Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Another steam replacement

Dave0176
Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
South Amboy NJ

1994 Installed Weil-McLain 468 with a Wayne conversion burner, totally neglected in deplorable condition, not that the 68 is any good anyway lol. EDR came in at 325 so in goes a Weil-McLain EG-40, with two 2-1/2” risers and a 3” header.






DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......

Comments

  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,425
    edited August 2018
    nice I wish I could get these jobs, so you did 2 1/2 inch risers 3 inch header then 2 - 2 inch take offs?
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
    Snowmelt said:

    nice I wish I could get these jobs, so you did 2 1/2 inch risers 3 inch header then 2 - 2 inch take offs?

    Yes sir....
    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,425
    edited August 2018
    nice , can you explain what happens when you increase to 3 inch then decrease back to 2 inch?
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
    Snowmelt said:

    nice , can you explain what happens when you increase to 3 inch then decrease back to 2 inch?

    Nothing is really happening, the mains are 2” and the header is basically a manifold. The two 2-1/2” risers provide a steam exit velocity of 10.85, so steam is leaving that boiler nice and slow helping to leave the water in the boiler. The 3” drop header helps to slow the steam down more and also acts as a separator, separating more water droplets from the steam, pretty much ensures nothing but dry steam entering the mains.

    As far as header sizing goes, I pretty much use Jstarr’s header chart that he posted up a bunch of years back. Oh and Dans books of course, the lost of art of steam heating, I’ve read that book more times then I can remember, actually wore it out!! Lol
    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
  • EzzyT
    EzzyT Member Posts: 1,338
    Another Beautiful install as always Dave.
    Loving the water seal set up.
    E-Travis Mechanical LLC
    Etravismechanical@gmail.com
    201-887-8856
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,314
    That Wayne P-series burner in a 68 was completely the wrong choice. It can't produce enough static air pressure to move enough air through the boiler for proper combustion. I bet it was making a lot of CO.

    I've seen a 7-68 running OK with a Midco EC however, and a Carlin EZ-Gas would work as well. But as you say, it is a 68..........
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
    Steamhead said:

    That Wayne P-series burner in a 68 was completely the wrong choice. It can't produce enough static air pressure to move enough air through the boiler for proper combustion. I bet it was making a lot of CO.

    I've seen a 7-68 running OK with a Midco EC however, and a Carlin EZ-Gas would work as well. But as you say, it is a 68..........

    Frank who ever installed that burner did a hack of a job, they never bothered to even clean the boiler prior to the install. When I pulled the boiler apart it had about 4” of soot in the bottom and the pins were clogged. Smh
    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,231
    Looks good, as always Dave.

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,156
    @Dave0176. Nice install as usual. You are one lucky man. Nice small boiler in nice big basement. I rarely have that much room to work. Keep up the sacred duty of keeping steam heating as glorious as it should be.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,314
    Dave0176 said:

    Frank who ever installed that burner did a hack of a job, they never bothered to even clean the boiler prior to the install. When I pulled the boiler apart it had about 4” of soot in the bottom and the pins were clogged. Smh

    Wonder if the oil company did it?

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
    Chipping away, the A/C calls are still coming in so it’s taking a bit longer.


    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,425
    out of curiosity how high did you go on your risers? do you just use a 18 or 24 inch nipple?
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
    Snowmelt said:

    out of curiosity how high did you go on your risers? do you just use a 18 or 24 inch nipple?

    On this particular job, I cut the risers 24” then the union adds about 3” and the close nipples added another 2-3” approximately.

    All I can say is nothing is standard, every job is unique. I look at everything first, take my measurements, then determine what I’m going to do. Low ceiling heights make it tough, but that’s the beauty in using a drop header.
    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
  • Danny Scully
    Danny Scully Member Posts: 1,437
    edited August 2018
    You need to invest in some manly hangers @Dave0176, band iron doesn’t cut it :wink: Great job as always.
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,156
    edited August 2018
    Would it be better to use a 2"-3/4" coupling for the boiler drain? This way, if it clogs up, you can just open the ball valve and stick something through to unplug.
  • AMservices
    AMservices Member Posts: 610
    > @STEAM DOCTOR said:
    > Would it be better to use a 2"-3/4" coupling for the boiler drain? This way, if it clogs up, you can just open the ball valve and stick something through to unplug.

    He did use a ball valve. What I would recommend is turning the reducing 90 a 1/4 turn CW so dirt isn't sitting on the ball.
    I've seen them jam and not open all the way when the valve is in a dirt pocket.

    Great job!
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,156
    @AMservices. I know he used a ball valve. Just think that a reducer coupling would be better then a reducing elbow. No big deal. Cadillac of an installation.
    AMservices
  • Dave0176
    Dave0176 Member Posts: 1,178
    edited August 2018
    Final pics finished, main vents are offset, just not in the pics.....




    DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
    NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
    Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc

    https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter

    I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......
    SteamDolt
  • SteamDolt
    SteamDolt Member Posts: 6
    Can't thank Dave enough for an excellent job!

    I'd also like to thank all you guys on this forum for help/advise since I bought the house a year ago!

    I'll still be around. Slightly less of a dolt now thanks to Dave, my steam book, and this forum.

    I'm excited about my system.