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Hot water stove and bell & gossett flow control valves

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runorbike
runorbike Member Posts: 8
edited January 2019 in THE MAIN WALL
Hi all, thank you for any help in advance!
Ok, we have a hot water stove, placed in 1980
We have 2 zones, master bedroom is one zone and the rest of the house is the other zone
We have 2 B & G pumps/circulators and on each pump line is a B & G FLOW CONTROLLER VALVE
When we only turn on the bedroom, the hot water also comes into the rest of the house and vice versa, there is no stopping it from bleeding over to the other zone. We replaced both flow controls with new ones
but still no stopping from one zone to the next. Our only choice is to close the gate valve so one zone will not flow.
THANK YOU,
PS: Please see 4 attached photos
Pumps located near the bottom of the photos and flow control valves located near the top of the photos
Hot water stove is to the right out of the photo, runs into old oil furnace
Shane

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,419
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    Can you make a sketch of the piping and post it? You probably need to have some check valves on there, but can't say until I have a better idea as to how things are hooked together.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    runorbike
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,607
    edited January 2019
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    The flow checks should solve your problem. Some flow checks can be set to be "open" all the time or into the "automatic" position. In automatic the flow check should be closed with the pump off and open when the pump starts.

    Read your instructions and check the settings. Could be dirt or Teflon tape holding the offending flo check open
    runorbike
  • runorbike
    runorbike Member Posts: 8
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    Thank you for all the help both of you, thank you
    We bought new flow control valves, but they are still not stopping the flow to the other zone when only one thermostat is on. If one therm is on in one zone, the other zone will get full heat, and vice versa. Do we need more flow controls, side by side maybe, or some kind of reducer in pressure, or maybe take the flow control further away from the pump, below or above the pump, etc, etc, :) THANK YOU SO MUCH....
    Shane
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    There is a small "flipper" handle on the top of the flow control, it will manually open the control. You should have it screwed down for auto operation.
    If it is down you might run it open and shut a couple times as it might be stuck open and that action might free it.
    The arrows on the body show match the direction of water flow out of the boiler.
  • runorbike
    runorbike Member Posts: 8
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    Thanks Jughne,
    I appreciate the help and tips. Right now, that is the way we have it. Flipper handle down, and we did work the action several times to see if something was stuck or what not, and no difference. Still bleeding over hot water when only one therm is on, which leaks into the zone that the therm is not on.
    Do you know how far away the flow controls are supposed to be from the pumps? Or any other suggestions?
    THANK YOU SO MUCH
    Shane
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    Did it all used to work correctly?
    Has some equipment been changed since it last worked correctly?

    You mention in your other post that you have 2 boiler connected together, or not??

    Pictures from far back please.
  • runorbike
    runorbike Member Posts: 8
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    Hello,
    I was told that the 3 bedrooms worked by themselves when the therm in the master bedroom was turned on. And the rest of the house was on the other therm.
    However, I do not see anything downstairs in the plumbing to show the 3 bedrooms are looped by themselves. Sorry I am a rookie here. I do know the master bedroom is now a separate loop from the rest of the house including the other 2 bedrooms. The main pipe coming from the boiler goes to a T for the master and then the rest of the house
    THANKS SO MUCH