Big thanks and a few quick questions

Tim_9

First off, thanks to everyone here. Could not have done this without you guys. After reading through pages and pages of posts on this forum, I hopefully avoided the most common mistakes but if you see any I missed let me know. Still have to support the PVC condensate drain pipe, glue up and finalize the intake and exhaust vent and install the dial thermometers (they are just temped in there). Other than that though...I think she is good to go.

Big difference from the old CI boiler, use to short cycle like crazy. The mod con runs for hours at a time hovering around10-20% capacity. I am slab on grade in California so my RWT are in the mid 70's, so should be running pretty efficiently. I had a five gallon bucket under there before the condensate neutralizer arrived. It was fun watching it fill up, roughly 40,000 free BTU's per bucket

It is running great but I did have a few questions. Indoor temp is very stable, but one thing I am noticing is the boiler never reaches the ODR target temp? it's always 2-4 degrees below it. Runs for hours like this and like I said the boiler capacity is only around 10-20% so I know there is plenty of reserve boiler capacity available to reach the ODR target if it wanted. It is tracking the ODR curve, just always below it. Is this normal?

newagedawn

nice job

lchmb

sounds like it's running perfect. Nice job..;)

the_donut

Most boiler controls have a heating curve adjustment. If your indoor temps are rock solid and where you want them, then I'd leave it. If it is always low you can shift the curve up. Different manufacturers have different heating curve settings. What's your boiler model?

NY_Rob

Super install! Congrats.....

Don't sweat 2-4deg below setpoint... it's better that vs. overshooting.

Being that once you're within a couple of deg of setpoint the boiler modulates down to 10-20% it's probably due to the algorithm they use to control the boiler/prevent overshoot.

Tim_9

the_donut said:

Most boiler controls have a heating curve adjustment. If your indoor temps are rock solid and where you want them, then I'd leave it. If it is always low you can shift the curve up. Different manufacturers have different heating curve settings. What's your boiler model?

Indoor temps are rock solid so I agree...I'll just leave it alone. I just wondered. It's a Westinghouse WBRU 80W, essentially a rebadged HTP boiler.

NY_Rob said:

Super install! Congrats.....

Don't sweat 2-4deg below setpoint... it's better that vs. overshooting.

Being that once you're within a couple of deg of setpoint the boiler modulates down to 10-20% it's probably due to the algorithm they use to control the boiler/prevent overshoot.

Your right, could be due to the algorithm. I guess like @the_donut said, if its not broken then why... Also wanted to thank you personally as I avoided some issues specific to this model due to your posts. I was going to run the CH off the top and DHW off the bottom until you pointed out air entrapment could be an issue with this configuration. HTP should note this in their manual.

NY_Rob

^ glad it worked out for you!

In maybe 6 mo or so, have your installer come back in with his combustion analyzer. See if your readings have drifted away from the numbers you saw on commissioning.

Tim_9

Haven't had the combustion analysis done yet. Just got it up and running, a technician is scheduled for this next week.

Its a DIY install (remodel contractor though, so I am in the trades), which again couldn't have done without everyone's knowledge here.

NY_Rob

Great, then set it on low-fire via the DIP switches... let it stabilize for at least 5min, record the CO and CO2 and the gas pressure (in inches WC) static (without boiler running), during lightoff and when running on low and high fire. You'll need these reading to refer to in 6 months or so or if you have any issues.

It's an amazing boiler isn't it? When it's putting along at 8K BTU's output you need to look at the display for the flame icon to see if it's actually firing vs. just the circulator running. Sometimes I go down to the basement to check if it's running it's so quiet on low fire.


Your DIY install is something to be proud of!

EBEBRATT-Ed

Really nice job! Congrats. And no propress in site!

Tim_9

NY_Rob said:

Great, then set it on low-fire via the DIP switches... let it stabilize for at least 5min, record the CO and CO2 and the gas pressure (in inches WC) static (without boiler running), during lightoff and when running on low and high fire. You'll need these reading to refer to in 6 months or so or if you have any issues.

It's an amazing boiler isn't it? When it's putting along at 8K BTU's output you need to look at the display for the flame icon to see if it's actually firing vs. just the circulator running. Sometimes I go down to the basement to check if it's running it's so quiet on low fire.


Your DIY install is something to be proud of!

Appreciate the tips, i'll pass them on and of course will be looking over the technician's shoulder. Not because i don't trust him, just curious about the process.

It is an amazing boiler, so quiet on low fire. Our old CI boiler was power vented (loud) and unfortunately resided in the laundry room next to our bedroom. We can't even hear the mod con, not sure how we put up with the noise before but it was what it was and we didn't know any better.

I check on the boiler also, but not to see if it is running. I just really like watching it silently pump out those BTU's. Puts a smile on my face

Tim_9

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

Really nice job! Congrats. And no propress in site!

Thanks @EBEBRATT-Ed. No pro press but I am sure those cut the copper time in half.

Zman

WOW!!!!

Tim_9

Thanks @Zman , I learned from the best. Been looking over all of your shoulders for some time now.