumTrum Posts: 5Member
    This issue is a couple of the capped Monoflo tees are in the ceiling now. Is it worth cutting into the Sheetrock and removing them or putting in a jumper? Is there sufficient cost/energy savings?
  • Intplm.Intplm. Posts: 777Member
    Fuel savings may not be the issue as much as the rest of the radiators heating properly.

    For example: If the radiators that are still in use and they are providing heat, then I would not do anything else.

    If there is air in the system ie. the system makes noise when there is a call for heat than maybe look into a "jumper" or removing the tees completely.

    What I would do before anything major (jumper or removal) would be to purge the system of any air. If you have no noise issues and all radiators are providing heat than purging will not be necessary. Removing the tees or installing a jumper would not be necessary either.

    So check to see if you need to purge first by listening for noise that sounds like coins being shaken in a metal can in the system when the heat comes on.
    If you have that noise than purge and purge again until all air is removed.
    If the purging of air does not go away, it might be time to install a jumper or remove the tees.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    edited June 3
    Are both tees the diverter type? IIUC, there are only two tees of some type?

    And what size is the main branch?
  • TrumTrum Posts: 5Member
    There is definitely air in the system. There is no drain valve. That was the initial issue. When doing the research about how to get air out, I found the article that said to always remove diverter tees. Looks like one is diverter and one is normal. The main for this loop is 1 1/4”.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Posts: 777Member
    Good advice removing the diverter tees then purge the air out.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    It seems that one diverter tee on 1 1/4" main would not be much of a flow problem.
    Has anyone ever considered putting an air vent on the abandoned diverter tees? Seems the diverter would have the effect of an air collector/scoop if on the supply side.
    The return side might pull air in thru the air vent.
    Compression fittings for the riser/air vent would avoid soldering on the 1 1/4" which can be difficult to drain to dry.
    Just a thought.
  • TrumTrum Posts: 5Member
    There are at least two that I know of. One is above a sheet rock ceiling. There might be more about the ceiling. Unsure though.

    Are shark bite fittings acceptable?

  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    If your talking 1/2 or 3/4" I would opt for compression IIWM.
    You can get them copper on one end and male pipe thread on the other if you went for the vent idea.
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