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The Case of the "InFloor" O-Ring
EdTheHeaterMan
Member Posts: 9,147
I am keeping a 30-year-old Radiant floor heating system operating for the last 10 years. InFloor is the brand name. I have a part number 2224-28503 for the O-ring needed to put the manifold together. The manufacturer has no stock. they don't even have the O-ring specification. I need to replace about 6 O-rings to stop a leaking manifold. If I take it apart to measure the O-ring, I'm afraid that more O-rings will fail. I would like to have the O-rings before I take it apart.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Comments
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Nope. Though in my experience O-rings do degrade with time -- and the bad news is that those O-rings which haven't failed yet probably will... I'd be very inclined to pick a warmish day when your supply house is open and take the thing apart, measure a few of the O-rings, hustle out and stock up on them and put it back together! I might add that Grainger, for one, sells kits with an assortment of O-rings in them. Might be handy. For that matter, so does Tractor Supply!Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England2 -
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After fighting an 'Infloor' system for 3 days, trying to get the leaks to stop, I ended up replacing all the manifolds. I had to eat that labor too, as I gave a bid for the work. I didn't know the reputation Infloor had at that point, and after that experience, I won't try repairs on them anymore. I would seriously recommend just replacing the manifolds altogether. It is less headache, less work, and the new ones should be trouble free for a long time assuming you get good manifolds.1
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This has the pump built into the manifold. Grey PB tubing no O2 barrier so you need a non-ferrous boiler system. I made that mistake 15 years ago with a cast iron boiler. At the end of the first year of operation, the tubing was plugged with rust-colored mud. Took me weeks to blow out each line and get the water to flow again. (over 40 loops)
Now I am removing the last of the built-in pumps. Some of the o-rings between the manifold sections started to leak after I reconnected the piping after removing the pump. I remember just changing out some o-rings several years ago when I replaced a pump. O-Rings are what I need to get this to stop leaking.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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G Averill...
If you find a package of o-rings or even just one left, I would love to have them (it) you can email me direct edtheheaterman@gmail.comEdward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Ed, when you changed out the pumps what did you use for the water temp mixing valve?
The red PBOX O2 barrier must work as I had a GV gold cast iron boiler for about 20 years before changing to SS Mod Con.
The CI showed little rust and no sludge.
The original package was very compact and handy:
Pump with relay
4 way mixing valve (never dead head system pump)
electronic temp read out
Tstat would start pump
end switch would start boiler/ system pump
But after 20 years it is starting to have problems of which you are aware of. I have changed 2 out of 3 manifolds. 3 Pumps still OK. 1 read out mix valve died.
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Jughne
I used a Sparco AM101 union mixing valve and gave all circulators the same temp water. There are room thermostats that will shut off each zone pump. Not the most sophisticated but the customer is fine with the results.Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
0
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