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pressure test

cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
I have re-piped the boiler in the mechanical room. All the piping in the rest of the house was left alone.
I had the boiler piped to the header and back to the boiler with inch and a quarter threaded pipe and pressure tested it and did not see any bubbles, I did lose about 1 psi per hour. I used dawn dish soap 50/50 water and soap on every threaded joint. There is a hydraulic separater in the system if that makes any difference. Anybody have any suggestions?

Comments

  • IronmanIronman Posts: 4,423Member
    What pressure did you use?
    Bob Boan







    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • hot rod_7hot rod_7 Posts: 8,782Member
    Does it go to 0 psi, or drop a few lbs and stop?
    Air from a compressor is hot, when it cools it may show a few psi drop.

    Any gasket connections? those sometimes need to get wet to seal air tight.

    The cap on all air vents tight?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • IronmanIronman Posts: 4,423Member
    Also check your test gauge and it’s threads. I ve had more leaks on them than I’ve had on systems.
    Bob Boan







    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    Ironman said:

    What pressure did you use?

    I used 15 lbs
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    hot rod said:

    Does it go to 0 psi, or drop a few lbs and stop?
    Air from a compressor is hot, when it cools it may show a few psi drop.

    Any gasket connections? those sometimes need to get wet to seal air tight.

    The cap on all air vents tight?

    The pressure dropped all the way to zero. over a 12 hour period.
    The gaskets on the hydraulic separator leaked but they were tightened up and no longer appear to be leaking. The vent at the top of that is tight.
    Unless those gaskets are a real slow leak.
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    Ironman said:

    Also check your test gauge and it’s threads. I ve had more leaks on them than I’ve had on systems.

    The test gauge is new, threads are doped and Teflon taped.
    The schrader valve is close to the gauge.

    I am tempted to fill with water and see what happens.
  • hot rod_7hot rod_7 Posts: 8,782Member
    You might remove the green gaskets from the Sep and soak them in water for a few minutes and reinstall, this seems to help them seal better. If you want to try the air test again, 25- 26 psi is fine and will show an air leak better.

    If all the piping work you have done is visible, and in the mech room, then water will surely show the leaks.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • delta Tdelta T Posts: 660Member
    Agree with all the above, I would use a proper leak locating solution too. I have used 50/50 soap before and it does work, but I have found very slow leaks much better with real leak locating solution because it will leave thin film that will still show bubbles many hours after application, soap and water will dry out and it does not seem to leave a good film.

    I found a very slow leak on the seam of a ball valve one time that didn't show up until the next day, when I came back to discover a golf ball sized clump of bubbles on the ball valve. stayed there for 2 hours the day of application and never saw anything, only saw it when I came back the next morning.
  • NY_RobNY_Rob Posts: 1,152Member
    Any unions? .... check them first.
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    delta T said:

    Agree with all the above, I would use a proper leak locating solution too. I have used 50/50 soap before and it does work, but I have found very slow leaks much better with real leak locating solution because it will leave thin film that will still show bubbles many hours after application, soap and water will dry out and it does not seem to leave a good film.

    I found a very slow leak on the seam of a ball valve one time that didn't show up until the next day, when I came back to discover a golf ball sized clump of bubbles on the ball valve. stayed there for 2 hours the day of application and never saw anything, only saw it when I came back the next morning.

    Delta T what is a leak locating solution?
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    hot rod said:

    You might remove the green gaskets from the Sep and soak them in water for a few minutes and reinstall, this seems to help them seal better. If you want to try the air test again, 25- 26 psi is fine and will show an air leak better.

    If all the piping work you have done is visible, and in the mech room, then water will surely show the leaks.

    All piping is visible, I will bump up the pressure. As for taking the seperater gaskets out and soaking them, there is also the boiler protection valve and the 4 quick setters. Those gaskets don't seem to like to be taken out too often.
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    NY_Rob said:

    Any unions? .... check them first.

    One union, did not see anything there.
  • Solid_Fuel_ManSolid_Fuel_Man Posts: 1,128Member
    I've had pressure relief valves not hold air, but hold water just fine.
    Master electrician specialising in boiler and burner controls, multiple fuel systems, radiant system controls, building controls, and universal refrigeration tech.
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member

    I've had pressure relief valves not hold air, but hold water just fine.

    Right now I have no pressure relief plumbed on, that will be the next step.
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    hot rod said:

    You might remove the green gaskets from the Sep and soak them in water for a few minutes and reinstall, this seems to help them seal better. If you want to try the air test again, 25- 26 psi is fine and will show an air leak better.

    If all the piping work you have done is visible, and in the mech room, then water will surely show the leaks.

    Hot Rod I bumped up the pressure and now I see bobbles at the header joints at the seperator. The connections on that seperator are very hard to get at. What do you think fill it with water and see if they seal. Or take it apart and soak for awhile. All the smaller green gaskets seem to hold.
  • hot rod_7hot rod_7 Posts: 8,782Member
    Fill it with water, those gaskets usually seal when they get wet, give them a crank if you can get a big slip joint pliers or wrench once they get wet, if you can.

    Assuming they are aligned without any sideways stress on the unions?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • cuttercutter Posts: 235Member
    Hot Rod I actually took them apart and soaked the gaskets for 10 minutes put it back together and 2 of the leaks stopped the last one was very small and has now stopped since I filled the system with water. Actually all of the leaks at the seperator were very small. My main leak was a reducing bushing that is in a very hard to get at spot. I forgot to tighten it up, it was a little tighter than hand tight. It looks like I am good now. Thanks for your suggestions
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