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Honeywell AM-1 Series mixing valve 70-145F on Radiant Heating system
dougrock
Member Posts: 3
Hey guys, understand I'm ole' school, I understand the boilers people used to put in basement then build the house around it. Now we've got wall hung. What we have here is a Baxi(don't get one) wall hung it's almost 10yrs. It started screaming---squealing...no I'm not talking about pipes banging. A high pitch that can be heard through the walls... So I look and found the sound was coming from the zone 1 circulator ...but I was thinking it was how it was receiving water, not that it was bad...due to I could lesson the noise by closing a valve half way(not the mixing valve). There where 3 seperate rooms on this one zone all on the first floor. I tried the zone furthest from the mixing valve and it did not squeal but with the other two nearest the mixing valve it did, worse if both of those on at the same time. I wanted to investigate the mixing valve but was told to replace the circulator cuz that's where the noise was. Well, as dumbdumb I listened and the new circulator did NOT do the trick.
Ok, and remember I'm NOT into these systems. I went back to the mixing valve, I tapped it and played with the knob(yes I marked the setting it was at) I got the squealing down to not much with each room run seperate on zone one, zone 2 is upstairs has it's own circ and no mixing valve and works great, no noise. It's better but not when two rooms go back on. OK...so my thought is I want to replace the mixing valve. Not major, the mixing valve has the union on all 3 of the copper pipes going in, so that makes the mixing valve male threads on all 3 ports. I won't have to drain the whole system cuz the installer believed in shut offs....(I was that way too, maybe too much ;-) )
My question is this, the internet is selling all kinds and what I think should be in this system is not the one in it? What's in there is the gray knob 70-145F AM-1 Series threaded on all three ports. To me it's looking like the gray ones are more for DMW...and of course they need to be lead free...but the black knob is for "R" radiant but the temp setting are different??? Also from my mark on the gray handle...looks like this old one was set somewhere between 70 and 80F.
Also the gray one that is there does NOT have the guage on the outport... The installer didn't put one in cuz he's got the damn circulator not even 6" away from the mixing valve...???( think I would have done that different...but it worked this way for years???) So I ask... WITHOUT having to cut-solder-or what have you...what one can I put in that will have the same size treads on the ports with the correct Temp rating, plus will this resolve my issue? (also I'm guessing the mixing valve has all it's check valves...and the circ right next to it does as well...my brain fart is...that's alotta check valves with in 10" of pipe all near each other...and the Circ is Horz not Vert..so does one really need to have a check in the circ?) Yet again...it's worked for years before....no issues.
Any how......sorry for the long write up...thought details would be important...any help...grateful and thanks, Doug
Ok, and remember I'm NOT into these systems. I went back to the mixing valve, I tapped it and played with the knob(yes I marked the setting it was at) I got the squealing down to not much with each room run seperate on zone one, zone 2 is upstairs has it's own circ and no mixing valve and works great, no noise. It's better but not when two rooms go back on. OK...so my thought is I want to replace the mixing valve. Not major, the mixing valve has the union on all 3 of the copper pipes going in, so that makes the mixing valve male threads on all 3 ports. I won't have to drain the whole system cuz the installer believed in shut offs....(I was that way too, maybe too much ;-) )
My question is this, the internet is selling all kinds and what I think should be in this system is not the one in it? What's in there is the gray knob 70-145F AM-1 Series threaded on all three ports. To me it's looking like the gray ones are more for DMW...and of course they need to be lead free...but the black knob is for "R" radiant but the temp setting are different??? Also from my mark on the gray handle...looks like this old one was set somewhere between 70 and 80F.
Also the gray one that is there does NOT have the guage on the outport... The installer didn't put one in cuz he's got the damn circulator not even 6" away from the mixing valve...???( think I would have done that different...but it worked this way for years???) So I ask... WITHOUT having to cut-solder-or what have you...what one can I put in that will have the same size treads on the ports with the correct Temp rating, plus will this resolve my issue? (also I'm guessing the mixing valve has all it's check valves...and the circ right next to it does as well...my brain fart is...that's alotta check valves with in 10" of pipe all near each other...and the Circ is Horz not Vert..so does one really need to have a check in the circ?) Yet again...it's worked for years before....no issues.
Any how......sorry for the long write up...thought details would be important...any help...grateful and thanks, Doug
0
Comments
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The domestic one is simply the lead free version. It can be used on potable and hydronic.
I'm wondering if it has the correct Cv rating for the flow rate? Most people make the mistake of sizing them from pipe size instead Cv rating.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Ironman...... well aware of the lead free and that it would be used mostly in DHW...I'm not talking about DHW...only Radiant...that would not require lead free...the real problem here is "they" sell many different types for the "R" but the one on this system does not have that rating. Now ,,,sure,,, could... a lead free be used on this...but why spend the extra money when it's not needed.... As for CV rating, I have NO IDEA what the installer was thinking or doing...however the fact that the boiler did work for close to 10 yrs no problems till now.... At this time I just want to put back what's there, but new(and if so the right one?)...but the temps and model numbers have changed.....not finding a direct replacement of what was used. Any idea's? Now again like I said, I'm old-old school, not up to date on all this high tech plow hard stuff. I assisted a guy few years back with a Smith Boiler...more my kinda thing.....argo box with circ's instead of ZV's...LOVED IT! easy to follow directions for install.....showed distances...no mixing valves no extra BS.....just all common sense and very efficient ,no laptop or computer degree's needed! Old story...my 1965 dodge went to the store and got me beer....the 2015 bmw is still at the dealer with wires hooked up the to computer going beep beep ask the customer if he's got unlimited funds.0
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can you just get a rebuild cartridge for the one you have? The bodies do not usually wear outBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Hot rod you are right, found online a site that mentioned you can soak in vinegar...plus also replace inside parts. Thank you...
My thought is/was to replace whole with another one, then take the old one and rebuild for a spare on the shelf...I've done this before with other boiler items...paid off...New Years Eve, the only one and only fan gave out...main fan...no work...no heat...I was able to replace it with one I had rebuilt...till the world open their doors so I could buy a new one and start all over... ;-)
Ok guys, I'm gonna help you out! I found the answer I was looking for...I found that the old mixing valve I'm dealing with had alot of defects back then... then came the difficulty of finding what one would replace it....cuz Honeywell changed their product 3 TIMES!!! Including the damn numbers.....Here is what I was looking for guys.....thanks but I found......
https://forwardthinking.honeywell.com/related_links/water/am1_mixing_valve/sell/68-3103.pdf
I searched Honeywell for this before...but...it's not an easy find...it should be.....it's the tell all.....for sellers and buyers...... best to all......now let's see who sells for a fair price... SupplyHouse has them but they couldn't help me when I asked them what would work as a replacement...and obvious they did not know of the link I posted above.....shame...in the past they very helpful...and had links like this provided! Guys....thanks......stay safe...stay young and always have a spare black tank on your roof for hot water!0
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