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Removing Spud at Angle to Radiator

caseycamire
caseycamire Member Posts: 20
in Strictly Steam
Hello all - bought a house in October with steam heat, and I've been doing minor work since I moved in, with lots of help from this forum! One of the main jobs I've been wanting to do is replacing the steam valve/spud on my bedroom radiator. Problem is, the valve and spud are mounted to an elbow which is itself connected to the radiator. As such, my spud wrench is too long, and I can't get the spud wrench deep enough to grab the internal tabs and remove the spud.. Picture in link.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JTjWAdBmjJSiXung9

Any suggestions on how to remove? Bonus question, any thoughts on why this was done? Was it really the previous owners just couldn't get the steam valve turned all the way?

Comments

  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited February 2019
    The spud is right there, in that 45 elbow and is the piece that the large valve nut is attached to (the nut actually on the valve. The easiest way to replace the spud is to take that 45 elbow off, buy a new 45 elbow and install the new spud in the new elbow and then put the new elbow back on the nipple out of the radiator. Once you loosen the large nut (on the valve), you can move the radiator around so you can have easy access to that 45 elbow.

    Bonus answer: They put that 45 elbow on there to get the radiator closer to the wall behind the radiator.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,248
    This is easier than most spuds, just disconnect union, slide rad away. Unscrew the 45, if the nipple into the rad comes with it that is fine.
    Then get new 45 and nipple if it came out also.
    New spud into 45 and there you go.
    Are you sure the valve needs changing?
    New valve may be shorter and you need to lift the riser pipe if possible. You want to get a wrench on that riser pipe for back up to remove the valve.

    The 45 was there to move the rad closer to the wall. Without it there would be 3-4" of additional space behind the rad.
  • caseycamire
    caseycamire Member Posts: 20
    Thanks guys! I am not sure why I didn't think of just replacing the 45 along with the spud. I'll grab a 45 tomorrow.

    And JUGHNE - yeah, there's a steady drip leak at the union nut. I backed it off, gently cleaned it, and mated it back up to no avail, so I think the valve has the be replaced...unless I'm wrong about that.

  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    Wow @JUGHNE , I think I hear an echo. :D
    Grallert
  • caseycamire
    caseycamire Member Posts: 20
    And thanks to you too Fred!
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    When you take that valve union apart, look and see if the spud/radiator might be cocked a little and not lining up with the valve mouth. If it is, nudge the radiator over enough to line the valve and spud up and retighten the union. That may be the only reason it leaks.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,248
    edited February 2019
    Fred, I know I was late but got both answers in the first posting. :D .…….slow at typing.

    That looks to be a pretty high quality valve. I would try to reseal the union as Fred said.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    @JUGHNE said: Fred, I know I was late but got both answers in the first posting.

    As did I :o
    ethicalpaul
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,248
    Fred, I saw an edit 4 minutes after the original post.... ;)
    ethicalpaul
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    JUGHNE said:

    Fred, I saw an edit 4 minutes after the original post.... ;)

    What's your point? That was still before your post, LOL
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,248
    OK Fred, before this turns into a "whizzing contest",
    I concede to my elder. :)

  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    JUGHNE said:

    OK Fred, before this turns into a "whizzing contest",
    I concede to my elder. :)

    :o

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