Another steam replacement

Dave0176

South Amboy NJ

1994 Installed Weil-McLain 468 with a Wayne conversion burner, totally neglected in deplorable condition, not that the 68 is any good anyway lol. EDR came in at 325 so in goes a Weil-McLain EG-40, with two 2-1/2” risers and a 3” header.

Snowmelt

nice I wish I could get these jobs, so you did 2 1/2 inch risers 3 inch header then 2 - 2 inch take offs?

Dave0176

Snowmelt said:

nice I wish I could get these jobs, so you did 2 1/2 inch risers 3 inch header then 2 - 2 inch take offs?

Yes sir....

Snowmelt

nice , can you explain what happens when you increase to 3 inch then decrease back to 2 inch?

Dave0176

Snowmelt said:

nice , can you explain what happens when you increase to 3 inch then decrease back to 2 inch?

Nothing is really happening, the mains are 2” and the header is basically a manifold. The two 2-1/2” risers provide a steam exit velocity of 10.85, so steam is leaving that boiler nice and slow helping to leave the water in the boiler. The 3” drop header helps to slow the steam down more and also acts as a separator, separating more water droplets from the steam, pretty much ensures nothing but dry steam entering the mains.

As far as header sizing goes, I pretty much use Jstarr’s header chart that he posted up a bunch of years back. Oh and Dans books of course, the lost of art of steam heating, I’ve read that book more times then I can remember, actually wore it out!! Lol

EzzyT

Another Beautiful install as always Dave.
Loving the water seal set up.

Steamhead

That Wayne P-series burner in a 68 was completely the wrong choice. It can't produce enough static air pressure to move enough air through the boiler for proper combustion. I bet it was making a lot of CO.

I've seen a 7-68 running OK with a Midco EC however, and a Carlin EZ-Gas would work as well. But as you say, it is a 68..........

Dave0176

Steamhead said:

That Wayne P-series burner in a 68 was completely the wrong choice. It can't produce enough static air pressure to move enough air through the boiler for proper combustion. I bet it was making a lot of CO.

I've seen a 7-68 running OK with a Midco EC however, and a Carlin EZ-Gas would work as well. But as you say, it is a 68..........

Frank who ever installed that burner did a hack of a job, they never bothered to even clean the boiler prior to the install. When I pulled the boiler apart it had about 4” of soot in the bottom and the pins were clogged. Smh

ChrisJ

Looks good, as always Dave.

STEAM DOCTOR

@Dave0176. Nice install as usual. You are one lucky man. Nice small boiler in nice big basement. I rarely have that much room to work. Keep up the sacred duty of keeping steam heating as glorious as it should be.

Steamhead

Dave0176 said:

Frank who ever installed that burner did a hack of a job, they never bothered to even clean the boiler prior to the install. When I pulled the boiler apart it had about 4” of soot in the bottom and the pins were clogged. Smh

Wonder if the oil company did it?

Dave0176

Chipping away, the A/C calls are still coming in so it’s taking a bit longer.

Snowmelt

out of curiosity how high did you go on your risers? do you just use a 18 or 24 inch nipple?

Dave0176

Snowmelt said:

out of curiosity how high did you go on your risers? do you just use a 18 or 24 inch nipple?

On this particular job, I cut the risers 24” then the union adds about 3” and the close nipples added another 2-3” approximately.

All I can say is nothing is standard, every job is unique. I look at everything first, take my measurements, then determine what I’m going to do. Low ceiling heights make it tough, but that’s the beauty in using a drop header.

Danny Scully

You need to invest in some manly hangers @Dave0176, band iron doesn’t cut it Great job as always.

STEAM DOCTOR

Would it be better to use a 2"-3/4" coupling for the boiler drain? This way, if it clogs up, you can just open the ball valve and stick something through to unplug.

AMservices

> @STEAM DOCTOR said:
> Would it be better to use a 2"-3/4" coupling for the boiler drain? This way, if it clogs up, you can just open the ball valve and stick something through to unplug.

He did use a ball valve. What I would recommend is turning the reducing 90 a 1/4 turn CW so dirt isn't sitting on the ball.
I've seen them jam and not open all the way when the valve is in a dirt pocket.

Great job!

STEAM DOCTOR

@AMservices. I know he used a ball valve. Just think that a reducer coupling would be better then a reducing elbow. No big deal. Cadillac of an installation.

Dave0176

Final pics finished, main vents are offset, just not in the pics.....

SteamDolt

Can't thank Dave enough for an excellent job!

I'd also like to thank all you guys on this forum for help/advise since I bought the house a year ago!

I'll still be around. Slightly less of a dolt now thanks to Dave, my steam book, and this forum.

I'm excited about my system.