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Wiring Honeywell HZ311 from a Trol-A-Temp Mastertrol Mark VII

bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
edited November 2017 in Controls
Hello. I am looking to upgrade my control panel on my old furnace. I have a 3 zone Heat and AC furnace and my goal is to be able to upgrade some of my thermostats that currently don't work with the master set-up I have today.

My question is if I am replacing my entire control panel I have today with the Honeywell HZ311, or do they have to work together. I've provided some pictures as well for my existing set-up. I'm also confused as to my current set-up going into the HZ311.

My current setup just has red/white wires connecting into my mastertrol and then the color wires going into the selector switch marked 11 through 19. Not sure how that connects into the HZ311.

I should also mention my system has a master switch that is changed seasonal from Heat to Cool for the switch from my system providing heat to AC.

Thanks ahead of time for any help.


  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    Take a look at this thread.
  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks ratio. I looked over that thread and it made some points, but it wasn't clear on the exact wiring from what I understood. My wiring seems to be different from what was discussed in that thread. For instance, that I have red & white wiring into my different Y,G,R,W,A section as well as what to do with the wires connecting selector switch 11 - 19. Also wasn't clear if this was replacing the troll master completely or working with it. Sorry, definitely new to all of this.
  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    Ok. There's three main parts to these systems.
    1. Thermostats
    • It appears that you have enough conductors to use whatever thermostat you wish—but I am not sure if the current stats will be sufficient
  • Dampers
    • The Trol-A-Temp actuators can be used with the Honeywell panel
  • The furnace/AC control
    • If it heats & cools now, it will do it when we're done

    As an added benefit, the TrueZONE panel will do automatic changeover, so you won't have to switch the system from heat to cool any more.

    I'm having trouble finding a schematic for that model of controller. Perhaps the manual is laying around there? A few pics of the wiring diagrams would help immensely.
  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the help. I've attached 1 picture of the wiring schematic. There are a few other options. This is the schematic for Heating and Cooling, but there is also, Heating and Cooling Continuous Low Speed Blower schematic and Heating and Cooling twinning schematic.

  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    That's the schematic for the furnace. I'm hoping we can find one for the Trol-A-Temp. We should be able to figure it out without one, but it'll be a lot easier with.
  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    edited November 2017
    I can't find a manual, but have this description on the back of the panel for the trol-a-temp. Not sure if this helps. The system selector switch section 11 through 19 is where the seasonal master switch wiring is connected for heat or cool. Thanks again.
  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    Where does the wire that's landed on #1 & #2 go? Where does the wire that's wirenutted to the others (terminal G & W) go?

    The thermostats will be quick & easy, ahthough you might have to replace that 3 conductor that's landed on zone 3; and the zone dampers will be straightforward as well, but the furnace wiring itself is going to take some puzzling out.

  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    The #1 & #2 connect to a transformer that connects to the furnace power switch (picture attached). The additional wires (red & white) connected to the terminals (Y,G,R,A,W) are connected into the oil burner control - Honeywell R8184 M 1002 (picture attached).

  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    The two wires coming from the transformer will land on the TrueZONE "power" terminals, red to R and white to C. Identify the conductors that are landed on the old panel Y, G, R & A (they're jumpered together, we won't need the jumper any more), and W; and move them to the corresponding terminals on the "equipment" terminal strip on the TrueZONE. The R/A wire will land on the Rh or Rc terminal, either one, leave the factory jumper installed.

    The zone actuators should be rewired as noted here.

    The thermostats should be replaced with whatever you chose to use, wired like to like on the zone terminal strip. You'll need to replace the 3 conductor that's on zone 3, you'll need a minimum of 4, 5 if you don't want batteries. An option you might want to consider is RedLINK wireless, again details are in that other thread. (An internet gateway is available that will give you smartphone access)

    That should be everything, but note that there is some rework at the damper actuators themselves that might need to happen. There are extra wires going to the master stat, we won't need those any more, as the TrueZONE does automatic changeover. You are planning on replacing all the thermostats, right? I'd suggest something that provides an "auto" mode, so you don't have to change the mode of the stats every season.

  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    Hello. My zone 3 wire as the 5 wires as well, is there a reason I would need to have a wireless adapter? It might just look like three in the picture, but just looking to confirm. Also, what additional work might be needed on actuators? Thanks again for all of the help.
  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    No reason really. I prefer hardwired thermostats, not dependant on batteries, but sometimes wireless is the only way. If you've got 5 wires, you should be good.

    This shows how to wire the damper actuators to operate on a 3 wire system. Basically add a jumper at the actuator. I'm assuming that you have the MST actuators as illustrated in that PDF.

  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    Hello. The Y & G Wire has a white wire tied together between the two. What should I do with that wire? Leave them together or something different?

  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    Leave 'em tied together.
  • bap7635bap7635 Member Posts: 8
    Ratio....Thanks for all of the help. Everything is wired and working great.
  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,694
    Great, glad it's working for you, and thanks for the followup!
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