Nozzle question

ImYoungxD

My oil burner is CL3-140, 104000 BTU. I believe it is oversized for my house and the tuneup guy switched the original nozzle, 0.85 x 45B (Hago) to 0.65 x 70B (Delavan). I believe .65 is better suited but I question the angle.
The lower model, CL3-105 uses 0.65 X45B nozzles.

Is it ok to leave 70B as my nozzle?
It takes a long time to build up pressure and the boiler stayed on for like 2 hours with 0 PSI on the 0-30 and 0-3 gauge today (it's very cold today in the NE). No leaks, all vents are replaced, 1 main vent, no white smoke in chimney and I plan on insulating the pipes.

I had 1 issue with steam hammer due to sagged pipe and the new nozzle does the same but less hammering. I'm thinking about changing it to .65 X 45B if it's okay to do so

TIA

Jamie Hall

It might be. It might not be. You have to consider flame pattern in the combustion chamber.

That said, you absolutely cannot change the oil burner nozzle without performing a complete combustion tuneup and test with the proper instruments after you have changed the nozzle.

DZoro

That's a big change, hope combustion testing was performed correctly, check manufacturer nozzle requirements.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@ImYoungxD LOL here we go again. Don't worry about the steam pressure as long as your getting heat. Your better off if the boiler builds NO pressure.

That being said a 2 hour run time would seem excessive EXCEPT we were below design conditions in New England today.. Most design for 0 deg around here depending on where you are located it could be different.

What I would do is monitor your system and how it runs. Did the technician use combustion test equipment is the important thing???

I would check the burner manual to see what nozzle they recommend. He could bump it up 1 size to a .75 if your run time is too long

ImYoungxD

Thank you all
After finishing up the tune up, the technician looked at the flame with his eyes through the peephole. He did not use any combustion tester.

It was -10 to 10 degrees in NY last weekend hence a lot of oil was used. I'm also a new home owner so I don't know much about oil consumption with burners but I am learning.

Manual says to use .85 x 40B and the burner is oversized for my 1500 sqft house. It was short cycling and the new nozzle helped it go away.

New nozzle heats up house fine but 1st floor heats up slow due to bad insulation. My concern is the angle and boiler staying on after 2 hours and the pressure was 0 while all rads were hot though and vents worked fine (no hissing) but I guess the pressure at 0 is fine as long as I don't lose water.

Jamie Hall

ImYoungxD said:

...After finishing up the tune up, the technician looked at the flame with his eyes through the peephole. He did not use any combustion tester....

argh...

ImYoungxD said:

.... boiler staying on after 2 hours and the pressure was 0 while all rads were hot though and vents worked fine (no hissing) but I guess the pressure at 0 is fine as long as I don't lose water.

That's fine -- that's the ideal way it should work.

But. Get somebody out there to set the burner up properly. You can't do it by eye -- you have to use the combustion test instruments.

ImYoungxD

I will find someone who will look at the flame with the proper equipment. Also ask if the nozzle should be changed.

Thanks

STEVEusaPA

You should use the correct nozzle angle and spray pattern. I'd bet a proper combustion analysis will show you are making soot because you are impinging, or the burner has too much air (because you lowered the firing rate), and running inefficiently.
I doubt lowering the nozzle helped you that much with your short cycling, probably the brutally cold weather is helping you. When it gets a little warmer, you'll be back to short cycling.

Any changes to combustion-pumps, pump pressure, motors, draft adjustments, nozzles, etc., require a full combustion analysis...PERIOD. Anyone who looks at the flame and calls it good is not a professional, plain and simple.
Many modern furnaces/boilers, you can't even see the flame in the chamber.

unclejohn

Another thing to worry about is reduced stack temp may cause condensation in flue.