Steam angle radiator valves

samfiller

I have either one of these between my 15 radiators.
Any insight on replacing them?

Should I try to repair either of them?

@Gordo has a great RAW video on repairing the Hoffman #7 not 100% sure that is what I have. With that said his expertise makes it look like a walk in the park but I am sure he is one of few that can do it with such ease.








Thanks!

nicholas bonham-carter

What needs fixing on them? Are they leaking? There may be a can of worms waiting for you here. Are the radiators heating up?—NBC

samfiller

@nicholas bonham-carter Thanks for the reply-
Some of the radiators seem OK but some dont get hot for a while or only after a very long time (by forcing the system to stay on) and the valve doesnt turn.

Thanks

Gordo

Hi!
Thanks for the kind words!

I would say that the post 1925 Hoffman #7s are a pretty straightforward rebuild if the spline isn't stripped or broken. Go for it!

In your post above, pictures #1, 2 , 5 & 6 are the Hoffmans.

The valves in pictures # 3 & 4 are a different matter. They are what we call "Kriebel" system valves from the Vapor Vacuum Heating Co, of Philadelphia, PA. They can be a bit more problematic and I'd save those for another day.

I have a few of those beauties in our "petting zoo" of old valves and haven't worked up a reliable and consistently successful procedure for overcoming the kinks and pitfalls of that valve.

I do have stock of newly 3-D printed handles for both valves.
How many of what type and what colors would you like?

nicholas bonham-carter

Maybe the cold rad problem is due to bad traps, or whatever keeps the steam from getting into the returns. Remember that the air must leave the pipes/rads in order for stem to get in. Very low pressures, (ounces) are needed for this type of system-maybe even negative pressures!
Crack the union between the valve and spud to see if steam is getting through.—NBC

Jamie Hall

If you can't get the valve to turn -- quite possible if they haven't been moved for some years (decades?) -- you may be able to get them to free if you loosen the hex nut immediately below the handle. First, though, you should try moving them just a little each way -- often with patience that will work.

Don't scrap them. It's well worth the effort to get them working properly, and they are built like tanks so they can indeed be repaired.

samfiller

@nicholas bonham-carter
Thank you very much, I guess that will show me if its open at all.

@Jamie Hall
Thank you for the feed back I will definitely try that.

@Gordo
Thank you very much, I will PM you regarding- for the sake of the community can I ask some questions here:

1) Any specifications on the castellated nut and where do you get that "tool" from?
2) What type of bit and size did you use to grind out the "old" packing?
3) When putting in the new packing you mentioned 8 inches and then you went in increments of 3 what were were you feeling for to know that you had enough.

Thanks!

Gordo

@samfiller :
1) The castellated nut removal tool is obtainable from us (and only us, in so far as I know). It is our custom designed unit that we have fabricated for us at a local CNC high pressure water-jet facility.
2) The bit is a 5/8 hole saw, the smallest they make, it seems!
3) The PTFE packing is fed in the space, and 8" is about all that can be packed in at one go. The nut is run down to compress the packing and then the nut is removed, and a bit more packing is fed in, etc. I am going for a just a bit of resistance to turning the handle, but not too much.