Water leaking from main vent

Benlee

I have a one pipe steam system. Recently replaced boiler approx. 4 years ago. I had a small bit of repiping done last year as part of a kitchen remodel (had to move pipe over about 16 inches.

After the re-piping last March I noticed that the vent at the end of the main (near the boiler at the end of the wet return) was leaking. I replaced the vent and added squick to the boiler. It seemed to calm the leaking for a bit but it was the end of the season. At the beginning of this heating season I had a bit of leaking still, so I tried moving the vent further away from the drop down to the boiler and added a second vent. It seemed to leak every once in a while, but not constantly.

In the past week or so I've noticed it is leaking quite a bit more and water is pouring out of one of the vents.

I don't think the boiler was ever skimmed as the plug for the port is still there. All radiators heat up well.

Tonight I was going to remove the leaky vent and place the other vent right at the top of the elbow and also remove the pigtail to make sure not clogged. When I checked on it this morning I heard the boiler come on, heat for a bit, then the water in the sight glass dropped about 2"+ and the vent started pouring water, then stopped and the cycle continued normally.

I'm at a loss as to why this is happening and how to fix it. Should I call a pro in? I'm on Long Island. I'd rather not spend a ton of money having someone diagnose but I want to fix this before next heating season.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Here are some pics:





Sorry if they are rotated they are in right orientation when I upload....

ImYoungxD

Doesn't look like it's pitched correctly. Can you move the T fitting 90 degrees?

Benlee

@ImYoungxD
It is definitely not pitched correctly. I can't move that T fitting 90 degrees as I wouldn't have clearance as there is piping in the way. I thought of just turning the T into a 90 and using only one vent for now to see if that helped. But I'm concerned even if the pitch is corrected there is another issue at hand because it leaked before when it was closer to the drop (you can see in the second picture).

JUGHNE

If you rotate the tee that has the vents on it 90 degrees then that puts the 2 short horizontal nipples nearly level so they will drain better.....probably not your problem though.

Your wet return below the vents could be plugged and water backing up. Maybe the reason for the water level dropping.
You could close the valve at the boiler at the return and back flush carefully thru the boiler drain....don't wash junk up into the vents. Or remove the vents, plug one opening and carefully check for flow thru the other vent opening by attaching a garden hose there. You do not want water to go up towards the radiators, just out of the boiler drain.

Someone here advise about the Squick...should he drain it all out?

Benlee

ImYoungxD

Does your water in the glass violently jump up and down when it's boiling? Are you losing inches of water and does it come back after a few minutes when boiler is not running? If it does, it probably needs to be skimmed.

Benlee

JUGHNE said:

If you rotate the tee that has the vents on it 90 degrees then that puts the 2 short horizontal nipples nearly level so they will drain better.....probably not your problem though.

Your wet return below the vents could be plugged and water backing up. Maybe the reason for the water level dropping.
You could close the valve at the boiler at the return and back flush carefully thru the boiler drain....don't wash junk up into the vents. Or remove the vents, plug one opening and carefully check for flow thru the other vent opening by attaching a garden hose there. You do not want water to go up towards the radiators, just out of the boiler drain.

Someone here advise about the Squick...should he drain it all out?

So to make sure I have this correct?

Benlee

ImYoungxD said:

Does your water in the glass violently jump up and down when it's boiling? Are you losing inches of water and does it come back after a few minutes when boiler is not running? If it does, it probably needs to be skimmed.

The water level definitely drops considerably but I don't think it does much bouncing. I'm sure it could use skimming because was never skimmed, but not sure how to remove the plug now that it have been there for years and can't even get a good grip with the jacket being in the way. Should I hire a pro to come install a skim port and flush my return? Is that going to cost an arm and a leg?

JUGHNE

As a simple test you could see what comes out of the drain on the wet return. When cold you should drain only the water in the U pipe that is below the water line.
If the water looks sludged or little flow then go for the flushing with the large yellow handle valve closed.

I would use a hose on each end it you were going to "seesaw" flushing water back and forth.
Hopefully you have a floor drain somewhere.

Benlee

JUGHNE said:

As a simple test you could see what comes out of the drain on the wet return. When cold you should drain only the water in the U pipe that is below the water line.
If the water looks sludged or little flow then go for the flushing with the large yellow handle valve closed.

I would use a hose on each end it you were going to "seesaw" flushing water back and forth.
Hopefully you have a floor drain somewhere.

Now that you mention it, I tried to drain the water a few days ago (when cold) and nothing was really coming out (small trickle). I opened it while hot and dirty (somewhat sludgy water came out).

Is there a fitting to go from the 1/2" pipe to something I can afix a hose to? I do not have a floor drain but there is a shower nearby or I can run a hose out the window nearby?

If you don't mind please explain exactly how I should do the flushing. Thanks!

JUGHNE

There are both 1/2 and 3/4 male pipe by male hose fittings.
Get 2 swivel double female hose fittings also.
Get a pipe plug for the air vent that you remove.

I would close the big valve.
The lower drain hose would go into the shower drain.
Out the window is probably to high for draining.
Connect the supply pressure hose to one of the upper vent openings.....plug the other opening.

It would be best if you could monitor the drain hose from your supply valve.
Just pass water for maybe 3 seconds and see if the drain is flowing.....if it is then let it empty
I would repeat until a good flow.

If no success then connect the supply to the lower hose connection. Again just a few seconds of back pressure into the lower connections. You do not want to flow water out of the top connection....it may go upstairs to rads.
You are just trying to break up a plug.
Turn off the lower drain valve and then see if things loosened up.
If you can get the sludge out and draining that is good.
(clean up the shower before your wife sees the mess)

Benlee

Thanks, @JUGHNE

So I'll buy the appropriate hose fitting.

Shut off the big valve so the water doesn't make its way to the boiler. Connect water supply hose to the top (at one of the vents--while plugging the other). Connect another hose to the drain valve (and after ensuring good flow and drainage run water through for a while to clean it out?

Do I have it right?

Thanks again!

JUGHNE

I think you are good to go....that will be nasty water, hopefully, coming out. It will wash out of the shower with some cleaner.

Benlee

JUGHNE said:

I think you are good to go....that will be nasty water, hopefully, coming out. It will wash out of the shower with some cleaner.

Yes, hopefully I can get the drain cover off the shower drain and shove the hose right down in there to avoid having to do much clean up!

JUGHNE

IIWM, I would want to monitor the outflow of the drain hose.
After you are sure of good flow then maybe put hose down.
However, if stuff is coming out it could plug up the drain or even the hose.

JUGHNE

Benlee, do a search on this web site for "Squick".
Part of your problem most likely.

Fred

As @JUGHNE says, get that Squick out of the boiler. That is a big part of your problem. Drain the boiler, flush it out and refill it with clean water. Then, figure out how to get that plug out of the skim port and skim the boiler. Those two things will likely resolve your problem. I don't know how Squick remains on the market. In my opinion, It poses creates a ton of problems and fixes none.

Also, turn that TEE upright and mount one vent on the top of it and the other (the one that doesn't leak) right where it is.

Benlee

Fred said:

As @JUGHNE says, get that Squick out of the boiler. That is a big part of your problem. Drain the boiler, flush it out and refill it with clean water. Then, figure out how to get that plug out of the skim port and skim the boiler. Those two things will likely resolve your problem. I don't know how Squick remains on the market. In my opinion, It poses creates a ton of problems and fixes none.

Also, turn that TEE upright and mount one vent on the top of it and the other (the one that doesn't leak) right where it is.

Thanks!

Ok in the next few days I'll work on draining, flushing and refilling the boiler.

How do I get the plug out of the skim port? Seems like there is too much stuff in the way to get a good handle on it.

Is this something I should attempt myself or call out a pro to install a skim port for me and then do the skimming myself?

I know @Danny Scully services my area based on the "Find a Pro."

I can definitely see what appears to be oil on the top of the water in the sight glass. I'm at a loss why the "pro" I had install this didn't do things correctly and install a skim port!

ImYoungxD

Pretty sure you can remove the pigtail and use that for a skim port.

Benlee

ImYoungxD said:

Pretty sure you can remove the pigtail and use that for a skim port.

I actually removed the pigtail last night and cleaned it out so I know its not a problem to get it out. But I've read varying opinions on whether that port is large enough to properly skim. I guess it would be better than not skimming at all.

What size pipe nipple would I get? (What size is the pigtail?)

ethicalpaul

I wouldn’t waste your time trying to skim the pigtail port. To get to the plug on the skim port you probably have to remove the boiler “jacket”—the exterior panel. That may require removing temporarily some of the near piping or controls.

A good summer project, or call Danny!

JUGHNE

If that plug is a square head then an eight point socket that fits tightly on it and using an impact driver may unscrew it.
I would soak it with PB blaster several time before trying.

Then a 4" long nipple and ball valve with a turn down 90 would skim you well. Put a plug in the 90 when done.

Danny would most likely have that out in no time.
But if you get the wet return clear you may not have water backing up into your vents.

Fred

Do use an Impact wrench or call @Danny Scully . He is excellent. The thing you don't want to do is round the head of that plug before you call him. I think a little PB Blaster and an impact wrench will do the job though.
That 1/4" port that the pigtail is in is too small to be effective for skimming.