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Honewell Zone Valve V8043E gets stuck

Le JohnLe John Posts: 115Member
Yesterday I was notified through the Honeywell Total Comfort app that my temperature in one of the zones had fallen 10 degrees past it's set point prompting an alert to my phone. When I got home and looked at the TACO zone valve controller only the yellow light was illuminated. I looked at the zone's Honeywell Zone Valve V8043E and it appears to have gotten stuck. I had to apply some force to the manual lever but it became free and it opened and the boiler fired. It seems OK now but should I replace the motor? If it got stuck one I'm sure it will happen again. Any assistance is very much appreciated.

Comments

  • Solid_Fuel_ManSolid_Fuel_Man Posts: 1,406Member
    I'd replace the motor/power head assy. You can buy a new valve and remove the 4 screws and replace the packing and rubber ball too.

    Check that you dont see any green stuff around the shaft when you remove the power head.
    Master electrician specialising in boiler and burner controls, multiple fuel systems, radiant system controls, building controls, and universal refrigeration tech.
  • GBartGBart Posts: 753Member
    You may find a deformed ball, I've found them slightly deformed from too much heat during installation, or ??


  • Le JohnLe John Posts: 115Member
    Thank you @Solid_Fuel_Man and @GBart for the info. I'll probably attempt to replace over the weekend. I know its a mechanical device with moving parts that can break but is there a preferred zone valve that you pros like to use?
  • SuperTechSuperTech Posts: 937Member
    I like to to use either the Erie zone valves or the new Taco valves. The Honeywell V8043E have a very high rate of failure, especially when glycol is used. Maybe I'm jaded because that's the majority of what I see in my area, but the quality just isn't there.
    Caleffi makes some nice zone valves as well.
  • Solid_Fuel_ManSolid_Fuel_Man Posts: 1,406Member
    I use the Caleffi Z-One valves exclusively.

    That said you can completely rebuild that Honeywell without any soldering by replacing the square piece with the rubber ball and a new power head. I'd likely do that as it doesn't require removal of the old valve body.
    Master electrician specialising in boiler and burner controls, multiple fuel systems, radiant system controls, building controls, and universal refrigeration tech.
  • Le JohnLe John Posts: 115Member
    I replaced the head. It looks like it was stuck in the open position.
  • Le JohnLe John Posts: 115Member
    Thank you all for the assistance!
  • MikeL_2MikeL_2 Posts: 176Member
    edited March 9
    Often, on older valves, the ball assembly shaft & seal will bind up and not rotate easily. With the motor removed from the valve body, the protruding shaft connector should rotate freely left & right using your thumb & forefinger. A new motor & gears will wear out quickly if the shaft assembly is stiff.....
  • Le JohnLe John Posts: 115Member
    @MikeL_2 I started doing the research as @GBart and @Solid_Fuel_Man mentions above and was able to rotate the shaft connector with ease from left to right so I didn’t open the shaft assembly. Fo you think I should still replace it?
  • MikeL_2MikeL_2 Posts: 176Member
    edited March 9
    Le John,
    I'll always replace the ball, shaft, & plate assembly along with the power head.......
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