Best approach for 19th century Greek revival house
Comments
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I’m not much of an ask the builder, or this old house fan, But sometimes there is good information.
This gives you an idea of how innocently mixing modern technology “coatings” to improve the structure can have unintended consequences.
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/historic-house-bubbling-plaster0 -
Gordy: That's a good article. And TOH has a solution -- rip everything out and start over
That's why I said above -- "Do no harm"
My first home was an 1810 Brick Federal a few blocks from Independence Hall. Was fortunate to get guidance from an architect working with the park service ... more damage is done trying to "improve" ... people don't understand the damage they can do using modern materials -- especially those with VB properties. Trapped water .. destroys .. it's like overwatering a plant. Old growth wood that dries can go though cycle after cycle with little damage .. typically only checking.
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Excellent article. Thank you. @Gordy ! The temptation to "improve" an historic structure, either because of the illusion that newer is always better or because it is cheaper or to bring it closer to modern standards (particularly for energy efficiency) or whatever is all too common -- and to one in my racket, heartbreaking. I have two fundamental rules in what I do -- the first is, as you say, "do no harm", but that sometimes takes a lot of research. The second (which is actually a regulation, never mind rule, for a listed property, such as the ones I care for) is do nothing which is not either original to the period or which is not fully reversible. I do make some exceptions to the latter rule (and they can be permissible if they can be defended) but only with great caution and almost always where there is simply no modern product with similar properties (this is particularly true of exterior paint).Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
To the OP. It would be nice to see some interior pics. Especially the heating system. I wonder if it is original to the period, or installed around the civil war era. 1840’s is a bit early for a steam heating system to be common place in a home?
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The house has so much character. A focus on comfort vs. energy efficiency may have the greatest return. Could the basement rim joist cavities be foam/caulk/mastic sealed and stuffed with ROXUL or another rock wool insulation. The rock wool is less less likely to be effected by moisture and pests and is fire rated. This might stop the infiltration of cold air contributing to the stack effect. Not sure you code would require addition of a vapor barrier in the unheated/unfinished basement.
If you ever think of selling the house, the next owner is going to value the character of the home over the energy savings. What a gem of a house.0 -
Thanks Phil, I'd hoped to keep the steam and it's good to get support.Phil_17 said:Steam works great!! Between a new boiler (MegaSteam on oil is terrific) and updated vents (make sure to add sufficient venting on the mains) you should have a great setup...
I'd like to do as much wiring as I could. Was it difficult to get your electrician to sign off on the work?Phil_17 said:I gave up on finding an electrician who would take the time to do it in a plaster friendly manner and rewired the whole house myself.
Good ideas.Phil_17 said:Our exterior was in pretty rough shape, which provided an opportunity to insulate from the outside by removing a few clapboards around the perimeter and doing spray foam in the walls...
...If you do seal it up, you must install an ERV.
My wife is wild about radiant.Phil_17 said:People on this forum may say I'm crazy, but we are running the radiant off the steam boiler...
Thanks for taking the time to write in such detail, Bob
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Thanks Tag,TAG said:Go slow ......
I'm one of those serial remodelers of old buildings -- love them .. it's a sickness. My current project is from 1873.
The first thing is to get a very good understanding of the building -- what's in great shape -- what's going to need replacement. What's been done and how. Evaluate the spaces available to retrofit the system you want -- as well as the cost.
You have to be a doctor --- do no harm. Understand what attracted you to the house and go with it. Once you start ripping things apart -- there is no end to it. Most contractors don't get it and can do a lot of damage upgrading plumbing and electrical .. ductwork especially...
There's lots of very good information here. I like your 'do no harm' aesthetic.
Bob0 -
Thanks Brad,BradHotNCold said:1685 Home in Milford, CT. Massive center chimney, 5 fireplaces...
Heating was two pipe steam. Worked beautifully. loved the radiators...
Came home one day to find moisture freezing on exterior clapboards outside one bedroom. Pulled some of the new (!) clapboards off to discover that a steam pipe had split. (Think it was steel, not cast iron, not sure.) Steam had been installed in 30’s...
After much debate, decided we could not trust steam system not to let go in other walls. Ripped out steam system and radiators...
Another approach to consider?
That's a sobering warning. I'm glad it ended well for you.
Bob0 -
This is extremely rare. Don't let it turn you off steam.Bob_Freeman said:
Thanks Brad,BradHotNCold said:1685 Home in Milford, CT. Massive center chimney, 5 fireplaces...
Heating was two pipe steam. Worked beautifully. loved the radiators...
Came home one day to find moisture freezing on exterior clapboards outside one bedroom. Pulled some of the new (!) clapboards off to discover that a steam pipe had split. (Think it was steel, not cast iron, not sure.) Steam had been installed in 30’s...
After much debate, decided we could not trust steam system not to let go in other walls. Ripped out steam system and radiators...
Another approach to consider?
That's a sobering warning. I'm glad it ended well for you.
BobAll Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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