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The Case of the "InFloor" O-Ring

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I am keeping a 30-year-old Radiant floor heating system operating for the last 10 years. InFloor is the brand name. I have a part number 2224-28503 for the O-ring needed to put the manifold together. The manufacturer has no stock. they don't even have the O-ring specification. I need to replace about 6 O-rings to stop a leaking manifold. If I take it apart to measure the O-ring, I'm afraid that more O-rings will fail. I would like to have the O-rings before I take it apart.

Any suggestions?
Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,284
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    Nope. Though in my experience O-rings do degrade with time -- and the bad news is that those O-rings which haven't failed yet probably will... I'd be very inclined to pick a warmish day when your supply house is open and take the thing apart, measure a few of the O-rings, hustle out and stock up on them and put it back together! I might add that Grainger, for one, sells kits with an assortment of O-rings in them. Might be handy. For that matter, so does Tractor Supply!
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    EdTheHeaterManDan Foley
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,139
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    Hmmm, maybe it's time to replace the entire manifold?

    Sometimes you can find old inventory on places like e-bay, once you have a ring you could course of have more made.

    I assume you talked with Hi-Valley sales in CO?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    delta TEdTheHeaterMan
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,061
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    I had some of those manifolds, O ring replacement seemed to be not an option. The balancing knobs began to leak or stuck in place.
    I changed out the entire manifold. It took some transition fittings to connect pex to the PB tubing I have.
    Paul Polletsdelta TEdTheHeaterMan
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,656
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    these "In-Floor" manifolds are known for leakage. Usually PB tubing is attached without an O2 barrier. They should be replaced and the boiler checked for premature corrosion or O2 corrosion.
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • G Averill_2
    G Averill_2 Member Posts: 48
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    The old Infloor part number is 28503, which was for a package of these o'rings. I will look through the archives tonight to see if we have any left, and will advise tomorrow.
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • delta T
    delta T Member Posts: 884
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    After fighting an 'Infloor' system for 3 days, trying to get the leaks to stop, I ended up replacing all the manifolds. I had to eat that labor too, as I gave a bid for the work. I didn't know the reputation Infloor had at that point, and after that experience, I won't try repairs on them anymore. I would seriously recommend just replacing the manifolds altogether. It is less headache, less work, and the new ones should be trouble free for a long time assuming you get good manifolds.
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,061
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    The Infloor PB tubing with the oxygen barrier was called PBOX,
    What I have is 3/8" ID and it is red in color.

    Does this one your have include the 4-way mixing valve built into the pump assembly with the manifold attached or remote?
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,834
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    This has the pump built into the manifold. Grey PB tubing no O2 barrier so you need a non-ferrous boiler system. I made that mistake 15 years ago with a cast iron boiler. At the end of the first year of operation, the tubing was plugged with rust-colored mud. Took me weeks to blow out each line and get the water to flow again. (over 40 loops)

    Now I am removing the last of the built-in pumps. Some of the o-rings between the manifold sections started to leak after I reconnected the piping after removing the pump. I remember just changing out some o-rings several years ago when I replaced a pump. O-Rings are what I need to get this to stop leaking.
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,834
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    G Averill...
    If you find a package of o-rings or even just one left, I would love to have them (it) you can email me direct edtheheaterman@gmail.com
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,061
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    Ed, when you changed out the pumps what did you use for the water temp mixing valve?

    The red PBOX O2 barrier must work as I had a GV gold cast iron boiler for about 20 years before changing to SS Mod Con.
    The CI showed little rust and no sludge.

    The original package was very compact and handy:
    Pump with relay
    4 way mixing valve (never dead head system pump)
    electronic temp read out
    Tstat would start pump
    end switch would start boiler/ system pump

    But after 20 years it is starting to have problems of which you are aware of. I have changed 2 out of 3 manifolds. 3 Pumps still OK. 1 read out mix valve died.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,834
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    Jughne
    I used a Sparco AM101 union mixing valve and gave all circulators the same temp water. There are room thermostats that will shut off each zone pump. Not the most sophisticated but the customer is fine with the results.
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics