Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
In fairness to all, we don't discuss pricing on the Wall. Thanks for your cooperation.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Peerless gas boiler and electrical issues

CathyS15CathyS15 Posts: 5Member
I have a boiler issue that I can't figure out. It's a fairly new peerless natural gas boiler. I like to try to figure things out and I have a stove to keep things warm so I attempted a repair after finding a dead transformer in the boiler. Got a new transformer and relay fan center and wired the new one the same way as the old one, matching the diagram. The problem now is the relay on the new part sounds like an assault rifle and still no heat! I tried checking all electrical connections and they seem ok.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Comments

  • unclejohnunclejohn Posts: 1,267Member
    There's a shot somewhere. Look for burned wires maybe,
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 4,360Member
    Is the "fan relay center" used as an isolation relay or does it run your pump?
  • newagedawnnewagedawn Posts: 543Member
    should not need a fan center just a 110 to 24 volt transformer, a fan center switches 110v power to a 110v blower fan or a burner and does not switch power to a 24v gas circuit , the 24 volt transformer powers everything in the circuit to the gas burner,.....replace it
    "The bitter taste of a poor install lasts far longer than the JOY of the lowest price"
  • lchmblchmb Posts: 2,798Member
    I would guess if the manufacturer put it there, they did so for a reason. I would check polarity on your wiring and verify they new fan center matches the old. It could be the post are in a different order and you need to match them back to sequence
  • CathyS15CathyS15 Posts: 5Member
    The fan center turns on the pump, I tried disconnecting it, no luck. It seems like an internal problem with something the air switch turns on. With com and NC jumped together, no noise, it seems like when the switch sends power to NC the noise starts. I tried unplugging everything in the boiler to see if another part is bad and no burnt wires, all connections seem ok. Im usually good with electrical stuff, but this is an odd one. I'm a single mom on a budget, can't afford to call a pro or fry the new part
  • SuperTechSuperTech Posts: 369Member
    I think on that boiler the fan center powers the circ, separate isolation relay powers the inducer. Pressure switch powers up a Honeywell smart valve....ugh. Maybe something is back feeding and causing the chattering?
  • ratioratio Posts: 1,509Member
    Check the connections again, and compare them to the schematic. Post a pic if you aren't familiar with the symbols.

    It sounds like you have the power that energizes the relay going through the contacts on the relay as well, so that as soon as it tries to turn on it turns itself off. That's the first thing I think of when I hear a relay that chatters as soon as power is applied.

  • the_donutthe_donut Posts: 366Member
    There is a reason why equipment fails early. Probably a short in one of the wires. Check for continuity between wires on a strand and to boiler ground.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 4,360Member
    Pictures of the wiring diagram, perhaps it is on the door back side. Pictures of your fan relay center. Pictures of any other components you can see......all would help.
  • CathyS15CathyS15 Posts: 5Member
    The fan center turns on the pump, I tried disconnecting it, no luck. It seems like an internal problem with something the air switch turns on. With com and NC jumped together, no noise, it seems like when the switch sends power to NC the noise starts. I tried unplugging everything in the boiler to see if another part is bad and no burnt wires, all connections seem ok. Im usually good with electrical stuff, but this is an odd one. I'm a single mom on a budget, can't afford to call a pro or fry the new part.

    I'm going to try to check if anything is shorted to ground, I haven't tried that yet.

    Thanks everyone for your feedback. This is a wonderful website!
  • ratioratio Posts: 1,509Member
    Still sounds like the coil is getting switched off when the relay contacts throw. Jumping com to NC maintains continuity even though the armature has moved and the contacts open. And I always feel like the layout of the terminals on a fan center are confusing.

    Any chance of getting pics?

  • ScottSecorScottSecor Posts: 148Member
    Sounds like it could be a bad stack damper (opens and closes every time the boiler cycles). Something caused the original transformer to fail, they rarely "wear out." If you have a probe style low water cutoff, this can also cause some similar issues.
  • SuperTechSuperTech Posts: 369Member
    If it's the Peerless boiler I'm thinking of with the smart valve it has the Honeywell R8258D 1026 fan center in it.
    I've seen my fair share of problems with that boiler, and sometimes the wiring does get a little tricky. I suppose I'm just used to solid state controls.
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Posts: 1,191Member
    > @newagedawn said:
    > should not need a fan center just a 110 to 24 volt transformer, a fan center switches 110v power to a 110v blower fan or a burner and does not switch power to a 24v gas circuit , the 24 volt transformer powers everything in the circuit to the gas burner,.....replace it

    Yes but no. Many manufacturers use(d) a fan center for the control circuit on some boilers. Powering G back from the thermostat instead of W to close a DPDT relay for line volt circulator and low volt burner circuit.
  • CathyS15CathyS15 Posts: 5Member
    No damper on my boiler, it uses the exhaust fan that the air switch hose goes to. No chimney. Just goes out of the wall on the side of my garage.

    I'm not sure what a smart valve is, but that is the part number for the fan center. My gas control valve has two plugs in it. One to the pilot and the other to the fan center. Doesn't seem to be anything smart about anything on this boiler. I was under the impression that it's a low end peerless boiler.

    Can't get pictures, but my model number is DE-04-SV WPC.

    I didn't get a chance to check anything else out with it today, too busy between work and kids! Tommorow I am determined to solve this problem, with the help of all the wonderful people here that have given me great advice.
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 3,942Member
    @CathyS15

    I pulled up the wiring diagram on the Peerless web site.

    1. Shut down the power to the boiler
    2. Disconnect the wire(s) from terminal 3 on the fan center
    3. restore power and make the thermostat call for heat.
    4. You should have power on terminal 3 of the fan center when the thermostat calls and no power when the thermostat opens. You should her the fan center relay open and close

    If this seems to work then track down the loads connected to the terminal 3 wire.
    1. circulator
    2. Power goes through the high limit control and splits
    A. Starts Fan
    B. pulls in isolation relay

    See if those parts seem to work.

    If you don't find anything replace the wiring to terminal 3. Disconnect the three wire on the pressure switch. Using an ohm meter you should have continuity between common and NC with the fan off and common and NO with the fan on.

    Maybe this will help you get started
  • CathyS15CathyS15 Posts: 5Member
    I got it figured out! Got a new air switch and installed it. Now everything works again. It's not very cold out, but I will sleep comfortably knowing that I fixed the boiler myself. I like the feeling of accomplishment, even if it took a couple of days.

    Thanks everyone!
  • nicholas bonham-carternicholas bonham-carter Posts: 7,166Member
    edited April 13
    Congratulations, you are one of the elite super-hydro-ladies who are occasionally on the site here, like Gwen, the “radiator ranger”, Erin, our site moderator, and others!—NBC
Sign In or Register to comment.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!