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Modine Hot Dawg Heater ( Fault Code 6 ) can't find the problem.

bighogtoy
bighogtoy Member Posts: 3
Just installed a Hot dawg heater and can't get it to get it to stay on after it turns on , the heater goes through all of the sequence like its was intended to do but after 2 or 3 seconds after it fires it will turn of and goes through the same cycle for at least 4 more times before it gives me the code 6 , I have just about did all of the preliminary voltage checks and trouble shooting as well as replacing the fan control board and the flame rod , the pressure switch does work properly with a WC of .40 the gas valve has an output of 3.5 of WC to the manifold and the input of the gas valve is at 6.95 almost 7 WC of pressure, does anyone have any other suggestions or idea on what I am missing or over looking.
Thank you.

Comments

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 2,873
    What does the manual say for error code 6?
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 9,708
    sounds like it's not proving the flame and keeps trying. Can you check the flame signal?
  • Steve Minnich
    Steve Minnich Member Posts: 2,661
    Check for reversed polarity and/or a poor ground.
    Steve Minnich
    Minnich Hydronic Consulting & Design, LLC
    [email protected]
    HVACguyinME
  • lchmb
    lchmb Member Posts: 2,997
    had that many times...reversed polarity and that unit hate each other...
    ratio
  • bighogtoy
    bighogtoy Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for you'r reply and help but it's funny that you say that , that was one of the first things I checked according to one of the help sites from Modine hot dawg videos, I installed a clean A/C line my self directly from the box and yes I have swapped the polarity and did not made any difference so sad to say .
    I did notice when measuring the gas pressure on the input and the output of the valve for the small time that the unit stays on (not long) that the input pressure coming in to the main valve drops but the output pressure to the manifold stays steady at 3.5 WC , is that normal ? I have a feeling that the pressure coming in is the problem I think unless you have any other idea.
    Thank you.
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 2,873
    If the incoming pressure drops too low the gas valve won't be able to keep it's pressure up, many of the valves I've seen spec 4½-5 in wc minimum incoming pressure, but low pressure won't cause a lockout until the flames can't maintain adequate contact with the flame rod.

    The lockout code might give a hint about where to start looking... pressure switch? flame failure? open gas valve? inducer failure? low µA? All those codes I've seen before on different boards.

    I've had to call the factory before, too; especially the really odd failures.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 9,708
    edited January 2018
    If the inlet pressure drops below or close to what the outlet pressure is set for some regulators will "lock up" and not feed any gas and of course the regulator is part of the gas valve. The outlet should be 3.5" wc but you could try dropping that a little temporally to see if it will run.

    People tend to screw regulators in to get more gas but if it's not available at the inlet minus the pd of the valve you won't get it. You said above you had almost 7" is that with it lit or is that static pressure without running??
  • bighogtoy
    bighogtoy Member Posts: 3
    I get that Reading (almost 7" WC @ inlet ) when it fires, but I also noticed when is just about to turn off less then 4 seconds the flame like drops or say it gets a little deem then it goes off . I almost like to say that my problem here is low gas pressure coming in from the meter onto the house , ill try to lower the output pressure a bit like you say and see what happens . Ill try to take some images of the reading and Ill post them.
    Thank you.
    By the way sorry for the delay on responding back, getting pounded with snow here and is hard to keep up.