zone valve problem on controller or relay?

uqacleo

I have a two honeywell zone valves connected to one relay and one pump. recently, I found the zone 1 for my basement works well but there is something wrong on zone 2 for the first floor. When I increase the temperature on zone 2, the zone valve is open and I can heard the sound for the movement of endswitch but the pump doesn't start. I searched online and tried to jump the TT of replay but the pump still doesn't start. However, when I remove the wire connected to the relay and then reconnect, the pump start running. However, after few days, same thing happens and I will do the same thing to start the pump. I called the electrician to come and check and he told me it is the problem of controller not the relay. But I am wondering if it is the problem of controller, then the pump should still keep quiet when disconnect and reconnect the wire between controller and relay. What I am thinking is that if there is any possible that the two connections on the relay for Zone 2 is not connected well. When I disconnect and reconnect, they may work for a while but stop after few days. Any suggestion/solution?

Because it will a big job to change the whole controller then I want to make sure it is really the problem of controller rather than the problem on the relay or connections. Thanks in advanced.

I am not sure if I have clearly presented the problem since this is the first time to have this question. If you need any information, I will add them according to your suggestions. Thanks.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I am guessing your 2 thermostats each open their respective control valves. Then the end switches on each valve are wired in parallel and go to T & T on a switching relay to start your 1 circulator. What is the controller your talking about?

Jamie Hall

You have a point on the connections -- and the wire. Double and triple check to make sure the connections are clean and tight and that the wire is broken or damaged.

uqacleo

Sorry, I am not the professional guy. The controller I talked should be the control valves.

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

I am guessing your 2 thermostats each open their respective control valves. Then the end switches on each valve are wired in parallel and go to T & T on a switching relay to start your 1 circulator. What is the controller your talking about?

uqacleo

Jamie Hall said:

You have a point on the connections -- and the wire. Double and triple check to make sure the connections are clean and tight and that the wire is broken or damaged.

Thanks for the information. I have changed the wire then it should not be its problem. The biggest possibility is the connection between wire and replay panel. There is 6 pairs on the panel and Zone 1 and 2 uses two pairs while there is only one line connected to one of the 3rd pair. I am wondering if I can change the connection of Zone 2 to 4 th pair to check if the connection on the 2nd pair is bad. But have no idea how to wire~~~

uqacleo

One interesting is that when I disconnected the wire, there is some spark between wire and screw, then the pump starts running. Then I will tight the screw but it will last one day or maybe 2 days before stop working. However, if there is no spark, the pump doesn't run even the wire is connected~~

STEVEusaPA

Careful with the sparking, you could do damage.
So how long has this been going on, and when are you going to get someone in there (that knows what they are doing) to fix it before you start damaging things?

HVACNUT

@uqacleo dont sell yourself short. I'm sure your quite professional in other areas.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Can you post a few?

uqacleo

STEVEusaPA said:

Careful with the sparking, you could do damage.
So how long has this been going on, and when are you going to get someone in there (that knows what they are doing) to fix it before you start damaging things?

I have called the electrician came to check but they said everything was well and suggested me to change the whole valve. But I think it is not the problem of valve. Maybe I will call another electrician to check.

BTW, the voltage between wire and screw on the pannel should be max. 24 V, am I right?

uqacleo

HVACNUT said:

@uqacleo dont sell yourself short. I'm sure your quite professional in other areas.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Can you post a few?

Tks. I will post some picture later ~~

STEVEusaPA

uqacleo said:

STEVEusaPA said:

Careful with the sparking, you could do damage.
So how long has this been going on, and when are you going to get someone in there (that knows what they are doing) to fix it before you start damaging things?

I have called the electrician came to check but they said everything was well and suggested me to change the whole valve. But I think it is not the problem of valve. Maybe I will call another electrician to check.

BTW, the voltage between wire and screw on the pannel should be max. 24 V, am I right?

Which wire, which screw?
With low voltage it can be a little higher, little lower, just like line voltage.
Maybe instead of an electrician you need a boiler tech familiar with troubleshooting and repairing controls.

SuperTech

Don't call an Electrician. You need a heating service technician. Google HVAC companies for your area or better yet use the find a contractor tool available on this site.

uqacleo

SuperTech said:

Don't call an Electrician. You need a heating service technician. Google HVAC companies for your area or better yet use the find a contractor tool available on this site.

Tks, I will try that~~