Radiant Heat in existing attached garage slab

Bengmark

I am looking at the possibility of heating my attached 2 car garage. Its a 1 year old building, it has a slab that is not insulated. The walls and ceiling and door are insulated. It acts as my woodworking shop, but the winters in Iowa can get pretty cold hitting below zero several times a year. My goal is to keep the garage at the high 50's / low 60's all winter. This keeps the wood workable, and doesn't hurt things like glue and finishes.

So.... I've been investigating several options. 1, Mini split but seems below 5 degrees and the mini splits stop working. Hanging a gas appliance is an option, but frankly the space isn't that big, and I don't know that I like the idea of open flame with floating saw dust and fumes from various finishes. I'm now evaluating the possibility of radiant heat, which has led me to here.

I dont have a problem adding some height (inch or so) to the slab.

I've looked at Roth panels that seemed like the solution I was looking for, but question the ability for them to hold weight of tools, not to mention a car.

Uponor has a quick trak panel made from plywood that seems like it would withstand the weight. My thought was to have some level of vapor barrier and insulation under the panel to prevent heat loss down into the slab, and then 3/8 or so plywood on top for strengths. But what about the mess from a car. Ice and snow melting and such. Perhaps an epoxy coating on the plywood...

Its possible I could put a pour on top of the slab. I haven't look at that much because it seems that it would be too much height.

Has anyone out here tackled the issue of putting radiant heat in a garage on top of an existing un-insulated slap? How would you stop the slop from getting down in it? Do you lose to much heat transfer if you cover the PEX with something like plywood and epoxy, or a rolled rubber material?

If the answer is "that's a dumb idea" then would radiant heat on the walls be viable? 2 of the walls are inside facing.

Thanks.

GroundUp

I would forget about anything floor related unless you can afford to raise the floor height 6" (assuming you will have vehicle traffic in there, as you mentioned). If you have the wall and/or ceiling space available, radiant is definitely a viable option using a wall hung gas or electric boiler

Bengmark

Thanks Ground. I'm kinda realizing that. I'm thinking now of a wall based panels about 3 feet from ground up. Both gas and electric is easy access . Evaluating wall hung boiler now.

This seems like a viable option for electric. https://www.highcardheating.com/collections/argo-boilers/products/argo-electric-boiler-at062310c

I like not having to vent. And Solar is in my future to assist with cost. Anyone have experience with Argo?

Also my thoughts are I would likly install the PEX and pannels, and have a contractor come in and do the boiler install.

GroundUp

I'm not familiar with Argo. I use primarily Electro brand boilers and they've been flawless. Basic, easy design with nothing to go wrong but a couple sensors. It helps that they're built 50 miles from my house, but of the few times I've ever needed technical support it's been grade-A. Last time, I had a guy answer the tech line at 9pm on a Saturday and was super helpful and nice throughout the call. Even called back the next day to see if the fix was still holding out. I'll never go anywhere else, personally

leonz

If you have a vehicle in there your local plumbing code, the national plumbing code and or your insurer my not allow it.

A an upright through the wall gas forced air furnace "may" be an option otherwise an electric ceiling hung garage heater may be your only option.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I like the boiler idea since you want the heat on at all times. Glycol the system and use wall radiators or panels. I would put the boiler in the basement or in a utility room to keep the gas flame out of the garage and wood sawdust out of the boiler

Gordy

Radiant ceiling is a great option. Use the Roth panels on the ceiling. The weight issues with vehicle, tools goes away along with a crappy overlay project that wouldn't last. The build down isn't squat for a garage.

Also the square feet of usable space for effective heating btu transfer is increased with using the ceiling as the panel.

Further more your comfort level would be higher with a radiant ceiling. Vehicles in the winter would benefit more from a ceiling verses a floor as far as warming from the top verses the bottom.

Bengmark

Thanks everyone for your help.