Steam Vent: Gorton #2 vs. Barnes & Jones BJ-3BM

LK

Does anyone have an opinion on Gorton#2 vs. Barnes & Jones BJ-3BM? I have three Gorton#2s and one Gorton#1 that need to be replaced, and I was thinking of swapping out the Gorton#2s for the Barnes & Jones BJ-3BM. Do you know which is better quality? What is the thread size of the Barnes & Jones? I think the Gorton #2 is 1/2" thread. Also, is the height of the Barnes & Jones the same as the Gorton #2 (which is 6 3/8" high)? Do you know how many cycles the Gorton#2 is expected to last vs. the Barnes & Jones? I cannot find this info on the web. Finally, is it possible the Barnes & Jones would provide too much venting in my situation?

Thanks.

Sailah

Completely unbiased opinion here

I think it's well accepted that the Big Mouth vents substantially faster than the Gorton. This was based on testing done by @gerry gill as well as empirically by end users.

I think it's also well accepted that the Big Mouth does not handle water well so you'd be advised to elevate the vent on a stub riser as high as possible to minimize the chance that condensate will hit the vent. Because it's based off a modified steam trap, the BM will discharge water if it reaches it.

It comes stock in 3/4", but the factory can supply them in 1/2". You'd just need to call and order the B&J 2BM (1/2" pipe) and then pay for shipping since it's not stocked at Amazon or any of the supply houses.

Overall height is 4 3/4" but you'll bury 1/2" of thread.

I don't know cycling on the Gorton, but the BM is designed to cycle 10 million times before fatiguing. Since a vent cycles way less than a steam trap it's probably a long time. Other things can affect the vent and I'd say that the silicone O ring would probably wear out faster than the internal components.

Full disclosure: I invented the Big Mouth.

KC_Jones

Everything @Sailah said is 100% accurate. I have the big mouth on my system and they work flawlessly. Here is another point to consider, even if it does wear out in your lifetime, you only replace the element or O-ring not the entire vent as you would on the Gorton.

You can't really have too much venting, you could have a point of diminishing return for your money, but not really too much.

1Matthias

Yep. I have installed 3 B&J big mouths so far, and have 2 more on my desk now waiting to be installed. They are 3/4" thread, with a 7/8 (I think!)[EDIT: I should learn to not eyeball it. 5/8"] internal hex for installation. Both systems I've installed them on worked measurably better after their addition. They are superb as long as water doesn't hit them, as they do not close against, and indeed open to water, so you just have to make sure that they are far enough from the main to avoid that. All in all, I'd recommend them any day.

ChrisJ

In the Big Mouth's defense, I seem to recall some saying even though the Gorton 2 has a float, it really doesn't work.

Am I remembering correctly?

Fred

I have BM's on my system too. Wouldn't use anything else at this point. This is the third season they have been on my system and they operate flawlessly, are built like a tank, and cost the same as a Gorton #2 or a Hoffman 75 but have twice the venting capacity of the Gorton #2 and 4 times the capacity of the Hoffman 75 so you need fewer of them.

STEAM DOCTOR

The internal hex is 5/8"

JUGHNE

Lacking an Allen wrench that large and seldom needing one, I used a 5/8" hex shaped center punch after I cleaned up the mushroomed beating end.
Then a wrench on the punch worked well.

gfrbrookline

I have 6 Big Mouth's on my system and two G2's for balance. The G2's are good but I have had issues with them failing, the Big Mouths are much more robust in terms of construction and venting capacity. Much better value for the dollar.

1Matthias

JUGHNE said:

Lacking an Allen wrench that large and seldom needing one, I used a 5/8" hex shaped center punch after I cleaned up the mushroomed beating end.
Then a wrench on the punch worked well.

Yep, I use a chisel. There's usually a reducing plug in the vent tapping (usually down to 1/8"), so I can use the chisel to pound that out, then add the vent with the other end. Works a charm.

Sailah

If you don't have the hex tool, in addition to above suggestions, you can assemble vent tight using union nut and then crank down using the body. Usually good enough with pipe dope at the single pipe pressures to seal fine. Reclock and then final tighten on union nut.

Or just use an an excuse to buy more tools!

KC_Jones

Sailah said:

Or just use an an excuse to buy more tools!

Yes, yes, yes.

1Matthias

More tools is always a good thing.

Shalom

Just installed one today, Couldn't find the right allen wrench so I used the trick from an older thread of using a 7/16" bolt with a nut on it in the appropriate sized socket.

Question: Do you put teflon tape under the union nut, or only on the threads that go into the pipe? If not, should I take it out?

Sailah

Shalom said:

Just installed one today, Couldn't find the right allen wrench so I used the trick from an older thread of using a 7/16" bolt with a nut on it in the appropriate sized socket.

Question: Do you put teflon tape under the union nut, or only on the threads that go into the pipe? If not, should I take it out?

No you don't use Teflon tape on a union nut of any kind. Tape is only for pipe threads.

Ironman

I completely agree with everything Peter Owens has said and I'll add that the trade owes him a tremendous debt of gratitude for inventing the BigMouth vent. It's all we use.

Hats off to you, Sailah!