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Toe-Kick Issues

danielha
danielha Member Posts: 18
I've got an old 1920s boiler/radiator system that at some point had a Myson Whispa 9000 toe-kick added in where a cast iron rad used to be. The toe-kick seems to get no consistent flow, and so the area it's supposed to be heating is pretty cold. I've researched this some and it seems like I either should have it on it's own loop (expensive and a pain) or perhaps put in a diverter tee on the main where it branches off. Does that seem correct? Any other suggestions on how to improve this set up? I'm going to be covering all these pipes up soon so I want to make sure all issues are sorted out before then.

Below are pictures of the branch. It's a 1.5" steel main I believe.

Thanks!





Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,248
    What type of radiation does the other set of pipes connect to?
    In the second picture.
  • danielha
    danielha Member Posts: 18
    Everything else in the system is giant iron radiators. Most of the ones on this loop have TRVs because the system is way over powered. It was designed for use with all windows open originally.
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,462
    The pressure drop through the CI radiators is pretty low. Lots of room to more through them freely.
    The same CANT be said for the kick space heater.
    Even w/ a diverter tee (or 2) the flow will not want to go through there.
    One option would be to work in a small circulator that will force the water through there... say a taco or grundfos on low speed. Wire it to come on at the same time as the system circulator.
    danielhaZman
  • danielha
    danielha Member Posts: 18
    Would it make sense to branch it off closer to the boiler and do a straight shot or something with pex-al-pex and keep the pump closer to the other equipment? In also considering replacing all that existing steel main line but haven't thought it through completely. I want to get the ceiling height up another 8 inches if it's at all possible.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,255
    Weather you repipe or not a circulator as @kcopp mentioned is the sure fix
  • danielha
    danielha Member Posts: 18
    What about leaving a circulator that just runs 24/7 on that branch? The myson has its own thermostat to turn the fan on and off and I could switch off the pump in the summer. Would I be risking condensation issues?
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,462
    You don't need to do that. Have the system circ run off the same relay that the circ to the kick will run.... simple.
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Question, how do know it has no flow, or is it the case you have no heat off of the kicker? How is the fan wired to come on, if it's on temp alone and you have a old gravity high capacity system you may need a lower rated temp switch...All that said the install off the main is not by specs, chances are a separate zone would be the best bet....and pipe it, in series...
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,255
    Install circulator and install a strap on aquastat on the pipe to turn the circ on when the pipe gets hot. Leave the fan in the toe kick wired the way it is
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,314
    I'd ditch the toe-kick and put in a radiator.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    kcopp
  • danielha
    danielha Member Posts: 18
    That'd be ideal but there's no space at all...it's a large kitchen with all wall space taken by cabinets.
  • danielha
    danielha Member Posts: 18
    edited October 2017
    So should I just splice the pump into the return line and wire it up? Seems relatively simple and I can add an aquastat later if needed. Seems like 1/40 HP Taco is the smallest available
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,255
    That should work
    danielha